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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2008
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Where you have a situation where a lot of single wires are attached to the edge of veroboard/stripboard...or even a PCB...what's the best method to stop them moving & eventually snapping off.
I think I've seen some manafacturer's use what looks like a blob of clear/tramnslucent resin where the cable meets the board (to reinforce it)....would I be right in thinking that this is just cold "hot glue"? |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2008
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Ok, thanks - next question
Which is the best model to get (gas, electric, cordless)...I realise they've all got pros & cons, but if anybody has any experience I'd be grateful to hear! Also any makes I should stick with? (no pun intended!!) |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Denmark, Viborg
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Just about anything goes. The easy solution is an electrical gun, which is BTW also a cheap solution.
As for the hot melt glue, I've used loads of it, and I'm still to encounter something that didn't work as expected. So, grab the cheapest you can find, and spend the money you saved on a flower for the Mrs. Magura
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Everything is possible....to do the impossible just takes a little while longer. www.class-a-labs.com |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Canandaigua, NY USA
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I've also seen people use cyanoacrylate and an accelerator- used to be sold as "Tac-Pac" or something like that. The accelerator was a small aerosol that gave almost instantaneous hardening. This was popular for holding small gage wire wrap wire in place.
__________________
I used to be an audiophool like you but then I took an arrow to the knee. |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Vancouver Island
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RTV (aka Silastic, silicone sealant) is good if you can wait for it to dry (although you don't have to wait for it to warm up). And can keep the tube from solidifying between uses. The trick is to squirt a generous amount into the cap and over the nozzle before screwing it on. That seems to stop the sealant from hardening back into the tube.
It's better to use a connector and plug the wire harness onto the board. The problem is the cost of the crimp tools; trying to squeeze the terminals with pliers, or soldering, usually doesn't work at all well. |
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#7 | |
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49 - for the 16th time
diyAudio Member
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Quote:
![]() OH Yeah - some of the RTV's stink (smell bad). I like the hot glue best.
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"You can't always get what you want" K. Richards/M. Jagger *** "Next time I will know some things better" Zen Mod |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Shropshire, England
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An alternative method of securing the wires (particularly useful if you might want to make changes in the future) is to leave a few spare holes at the edge, and thread the wires in and out of these.
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#9 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Saskatchewan
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Quote:
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The power of Science compels you! |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
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I've heard that some hot glue can be conductive. Is this true?
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