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Old 11th May 2010, 12:10 AM   #1
phrarod is offline phrarod  United States
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Default Any electricians on the board?

I'm trying to get the AC receptacles in the living properly grounded. This building is an old 1940s two conductor type wiring ie line/neutral. I put in a three conductor receptacle years ago and grounded the ground to the metal receptacle box which probably isn't the best ground. I went around the building and the grounds are pretty sorry.

If there's someone on the board I'll upload the photos and would appreciate your advice.
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Old 11th May 2010, 12:52 AM   #2
airboss is offline airboss  United States
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Location: Reno, NV
Quote:
Originally Posted by phrarod View Post
I'm trying to get the AC receptacles in the living properly grounded. This building is an old 1940s two conductor type wiring ie line/neutral. I put in a three conductor receptacle years ago and grounded the ground to the metal receptacle box which probably isn't the best ground. I went around the building and the grounds are pretty sorry.

If there's someone on the board I'll upload the photos and would appreciate your advice.
Even in the forties it was required that a metal box have a ground wire attached to it by a screw connection.

The best way to determine the quality of the ground is to use a milliohmeter and stretch a wire from that receptacle, out the window around the house to the grounding electrode for the house. There are a variety of ways to provide the grounding electrode for a resisdence. #1 A metal water pipe entering the premisis from the street. If any portion of it is plastic the connection to the main ground at the service must be from a minimum length of twenty feet of iron or copper buried in the ground. #2 Most residences don't have structural steel but that's next. #3 A ground ring composed of a copper wire ring (I don't know the diameter anymore) buried in the ground. #4 a ground rod.

So first determine what the test wire measures in ohms. Then test continuity of ground from the receptical box to that grounding electrode. If it's not there, then for a grounding receptacle you must provide one. I'd run a #12 wire under the house, stapled against the floor joists all the way back to the main panel ground or neutral buss.

Happy crawling!
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Old 11th May 2010, 12:59 AM   #3
phrarod is offline phrarod  United States
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Hi Danny.

That's a lot of wire from the outlet to the mains. Will my DMM be able to do that?

If you look at the pictures the crazy thing is if you see at where the mains ground connects to that water pipe its all painted and corroded. I can't imagine it making a good ground. Apparently the cable tv people felt the same and ran line to the top conduit from the street coming into the mains. As shown in the picture. Trouble is that same grounding go back to that shoddy water pipe coupling. That water pipe continues under the building and then is coupled with a sewer pipe. I could ground under the house where the copper pipe is right? Seems like it would make a better connection. Otherwise I would use the same place as the cable TV people grounded theirs. That conduit above the mains power doesn't carry any voltage though. Its shouldn't I wouldn't imagine.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Mains-box.jpg (57.4 KB, 123 views)
File Type: jpg mains-termination-ground.jpg (39.2 KB, 123 views)
File Type: jpg TEL-ground.jpg (58.6 KB, 123 views)
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Old 11th May 2010, 01:46 AM   #4
jfitz57 is offline jfitz57  United States
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Hi phrarod

I'm not an electrician but I have worked with up to 460 volts 3 phase stuff. As Danny Hall said they have been using 3 wires since the forty's.
I grew up in a place that had non-polarized two wire outlets but there was 3 wires going into the metal box. If you wanted put in a 3 wire outlet you just do it and you are good. The frame of the 3 wire outlet is connected to its ground. Nuetral and ground are connected at the fuse box/circuit breaker panel. I don't see how the quality of the ground makes any difference.

Jim
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Old 11th May 2010, 01:56 AM   #5
airboss is offline airboss  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phrarod View Post
Hi Danny.

That's a lot of wire from the outlet to the mains. Will my DMM be able to do that?

