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#21 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: The Netherlands, Utrecht
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Hi Gaz,
You can do that without any problem. But! Be shure to use the best tape you can buy! I use the best glue there is, from BISON. Are you going to make it with pvc isolated wire or with perforated metal? I wish you luck with your plans. Regards, Audiofanatic
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Be nice to animals. |
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#22 |
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diyAudio Member
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Hi,
Before I go on, it'd be rude not to let you know how beautiful your ESLs are!!! Fantastic work. (Or are they what you made clones of?) Either way - excellent! ![]() I have got the Mylar. I ordered it from One Thing Audio. I believe it is used for repairing Quad ESLs (66? Something anyway!). Unfortunatly it is about 23microns thick which is more than I wanted, but hopefully I should get quite a bit of tension. I am sourcing some 1.5mm or 2mm acrylic for the spacers (about 1.7mm seems to be optimal but hopefull 1.5 bulked out with tape will do it). Finally, the stators are the only thing I haven't sourced. I am getting quotes on 1.5mm mild steel perforated plates with 50% coverage of 3mm holes. I will get them powder coated (only £25 for all 4!). One company quoted £80 for the mild steel!!! Does this sound OK? Will it make much difference if a D/S spacing is 2.1mm instead of 1.7mm? Does that sound right by the way. Sounds like an awfully small gap to me! Thanks, Gaz
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For my latest projects see: http://www.rarkovelectronics.co.uk <- Updated 11/04/2003 If at first you don't succeed, then maybe sky diving isn't for you!
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#23 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: The Netherlands, Utrecht
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Hi Gaz,
The ESL's are the original ones, I'v made a clone of those. The Mylar is to thick, you'll see when you'r ready to listen to your ESL's. I can send you 4 or 6 micron if you want via a friend of mine, 80cm resp. 100cm wide. The gap is o.k! the bigger the gap, the lower the db! I'm going to bed now. I'll continue tomorow Audiofanatic.
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Be nice to animals. |
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#24 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Amsterdam
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Quote:
I use the 6 micron variety Audiofanatic speaks about and it is very good. It is also in the link in my first post (the stuff from MartinJan Dijkstra). I too used tape to glue the mylar to the spacers but I have used glue (bisonkit it is called in holland) to fix the spacers to the frame. My D/S spacing is 2mm. I would rather go to 2.5mm then to 1.5mm if you intend on using your ESL at or close to full range. Make sure to have your metal powdercoated at least twice maybe even three times to create a thick enough insulation layer. Also I read somewhere (did not test it myself) not to use black paint as it contains carbon particles (to make it black). This gives it a much lower resistance at these high voltages. Good luck
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Keep an open mind. It helps. Peter |
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#25 |
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diyAudio Member
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I am also working on an electrostat. I just wanted to caution all those new to DIY and especially working with ESL's, be VERY CAREFUL about the voltages. Use rubber gloves when working with powered units. These devices can shock you VERY badly if not KILL you if you touch live parts. Remember that the ESL is a capacitor and so can store a charge at very high voltages. While these are highly resistive , the power transformer/power supply and step up transformer are especially lethal. With kilovolts around you can even blow a normal DMM !!
BE CAREFUL. Cheers.
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#26 |
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diyAudio Member
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Don't worry. I'm exceedingly wary of Power Supplies. I had no prior knowledge of high power PSUs when I built my monoblocks with 500VA PSUs, but I did it, and I'm happy with them, but I certainly do not go poking around in them...or if I have had to quickly discharge large caps, it's been on the end of a long screwdriver!
I will be even more wary of kV sized PSUs! Out of interest, if using a DMM with a step down resistor network, how far can I expect the PSU to spark to the probes (or me) when I go to measure them. Will there be a spark at all? BTW: How much would people expect to pay for perforated sheet mild steel with the following specs: 2mm thickness (2000mmx1000mm) 50% hole coverage. 3mm hole at 4mm pitch £72.76 per sheet (need 2!) Thanks, Gaz
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For my latest projects see: http://www.rarkovelectronics.co.uk <- Updated 11/04/2003 If at first you don't succeed, then maybe sky diving isn't for you!
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#27 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: USA
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Does anyone know where to purchase the audio step up transformers?? I tried the electrostatic loudspeaker exchange, but they seem not to be answering their e-mails and their phone line is disconected. HMMM methinks a bad sign.
Anyway, if anyone knows where I could get these it would be appreciated. Thanks, Wes |
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#28 |
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diyAudio Member
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I think this is probably a bit like winding audio transformers for a tube amp. Only hitch is that it uses higher voltages on the secondary and so insulation schemes will be more important.
Has anyone started winding an audio output transformer yet ? If you have never wound a transformer - it might be much better to buy one. Cheers.
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AM |
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#29 |
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diyAudio Member
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http://www.justrealmusic.com/content/transformers.htm
and http://www.amplimo.nl/en-us/dept_30.html and http://www.sowter.co.uk/esl.htm and this http://www.audiocircuit.com/9041-esl...U/9041DMAU.htm One of these may solve your problem. Cheers.
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#30 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: West London
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Quote:
Rarkov : I'm also building an ESL . A good source for mylar is model engineering suppliers . My 5 micron mylar was £5.00 for a 10mx30cm piece . Farnell have suitable double sided acrylic tape and foam tape suitable for spacer adhesive . Is this what you were planning on using ? 316a |
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