Rather than removing material, what about adding it? Simply cut an 1/8" thick sheet of material to go around the driver. Cut it with a jig saw and glue/screw to the front baffel. Adding thickness to the panel would also add some rigidity...
Even simpler option would to take some self adheasive cork sheet or soft closed-cell foam (available for kids arts and crafts at Michaels), cut to size with scissors and layer to the desired thickness. This would also add some dampening...
Even simpler option would to take some self adheasive cork sheet or soft closed-cell foam (available for kids arts and crafts at Michaels), cut to size with scissors and layer to the desired thickness. This would also add some dampening...
I can't commit to any sales-- haven't officially got a real router yet.
The unit is the FE127e. Detailed dimensions are on the Madisound site and well-known by the regular members here.
This is a square flange and so I do not know even in CAD how you would negotiate the turns. The system shown at the beginning of the
thread shows a couple steps to get the right pattern. One is enlarging the shape and then reducing it with the final step of using the 1/4 bit collar.
If making a pattern in CAD is possible then conceivably only a flush trim router bit and collar would be needed if the pattern were purchased.
Thanks for replying. I've been looking at these steps and the exposed router bit with no fence to get the first pattern shape of the driver
looks kind of dodgey.
You have to be pretty confident to do that part.
I have one other thing to try and that is using a zip bit to get the shape freehand. I have not been able to get the arcs and the corners right without making errors.
The zip bit is used for cutting on Roto tools. The zip bit would be like scribing a pencil line.
A pattern would solve a lot of things. If enough people got interested a whole series of templates could be merchandised.
I've found the work gets better the slower you go but only one slip botches the whole thing. I've been practicing on scraps.
The unit is the FE127e. Detailed dimensions are on the Madisound site and well-known by the regular members here.
This is a square flange and so I do not know even in CAD how you would negotiate the turns. The system shown at the beginning of the
thread shows a couple steps to get the right pattern. One is enlarging the shape and then reducing it with the final step of using the 1/4 bit collar.
If making a pattern in CAD is possible then conceivably only a flush trim router bit and collar would be needed if the pattern were purchased.
Thanks for replying. I've been looking at these steps and the exposed router bit with no fence to get the first pattern shape of the driver
looks kind of dodgey.
You have to be pretty confident to do that part.
I have one other thing to try and that is using a zip bit to get the shape freehand. I have not been able to get the arcs and the corners right without making errors.
The zip bit is used for cutting on Roto tools. The zip bit would be like scribing a pencil line.
A pattern would solve a lot of things. If enough people got interested a whole series of templates could be merchandised.
I've found the work gets better the slower you go but only one slip botches the whole thing. I've been practicing on scraps.
loninappleton said:
Fortunately the mechanical drawing in the pdf file is in vector format. So I was able to import the pdf into CorelDRAW, delete all the superfluous stuff and use the outline of the mechanical drawing. Provided Fostexes drawing is reasonably accurate, it's just a matter of scaling it up to the appropriate size.
I wouldn't use anything larger than a 1/4" OD collar with a 1/8" dia. straight bit. Fostex gives the maximum width as 4.6". So if you bring the size of the cutout to 4.75", then you'll have a clearance of about 0.075" around the driver. And for a 1/4" OD collar and 1/8" dia. straight bit, the outline just needs to be sized into a 4.875" square.
se
loninappleton said:
Thanks for replying. I've been looking at these steps and the exposed router bit with no fence to get the first pattern shape of the driver
looks kind of dodgey.
You have to be pretty confident to do that part.
Are you referring to my step by step instructions with illustrations?
Dodgy??
My process is beyond your abilities and capacity for understanding apparently. I take for granted that on a DIY site the members would have some experience with the tools they expect to use, and some understanding of how to do certain things. The ability to read, understand and follow simple instructions seems to be elusive here also, to the point where it feels like I'm either talking in an alien language or I'm trying to describe colour to a blind person.
Of course, there is the off chance that someone might read it and make use of the method to effectively deal with a tough problem. I guess it would be worth the annoyance then.
I don't think I'm going out on a limb here by saying that there is no complete how in this thread.
But the remarks remind me of the old joke about the woodworker
who says "I've been doing this for thirty years, mate, and I still have all eight fingers."
Also I might be using the word dodgy incorrectly. In this telling I mean dodgy is _risky_. Maybe should've said risky and be done with it.
My bad.
But the remarks remind me of the old joke about the woodworker
who says "I've been doing this for thirty years, mate, and I still have all eight fingers."
Also I might be using the word dodgy incorrectly. In this telling I mean dodgy is _risky_. Maybe should've said risky and be done with it.
My bad.
I know this is an old thread but here's another trick to getting super clean circles on both sides using just a router and circle jig.
Set your circle jig and begin cutting your circle in small increments. Start with 1/4" deep at a time. When you get near to routing through leave 1/16" material at the bottom of the cut and stop the router. Now punch out the plug with your hands being careful not to tear, rip or otherwise mar the edge. Get out your panel trimming bit, looks like an upside down template bit, and finish the cut on the finish side. Panel trimming bits are used for installing Formica counter tops or trimming other veneers. They come in different sizes from 1/8" to about 1/2" with a bearing on the BOTTOM rather than the top. You could also use a round over, chamfer or any other pilot bit to finish the hole. Makes a very clean finish on the front of the baffle. Excellent idea if you are using veneer plywood and perfect for chamfering or rounding the inside opening for a small woofer.
Set your circle jig and begin cutting your circle in small increments. Start with 1/4" deep at a time. When you get near to routing through leave 1/16" material at the bottom of the cut and stop the router. Now punch out the plug with your hands being careful not to tear, rip or otherwise mar the edge. Get out your panel trimming bit, looks like an upside down template bit, and finish the cut on the finish side. Panel trimming bits are used for installing Formica counter tops or trimming other veneers. They come in different sizes from 1/8" to about 1/2" with a bearing on the BOTTOM rather than the top. You could also use a round over, chamfer or any other pilot bit to finish the hole. Makes a very clean finish on the front of the baffle. Excellent idea if you are using veneer plywood and perfect for chamfering or rounding the inside opening for a small woofer.
Last edited:
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.