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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Bristol, UK
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I'm always moving my speakers around, and I'm fed up with using binding posts.
I was wondering if was possible to use 1/4" jacks instead? I can't find the specs on them tho, like maximum voltage and current ratings... I guess it varies from plug to plug... tho. My speakers don't have mega high power ratings tho... Around 200W or so. I was simply going to wire + to the tip and - to the sleeve... so I guess it should be best to get 1/4 jack plug with insulated sleeves... Or should it be worth using 1 plug for + and another for - ? |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
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1/4 inch jacks are used in P.A. and guitar/bass stuff, so yes you can. The jacks I have seen inside equipment look the same as what you can buy at radio shack, but there may be some thicker ones, I don't know. The connecting cable is definetely a thicker cable. You could go down to any guitar shop and pick up a speaker connecting cable with 1/4 inch jacks. Lots thicker than a normal guitar cable connecting to the input.
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#3 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Bristol, UK
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Quote:
I'll be sure to use thick cable tho... the last thing I want is power being wasted in the cables due to resistance... |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Canandaigua, NY USA
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That's common (standard?) with guitar amps and such, so no problem. I like 5-way binding posts, but I never use them in 4 out of the 5 ways. Can't ever remember what all 5 ways are! I always get dual banana plugs (Pomona) so I can quickly plug and unplug wires. The plugs have a ridge so you can tell (and quickly reverse, if necessary) the polarity. They can also accept huge wires if you solder them in the cups, otherwise I use a less known trick to get good reliability- Never tin wires and fasten them down with a screw. The joint will lose compression. Instead, take a heavy piece of solid copper wire (I steal it from a piece of house wire) and solder the stranded wire to one end of the heavy copper wire. Cut it to about 1/2" long. Now, stick that in the connector and tighten the screw down on it. You get a gas tight seal, lower resistance, long term reliability, and the wire is now at the 90 degree angle you needed to begin with.
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
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Thats a better method than the 1/4 inch jacks. I have seen the 1/4 inch jacks go flaky and I have to jerk it around for it to connect. But these were probably inferior jacks.
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#6 | ||
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diyAudio Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Pennsylvania
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Quote:
Quote:
__________________
Brian |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Lousy Anna
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__________________
Troy Thinking positive doesn't make things better, it makes you a better person. |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Moderator
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There must be millions of mid level pro speakers out there with 1/4" jacks. Not the greatest connector, but it works. Guitar amps, too, as mentioned above.
There are 1/4" jacks and plugs made for speaker level use. They tend to be fatter than the line level stuff. Lets you get a thicker cable in.
__________________
Take the Speaker Voltage Test! |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Scottish Borders
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Hi,
does a 1/4inch TS jack short the amp outlet as the jack is pushed/pulled? I would go to 2pole or 4pole Speakon. |
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#10 | |
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No snake oil
diyAudio Member
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Quote:
Yes it will short for a brief moment. Speakon is specifically made for speaker connections, a much better solution. It has lower contact resistance and can take higher power. Plug is safer and also takes larger diameter/area speaker cable. And of course, no shorting…..
__________________
/ Anders |
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