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Old 30th January 2008, 01:36 PM   #31
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Originally posted by Eva


The voltage across the lamp suffers an abrupt polarity change with ringing everytime the ballast current crosses through zero. Starters include a capacitor to reduce dV/dt but it actually becomes quite ineffective and trades a lower ringing frequency for stronger ringing. You may wish to check if this fluorescent system has a power factor correction capacitor fitted, as it could improve EMI by confining some of the RF in the lamp-ballast loop.

Ironically, a good high-frequency switching mode ballast may produce less EMI (plus the usual advantages: increased light output, longer lamp life, fixed starting time, less power wasted as heat, etc...)

It's a tabletop lamp with a 1 metre cable (antennae!) connecting the ballast to the lamp. I doubt the capacitor can fix that! I think I'll replace it with an incandescent or halogen bulb, the fluorescent flickers erratically too. But that seems to be a problem with the mains power, the lamp in the bathroom does it too. The mains voltage waveform looks almost like a trapezoid... Is it supposed to be like that?

(The requirement for PFC in new products might not be as stupid as RoHS though!)
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Old 30th January 2008, 01:48 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally posted by megajocke
(The requirement for PFC in new products might not be as stupid as RoHS though!)

then they'll have to ban CCFL's.
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Old 30th January 2008, 01:51 PM   #33
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Now I know why I always had the feeling of talking to a ghost !!!

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Old 30th January 2008, 02:38 PM   #34
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Originally posted by djQUAN



then they'll have to ban CCFL's.

Haha! But I believe the power factor is pretty good to begin with though, good luck getting a big filter capacitor in there. If the filter capacitor is reduced in value the power factor will be better at the expense of 100Hz flicker, which might not be a problem. It's all those computers and TVs that mess up our mains waveform.

But really, I think it's quite stupid cramming those electronics into the base of the lamp with almost no cooling. An external ballast will last longer with the same components and there will be no problem fitting a PFC correction circuit. And when the lamp goes out you don't have to replace the ballast. Why do we have to use the edison type screw base for fluorescents? It's a wonder it has not been banned due to its easily accessible live parts. Even worse than the standard US mains plug that you can pull out a bit and connect your europlug at a right angle to it.
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Old 30th January 2008, 03:02 PM   #35
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Even worse than the standard US mains plug that you can pull out a bit and connect your europlug at a right angle to it.
Do you find that inconvenient ?

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Old 30th January 2008, 08:32 PM   #36
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Old 17th February 2008, 05:01 PM   #37
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Originally posted by Eva


Indeed!!

It's a pity that you are only getting the low quality pale white CFL stuff in the US. The warm white ones are quite different.
There are three color temps available here in the local big box hardware store, Home Depot. Cool White, Bright White and Warm White. Cool white looks bluish and is very high color temp. Bright white is closest to incandescent and Warm white is too orange for good color rendering. It's akin in K to a dim incandescent.
Unfortunately, many of the "name brands" such as Phillips are terrible in color rendering and start-up (very dim, increasing in brightness).
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Old 27th January 2009, 09:30 PM   #38
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Seen on the new packaging of GE's compact fluorescents -- words to the effect of -- and I paraphrase: don't use these things near sensitive electronic devices -- they emit in a range of 500kHz to 30MHz -- most of the a.m. broadcast band, short wave listening and ham frequencies.

FWIW, our town dump just posted a sign that they will no longer take fluorescents or their CF variety.

just what we need, more e-crud -- gonna be great for the old hammond transformers, however.

and I note that CFL's should not be used in recessed fixtures -- they can overheat. this was pointed out in EDN back in October and is now on the packaging.
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