Hey!
I have really stupid question.
I bought an active subwoofer amp and i changed the enclousure. But i lost the fuse.
Now, amp in this: http://www.mds.se/?Link=http://www.mds.se/products/caraudio_twocolumns.asp?ItemId=24123
Sorry for sweden, but the english version doen`t work...
Can anyone tell, what fuse i shoud use?
A nother silli question: the power cable contains 3 wires: blue (neutral), brown (phase) and green(earth). With wich wire i have to connect fuse?
I have really stupid question.
I bought an active subwoofer amp and i changed the enclousure. But i lost the fuse.
Now, amp in this: http://www.mds.se/?Link=http://www.mds.se/products/caraudio_twocolumns.asp?ItemId=24123
Sorry for sweden, but the english version doen`t work...
Can anyone tell, what fuse i shoud use?
A nother silli question: the power cable contains 3 wires: blue (neutral), brown (phase) and green(earth). With wich wire i have to connect fuse?
Yes. It says both on this enclosure. Fuse value is given in triangle. Is that what you're looking for?:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Duh, if this amp has an earth wire, it is a Class-1 apparatus. And it is, because it also lacks the double boxed sign for Class-2 apparatus. In that case it should have 2 mains fuses: One in the Line wire and one in the Neutral wire. Otherwise it does not comply to CE regulations. And it MUST be connected to an earthed mains socket for safety.
Also the rating and kind of the fuse should be marked clearly on the amp itself. I strongly doubt if this amp is checked/tested for CE compliance and if the CE sign is valid.
But the answer to your question: 1.6A slo acting should be fine in this case.
Also the rating and kind of the fuse should be marked clearly on the amp itself. I strongly doubt if this amp is checked/tested for CE compliance and if the CE sign is valid.
But the answer to your question: 1.6A slo acting should be fine in this case.
Since when did CE require double pole fusing?
The fuse goes in the phase conductor, never the neutral.
Now it might be that there is some local standard in countries with non polarised plugs that requires double pole fusing, but nothing in the half dozen or so EU wide standards implied by being CE marked does (At least not for standard stuff - there may be something special in for some obscure edge cases (medical electronics??)). .
Regards, Dan.
The fuse goes in the phase conductor, never the neutral.
Now it might be that there is some local standard in countries with non polarised plugs that requires double pole fusing, but nothing in the half dozen or so EU wide standards implied by being CE marked does (At least not for standard stuff - there may be something special in for some obscure edge cases (medical electronics??)). .
Regards, Dan.
Thanks.
I`m sure, that this amp came out from the factory with only one fuse. Lets keep it sipmle.
So you say, that brown (phase) wire shoud have fuse..
I have an small diy amp, wich i bought from one of my old friend. It came with 2-core power cable (blue and brown) and it has fuse on the blue one. Why is that so?
Why this aps problem came up.
I had it playing for few weeks, but one moment tiny blast and light effect took place. Consequence was short circuit (not sure if it is the right termin) in house electric system and whole house was dark.
And blue wire (neutral) broke from its soldering place and overheating marks were on it.
Is it possible that the reason was just wrong fuse? (used one old one)
I`m sure, that this amp came out from the factory with only one fuse. Lets keep it sipmle.
So you say, that brown (phase) wire shoud have fuse..
I have an small diy amp, wich i bought from one of my old friend. It came with 2-core power cable (blue and brown) and it has fuse on the blue one. Why is that so?
Why this aps problem came up.
I had it playing for few weeks, but one moment tiny blast and light effect took place. Consequence was short circuit (not sure if it is the right termin) in house electric system and whole house was dark.
And blue wire (neutral) broke from its soldering place and overheating marks were on it.
Is it possible that the reason was just wrong fuse? (used one old one)
dmills said:
The fuse should protect the customer/user in case of overload and malfunction of the apparatus, i.e. for fire and hazardous voltages.
In many EU countries you can plug-in the mains plug 2-ways. That requires fuses in both lines for Class-1 apparatus. Since CE compliance applies to all EU countries it requires 2 fuses to comply with CE.
Coastredwood gave a good example where it went wrong: The fuse of the amp should have gone, not the fuse of the house.
Cheers
Hi Coastredwood,
Probably because it was connected to live without any fuse and there was a short to ground somewhere. Even a wrong fuse, say a 10A one, should have tripped before the house fuse.
I strongly recommend to find the cause of the short. But because of your questions here, let have a look at it by an experienced guy in this matter. Safety is not something to play around with.
Probably because it was connected to live without any fuse and there was a short to ground somewhere. Even a wrong fuse, say a 10A one, should have tripped before the house fuse.
I strongly recommend to find the cause of the short. But because of your questions here, let have a look at it by an experienced guy in this matter. Safety is not something to play around with.
Pjotr said:Hi Coastredwood,
Probably because it was connected to live without any fuse and there was a short to ground somewhere. Even a wrong fuse, say a 10A one, should have tripped before the house fuse.
I strongly recommend to find the cause of the short. But because of your questions here, let have a look at it by an experienced guy in this matter. Safety is not something to play around with.
Finding professional who coud fix it in 30 minutes is good idea.
Alltough connectind a power cable to transformer and chase, and adding fuse is not rocket sience.
But yes, they say, electricity kills just once.
Pjotr said:
I cannot find anything in the Low Voltage Directive requiring double pole fusing and there is nothing in the UK implementation of this needing it.
For class 1 equipment, is it actually the case that any of the common EC connectors are nonpolarised?
The CEE 7-7 (Schuko, France, Germany and others) is polarised (Two different ways depending on the country), as is the BS1363A (UK 13A). In fact on a cursory look, the only EU country I can find using non polarised plugs for class one appliances is Italy.
I can only assume that the Italians require some other means of protection (RCD?).
I suspect that if you look at the vast majority of recent CE marked kit sold in the EU, you will find only one mains fuse.
I have had several items submitted to test houses for CE, and have never even heard of a problem with single pole fusing.
Regards, Dan.
no! 
German mains plugs are not polarised and you don't need two fuses here.
It doesn't matter, if the equipment fuse breaks neutral or live. The current is interrupted anyway.
A short to case is something different.
The protective earth has to be capable withstanding a fault current up to 16A until the houses mains circuit breakers or fuses jump in.
RCDs are additional protection only and were not mandatory in the past.
You can not expect them and of course nobody constructs equipment with them in mind.
regards
German mains plugs are not polarised and you don't need two fuses here.
It doesn't matter, if the equipment fuse breaks neutral or live. The current is interrupted anyway.
A short to case is something different.
The protective earth has to be capable withstanding a fault current up to 16A until the houses mains circuit breakers or fuses jump in.
RCDs are additional protection only and were not mandatory in the past.
You can not expect them and of course nobody constructs equipment with them in mind.
regards
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.