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#1 |
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Audio Junkie
diyAudio Member
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So my latest two acquisitions look great on the outside. but the insides show that they were once upon a time stored in a very damp environment!
The aluminum parts look fine. but anything made from steel has rusted. Most of the screws i will just replace but there are some brackets that have rusted that will need to be cleaned/sanded/sandblasted etc. But some stuff like control shafts, springs, small metal parts that i cant replace or sand will need to somehow be cleaned. and the backs of some of the controls have a heavy white powdery corrosion on them. I will have to take them apart and see if the insides of the controls are any good. but if they are. i will then need to clean the corrosion off. most of it can just be scraped but if i can wipe or soak the metal parts in something instead that would be better as it wont scratch the metal parts. Even the solder corroded in places. I'm hoping i can save these. Any suggestions??? Zc |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Anonymityville
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Here is a DIY for electrolysis rust removal.....
http://antique-engines.com/electrol.asp There's this stuff called "navel jelly" that is used to chemically remove rust. I believe it's just some form of jelled phosphoric acid.
__________________
"If you don't like funerals don't kick sand in Ninja's face." - Ninja |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
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Auto parts stores sale rust remover. It works really good. I have used auto zone part number EVR032010
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#4 |
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Audio Junkie
diyAudio Member
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I have used naval Jelly years and years ago on car rust. Never thought to use that stuff but that just might work for the metal brackets and what not. I will have to read up online on the use of that stuff. I wonder how you stop the reaction once all the rust is gone?
Also, any tips for preserving or sealing the metal once i have it cleaned to help keep it nice once done?? Thanks for the article link, i will read that. Zc |
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