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Old 15th March 2009, 07:40 PM   #1
vodz is offline vodz  United Kingdom
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Angry TEAC VRDS-T1 Laser replacement HELP NEEDED!!

Hello i have a new laser for my cd transport because mine is skipin. I want to try and fit the laser myself but need a bit of help or guidence. Can anyone please help me? Many thanks in advance!
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Old 3rd April 2011, 02:31 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vodz View Post
Hello i have a new laser for my cd transport because mine is skipin. I want to try and fit the laser myself but need a bit of help or guidence. Can anyone please help me? Many thanks in advance!

Comment to an old thread like me getting old

You need a scope and a service manual to adjust the 6 adjusters

Got schematic but no input on adjusting what so ever .

Bring it to a local audio shop they can handle it

Laser Replacement VRDS 10
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Last edited by dutchaudio; 3rd April 2011 at 02:37 AM. Reason: add
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Old 3rd April 2011, 04:20 AM   #3
anatech is offline anatech  Canada
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Hi dutchaudio,
The alignment is very basic for those who know what they are doing. however, from what I have observed over many years, the "local audio shop" may botch the job completely. For a Teac, take it to the distributor for service.

The Sony KSS-151A was a really nice head / transport. One of my favorites in new mechanisms. There are a few gottchas even in the mechanical process of replacing the head. For one, the wiper that connects to an open slide pot (for position information) is easily damaged. I could go on, but there isn't time. The manual is certainly a must here as well.

Some of those earlier machines are as good or better than the new ones. It's worth fixing and keeping them.

-Chris
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Old 3rd April 2011, 04:55 AM   #4
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Hey thanks 4 reply to the old thread
Here i am today

Teac vrds 10 SE - Dutchamps

So i have 2 teacs here now the vrds10 and the 10se

Im bussy to setup the tentlabs clock into the 10se .... but i need to get to Guido for examen the thing
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Old 3rd April 2011, 09:15 PM   #5
anatech is offline anatech  Canada
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Hi dutchaudio,
Please read this thread. It's a short one so far, but I think it will be very useful for you.

The entire clock question really should be examined from the viewpoint of how a crystal oscillator behaves and what real effects it has on a CD player or DAC. If you want to sell a GPS discipled clock, I know where to send you. These oscillators are superior to almost anything else (Stratum II or III). Jitter and frequency accuracy down to 10 -11 or better. If it's that important to you, you can blow away all other "improved clocks". Don't waste anyone's money on a better clock until you've studied the subject some and get to the kernel of what really does matter.

Short term stability with low jitter is all that is required. Any half decent crystal oscillator will achieve this easily. The power supply is only a concern if it's got nasties on it. That, you can check for, and an aux supply for the osc circuit is dead easy to make. No magic involved at all.

-Chris
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Old 3rd April 2011, 09:44 PM   #6
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my concern is jitter in audioble part.
Secondly i have seen the pcb board of the tentclock it was yesterday in my hands.
Build it in but need more info from Guido, and this week i drive to eindhoven to let him take a look into my teac.

Low jitter clocks stands with a dyhard pcb, if you take power from a part of the teac ....it will probely making a bad jitter ..... i bet it ads even more jitter.
All prints are drilled into the bottom of the teac

Ahh oke also a nice psu with it
EZ Ultimate Clock System is nearly the same price if you let it come over from china
I`ll stay with a formiliar desine from Guido ... hes made some impression in the dutch audio world

But thanks for the link .....
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Last edited by dutchaudio; 3rd April 2011 at 09:52 PM.
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Old 3rd April 2011, 11:29 PM   #7
anatech is offline anatech  Canada
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Hi dutchaudio,
Well, you could always lock a PLL to the clock and monitor the tuning loop. There's your jitter - exposed. From there, look for common signals on the PCB and power supply. That will lead you to the source.

A controlled oven along with a DC frequency control loop tends to be extremely stable. Even just oven controlled and not locked to anything. The best any other manufacturer can do is to equal this performance.

BTW, really large caps in a power supply tend to create spikes. I'm not looking at what appears to be a well designed power supply there. Sorry, no offense.

-Chris
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Old 4th April 2011, 11:48 PM   #8
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the psu is only the cap you see on the board
And guido knows what hes doing, well comming saturday im off to Eindhoven to meet him, to sort out what is done wrong ... by me

And in the evening to Roger Waters in Arnhem live preforming "another flesh part from the wall" realy looking forward to it

Highend audio is notting like Live music is being played
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