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Old 25th November 2007, 06:35 PM   #21
Chartal is offline Chartal  Canada
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I found some cutters for you with 1/4" shaft/

CMT Downcut Spiral Cutters
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Old 25th November 2007, 08:11 PM   #22
Irakli is offline Irakli  United States
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Hi Guys,

If I am using regular router, how should I apply coolant and how much?

Thanks for advice
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Old 25th November 2007, 08:21 PM   #23
EC8010 is offline EC8010  United Kingdom
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Quote:
Originally posted by Chartal
I found some cutters for you with 1/4" shaft/

CMT Downcut Spiral Cutters
You are a gentleman and a scholar. I've just ordered two. Thank you.
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Old 25th November 2007, 08:25 PM   #24
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I've used sharp regular cutters with a very slow feed - no coolant. I've had very good results. Maybe results would be even better with coolant.

The issue with using a router is control . You must not be in a situation where you are biting off more than a couple thousandths of an inch or it will try and take off, chatter, etc. Try and keep the cut much less than the depth the cutter is capable of in wood and use a jig to keep the cuts shallow. I've noticed that the finish that can be achieved is on par or better than with a conventional mill - probably due to the high cutter speed and the sharpness of the cutter. I have a mill now and I won't go back, but......
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Old 25th November 2007, 09:20 PM   #25
poobah is offline poobah  United States
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Mr. Marino makes the best point of all.

The rigiity of the set up is paramount... and this is where a router is most lacking. You speak of a trammel... so I would guess that you're cutting circles? The smallest amount of play in the setup invites the bit to "bite off more it can chew". Once this occurs... the bit is bent and the router jumping out of the material. The path of of the router must be solidly confined in all directions... RIGID.

I have cut 2" plate on a table saw... just go slow.

As far as coolants are concerned... much depends on the metal. Better grades of aluminum... alloyed with copper and such; are much easier to cut cleanly. Look no farther than the fridge for coolant... good ole' lard makes an excellent lube for cutting aluminum.

Oh, and BTW... this will make alot of fine airborne dust.





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Old 25th November 2007, 09:20 PM   #26
EC8010 is offline EC8010  United Kingdom
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Thanks for that, that's just the sort of advice I needed.
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Old 25th November 2007, 09:29 PM   #27
poobah is offline poobah  United States
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Oops... forgot,

If your're doing 1/4" / 6mm plate; do it all in one pass. The corners of the bit are prime culprits when it comes to "biting off..." If you're not using the corners of the bit... so much the better.

If possible, find another method to plunge through the material... again, the router will work fine... as long as things are rigid enough.

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Old 25th November 2007, 09:57 PM   #28
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...and the poobah comes up for air!

How long before you return under your rock?
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Old 25th November 2007, 10:00 PM   #29
poobah is offline poobah  United States
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I will be free until Tuesday morning... when a new AVR emulator gets here to replace the one that doesn't work. Then... it is back under the rock...
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Old 25th November 2007, 11:01 PM   #30
ecoda is offline ecoda  Canada
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Quote:
Originally posted by poynton
In a similar vein, can perspex / plexiglass be routed with a 'normal' domestic router ?

Andy
I have not milled Plexi but have drilled it plenty of times, and while there are special bits for plexi (shallow attack angle) you can use generic bits, but it is of paramount importance to drill slowly and clean your bit every few mils so that heat does not build up under the surface. If you over heat Plexi, which is easy to do, a clean hole may show crazing and cracks will appear months after the work is done, usually directly to the closest edge. Also if you are discussing plastics (as with aluminum alloys) it is worth noting the particular grade/type as they have individual machining characteristics.

Simon
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