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Old 4th June 2008, 10:24 PM   #21
lne937s is offline lne937s  United States
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Rather than removing material, what about adding it? Simply cut an 1/8" thick sheet of material to go around the driver. Cut it with a jig saw and glue/screw to the front baffel. Adding thickness to the panel would also add some rigidity...

Even simpler option would to take some self adheasive cork sheet or soft closed-cell foam (available for kids arts and crafts at Michaels), cut to size with scissors and layer to the desired thickness. This would also add some dampening...
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Old 4th June 2008, 10:44 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally posted by loninappleton
I'm losing my confidence.

The more I try to freehand flush mounts for square drivers, the worse they get.

I have to make one of those pattern templates. The outlay and time will be considerable.

Doing it by hand, I always overshoot the corners and I have no good control over doing the arcs of the sides either.
What driver, specifically are you trying to mount?

Friend of mine does laser cutting for a very reasonable price and if you'd like, I'd be happy to draw you up a template in AutoCAD for a specific size bit/collar and have my friend cut it out of some 1/8" acrylic.

se
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Old 5th June 2008, 12:49 AM   #23
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I can't commit to any sales-- haven't officially got a real router yet.

The unit is the FE127e. Detailed dimensions are on the Madisound site and well-known by the regular members here.

This is a square flange and so I do not know even in CAD how you would negotiate the turns. The system shown at the beginning of the
thread shows a couple steps to get the right pattern. One is enlarging the shape and then reducing it with the final step of using the 1/4 bit collar.

If making a pattern in CAD is possible then conceivably only a flush trim router bit and collar would be needed if the pattern were purchased.

Thanks for replying. I've been looking at these steps and the exposed router bit with no fence to get the first pattern shape of the driver
looks kind of dodgey.



You have to be pretty confident to do that part.

I have one other thing to try and that is using a zip bit to get the shape freehand. I have not been able to get the arcs and the corners right without making errors.

The zip bit is used for cutting on Roto tools. The zip bit would be like scribing a pencil line.

A pattern would solve a lot of things. If enough people got interested a whole series of templates could be merchandised.

I've found the work gets better the slower you go but only one slip botches the whole thing. I've been practicing on scraps.
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Old 5th June 2008, 01:49 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally posted by loninappleton
The unit is the FE127e. Detailed dimensions are on the Madisound site and well-known by the regular members here.

This is a square flange and so I do not know even in CAD how you would negotiate the turns.
Fortunately the mechanical drawing in the pdf file is in vector format. So I was able to import the pdf into CorelDRAW, delete all the superfluous stuff and use the outline of the mechanical drawing. Provided Fostexes drawing is reasonably accurate, it's just a matter of scaling it up to the appropriate size.

I wouldn't use anything larger than a 1/4" OD collar with a 1/8" dia. straight bit. Fostex gives the maximum width as 4.6". So if you bring the size of the cutout to 4.75", then you'll have a clearance of about 0.075" around the driver. And for a 1/4" OD collar and 1/8" dia. straight bit, the outline just needs to be sized into a 4.875" square.

se
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Old 5th June 2008, 02:24 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally posted by loninappleton


Thanks for replying. I've been looking at these steps and the exposed router bit with no fence to get the first pattern shape of the driver
looks kind of dodgey.



You have to be pretty confident to do that part.

Are you referring to my step by step instructions with illustrations?
Dodgy??
My process is beyond your abilities and capacity for understanding apparently. I take for granted that on a DIY site the members would have some experience with the tools they expect to use, and some understanding of how to do certain things. The ability to read, understand and follow simple instructions seems to be elusive here also, to the point where it feels like I'm either talking in an alien language or I'm trying to describe colour to a blind person.

Of course, there is the off chance that someone might read it and make use of the method to effectively deal with a tough problem. I guess it would be worth the annoyance then.
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Old 5th June 2008, 06:29 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally posted by MJL21193



Are you referring to my step by step instructions with illustrations?
Dodgy??
My process is beyond your abilities and capacity for understanding apparently. I take for granted that on a DIY site the members would have some experience with the tools they expect to use, and some understanding of how to do certain things. The ability to read, understand and follow simple instructions seems to be elusive here also, to the point where it feels like I'm either talking in an alien language or I'm trying to describe colour to a blind person.

Of course, there is the off chance that someone might read it and make use of the method to effectively deal with a tough problem. I guess it would be worth the annoyance then.

I don't think I'm going out on a limb here by saying that there is no complete how in this thread.

But the remarks remind me of the old joke about the woodworker
who says "I've been doing this for thirty years, mate, and I still have all eight fingers."




Also I might be using the word dodgy incorrectly. In this telling I mean dodgy is _risky_. Maybe should've said risky and be done with it.

My bad.
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Old 6th June 2008, 12:23 AM   #27
SY is offline SY  United States
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John, please be gentle. Not all of us have your experience and intuitive understanding.
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Old 13th August 2008, 06:48 PM   #28
Nordic is offline Nordic  South Africa
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Glad this thread got mentioned again... as I saw something that may be interesting... at the gift card paper shop I saw these large sheets of cork, looks about 3mm thick... Wonder if it would be a suitable veneer for a speaker, would also be very easy to cut out the flush mount pattern.
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Old 13th August 2008, 07:21 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally posted by Nordic
Glad this thread got mentioned again... as I saw something that may be interesting... at the gift card paper shop I saw these large sheets of cork, looks about 3mm thick... Wonder if it would be a suitable veneer for a speaker, would also be very easy to cut out the flush mount pattern.
GM has also suggested that an easy way to do flush mounts is to use a thin baffle layer cut to shape which brings the driver up to
level with the baffle edge. The cork (see above post) can likely be used in that way.
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Old 13th August 2008, 09:04 PM   #30
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Flush mounting speakers: the whole story

Quote:
Originally posted by OzMikeH
The nicer drivers such as F200A
I don't know about the big one, but FX120 & F120A may look square but they aren't.

dave
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