If you look at the pictures the crazy thing is if you see at where the mains ground connects to that water pipe its all painted and corroded. I can't imagine it making a good ground. Apparently the cable tv people felt the same and ran line to the top conduit from the street coming into the mains. As shown in the picture. Trouble is that same grounding go back to that shoddy water pipe coupling. That water pipe continues under the building and then is coupled with a sewer pipe. I could ground under the house where the copper pipe is right? Seems like it would make a better connection. Otherwise I would use the same place as the cable TV people grounded theirs. That conduit above the mains power doesn't carry any voltage though. Its shouldn't I wouldn't imagine.
Turn off the main when convenient (very important! Some services don't carry a grounding conductor from the pole to the service. You could get between some nasty current if you leave stuff in the house on) and take all that stuff apart and wire brush the heck out of it, replace old copper plumbers tape type connectors with cast bronze available from the big orange box. If you are using the street entrance water pipe, I would use a suplimental ground rod at the service entrance. The underground pipe is probably corroded by now. A ground rod never requires bigger than #6 solid wire connection because that's all the energy the ground rod can dissipate. So tie it in at the panel. Your panel probably uses the same buss for both white and bare copper wire. As long as you are in there, add a ground only buss and scratch off the paint and attach it to the panel. Run the ground rod grounding electrode conductor to that buss as well as the water pipe ground. Someplace between the service entrance and the first disconnecting means the neutral and the grounding electrode conductor are tied together. That's the most important connection in the house. In the USA anyway. In Europe they have a ground but I can't imagine why, both legs float from ground I think.......maybe they are grounding one in UK now. I forget. Some European backwaters like (never mind) may still have floating services. They carry the ground for RF shielding but not for short circuit protection.

Most US engineers P&M about the lack of a grounded conductor but theory wise it works just fine. I shouldn't be so disparaging, there are good arguments for both situations. Especially the European standard 234 volts. Much more efficient.

So clean it all up, add a supplimental ground, change to a separate ground buss in the panel, and run a wire from it (strung daisy chain, that's the way it was done up until about 67 or 68) to every metal box in the house. Watch out for Black Widow spiders. Leave all that sewer pipe grounding in place. Porcelain doesn't conduct very well, even full of dirty water. And don't hold on to your old ungrounded appliances while sitting on the stool.

Yes your DMM on low range will work.

Last edited by airboss; 11th May 2010 at 02:05 AM.
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Old 11th May 2010, 03:24 AM   #6
phrarod is offline phrarod  United States
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Great info!! I would love to do all of it. If it were my house. Sadly its an apartment with 8 units. No where to sink a ground rod because its all cement. Again if my place I would just drill through the cement. So I can only either figure out the best place for ground for my receptacle OR I could drive a ground rod near our living room (small patch of dirt) but that would mean the ground rod would be very far away from the mains box which I read is not the best idea.

If I turn the mains off even to clean it up I would have to get approval and I don't know how cool the landlord would be about plus have to alert everyone in the building (not friendly people especially).
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Old 11th May 2010, 03:25 AM   #7
phrarod is offline phrarod  United States
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jfit: I'm getting some hum and want to do the best I can at getting a good AC & ground.
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Old 11th May 2010, 04:07 AM   #8
jfitz57 is offline jfitz57  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phrarod View Post
jfit: I'm getting some hum and want to do the best I can at getting a good AC & ground.
If everything is pluggeed into the same outlet then the ground don't matter.
If it's not then do that. If you still have hum the probem isn't the ground.

Jpm
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Old 11th May 2010, 05:00 AM   #9
jfitz57 is offline jfitz57  United States
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I gues I'll go back to 2 stroke motorcycle drag racing vid's now.

Jim
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Old 11th May 2010, 06:32 PM   #10
airboss is offline airboss  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phrarod View Post
Great info!! I would love to do all of it. If it were my house. Sadly its an apartment with 8 units. No where to sink a ground rod because its all cement. Again if my place I would just drill through the cement. So I can only either figure out the best place for ground for my receptacle OR I could drive a ground rod near our living room (small patch of dirt) but that would mean the ground rod would be very far away from the mains box which I read is not the best idea.

If I turn the mains off even to clean it up I would have to get approval and I don't know how cool the landlord would be about plus have to alert everyone in the building (not friendly people especially).
Ok, well at very least, do the ground test with the dmm. If you've got about 2 ohms or less on the box (subtracting your lead right?) you're good to go. If not, attach at the telephone location on the service riser. The service ground is bonded behind the meter socket. It's good.
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