Metal "veneer" for sub box
Hi folks,
I am wrapping up the design of a 'Cerberus' clone for my computer/music stereo and have come to the finishing stage. Attempting to be different, I'd like to cover the middle portion of the box in some thin sheet metal to offset the black ends where the driver/port and amp are.
The finished box would look like this...
Has anyone done this before? I will continue searching but haven't found the right combination of terms yet to describe this type of 'finish'. I think some 24 or 30 gauge metal would be thin enough to be bent and secured properly. Insuring the edges don't peel up might be a problem if the sheet is too thin or isn't glued well...
Thoughts?
Cheers,
Marty
Hi folks,
I am wrapping up the design of a 'Cerberus' clone for my computer/music stereo and have come to the finishing stage. Attempting to be different, I'd like to cover the middle portion of the box in some thin sheet metal to offset the black ends where the driver/port and amp are.
The finished box would look like this...
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Has anyone done this before? I will continue searching but haven't found the right combination of terms yet to describe this type of 'finish'. I think some 24 or 30 gauge metal would be thin enough to be bent and secured properly. Insuring the edges don't peel up might be a problem if the sheet is too thin or isn't glued well...
Thoughts?
Cheers,
Marty
Cool!
Some aluminum HVAC from the local hardware store and you can attach it with either screws on the bottom or contact cement (make sure what you get is OK on aluminum. Last time I was in a hardware store, they had 15 different contact cements, each for a different material!
)
The style was common on 80's Japanese stuff, dunno the name of the technique.
Cheers!
Some aluminum HVAC from the local hardware store and you can attach it with either screws on the bottom or contact cement (make sure what you get is OK on aluminum. Last time I was in a hardware store, they had 15 different contact cements, each for a different material!
)The style was common on 80's Japanese stuff, dunno the name of the technique.
Cheers!
Copper veneers
Hi Marty,
Go to Veneersales.com and have a look at the copper veneers on sale. Joe is great to deal with and will help with advice. The Copper is dead easy to useand apply. I vacuum bag it for added adhesion, although a metal roller is every bit as good, just takes a bit more time.
The samples are worth buying as they are useful sizes. The bamboo is an incredible looking copper veneer.
Cheers,
Peter.
Hi Marty,
Go to Veneersales.com and have a look at the copper veneers on sale. Joe is great to deal with and will help with advice. The Copper is dead easy to useand apply. I vacuum bag it for added adhesion, although a metal roller is every bit as good, just takes a bit more time.
The samples are worth buying as they are useful sizes. The bamboo is an incredible looking copper veneer.
Cheers,
Peter.
They make "formica" (counter top laminate) that has metallic look.
Use that.
Don't use real metal.
Real metal dings very easily, and can not be repaired.
I did real aluminum on a speaker or two in 1974... also the aluminum will dull if not anodized...over time. And it will show fingerprints. You can lacquer, but that has its issues too, since you have to lacquer the entire cabinet at the same time if you do that... masking isn't entirely satisfactory.
Ymmv.
_-_-bear
Use that.
Don't use real metal.
Real metal dings very easily, and can not be repaired.
I did real aluminum on a speaker or two in 1974... also the aluminum will dull if not anodized...over time. And it will show fingerprints. You can lacquer, but that has its issues too, since you have to lacquer the entire cabinet at the same time if you do that... masking isn't entirely satisfactory.
Ymmv.
_-_-bear
MNK's illustration shows round-overs on the edges, though: this would require post-forming veneer (thin and flexible), and if this is an illustration of the actual radius MNK is considering, it looks pretty marginal to me. My experience (which is limited) is that the can of pop is about as tight a radius as you want to try bending post-forming veneer around.
[edit]This isn't meant to be an argument against bear's main point - I'd go with plastic laminates where possible myself.[/edit]
Regards.
Aengus
You can bend plastic laminate into a pretty tight radius, but it's not easy and requires yoy to heat it up along the bend (take a look at the backsplash on laminated kitchen countertops.).
You might be able to call a local cabinet shop and ask some questions. I used to do design work for a cabinet shop and we did stuff with metal and plastic laminate. They might be able to help you out with adhesive selection and maybe even some pointers.
You might be able to call a local cabinet shop and ask some questions. I used to do design work for a cabinet shop and we did stuff with metal and plastic laminate. They might be able to help you out with adhesive selection and maybe even some pointers.
Thanks for all the responses!
The rounded edges aren't particularly important, this was just one of many iterations on the design that I found eye pleasing. It does look pretty sharp (no pun intended) with straight edges on the metal and round-overs on the front and back edges.
I'm going to follow up on a couple leads for Formica laminate in 'brushed aluminum' and similar designs. Hopefully someone will feel like cutting me a 12" by 24" piece or even cutting it into the rough final dimensions.
Thanks again,
Marty
The rounded edges aren't particularly important, this was just one of many iterations on the design that I found eye pleasing. It does look pretty sharp (no pun intended) with straight edges on the metal and round-overs on the front and back edges.
I'm going to follow up on a couple leads for Formica laminate in 'brushed aluminum' and similar designs. Hopefully someone will feel like cutting me a 12" by 24" piece or even cutting it into the rough final dimensions.
Thanks again,
Marty
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