...with a LS7804 4-bit decoder with some DS1666 logarithmic digital potentiometers.
PSEUDO JOSHUA TREE ATTENUATOR!
Has NOT been build or tested yet. In fact, I would really appriciate it if someone (or even plural) could give me some pointers or the thumbs-up on this design.
Possible names?
OREViC (pseudo-acronym).
Enjoy these files!
EAGLE Files - Includes both the .BRD and .SCH file.
EAGLE Library for the 62P series encoder - Includes the file needed for the schematic and footprint of the 62P encoder from Grayhill. On the schematic, it is noted as 62P22-H-0. Look at the 62P series encoder Datasheet for more information.
Screenshots:
PCB Layout:
Click here for full resolution.
Schematic:
Click here for full resolution.
PSEUDO JOSHUA TREE ATTENUATOR!
Has NOT been build or tested yet. In fact, I would really appriciate it if someone (or even plural) could give me some pointers or the thumbs-up on this design.
Possible names?
OREViC (pseudo-acronym).
Enjoy these files!
EAGLE Files - Includes both the .BRD and .SCH file.
EAGLE Library for the 62P series encoder - Includes the file needed for the schematic and footprint of the 62P encoder from Grayhill. On the schematic, it is noted as 62P22-H-0. Look at the 62P series encoder Datasheet for more information.
Screenshots:
PCB Layout:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Click here for full resolution.
Schematic:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Click here for full resolution.
There is a MAX5440 which does what you are talking about, but I was aiming for something simpler and that was more understandable. I think my design is clean, so I want to see what I can do to improve it.
Sketch of design:
Click here for full resolution.
Enjoy
Sketch of design:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Click here for full resolution.
Enjoy
Hah! Just noticed that the files had the name "AD5220". That is fixed now, no changes to the URL or any of the file's actual data. Just renamed the files on the inside of the ZIP file from:
"AD5220.brd"
and
"AD522.sch"
to
"orevc.brd"
and
"orevc.sch"
Saves some confusion.
(PS: They were named "AD5220" because of my original digital potentiometer, however, they were linear, making them obsolete to me. The DS1666 is made by Maxim (as well as the MAX5440 that I mentioned earlier) and is logarithmic - well, pseudologarithmic at least.)
(PPS: Why is everything PSEUDO this… PSEUDO that! Why can't we have the real McCoy? I'll tell you why. Maxim's just lame and won't make anything simple unless it's crumby - and they are the only company that makes a digital potentiometer anywhere NEAR usable for an application like this one.)
</rant> All good now!
"AD5220.brd"
and
"AD522.sch"
to
"orevc.brd"
and
"orevc.sch"
Saves some confusion.
(PS: They were named "AD5220" because of my original digital potentiometer, however, they were linear, making them obsolete to me. The DS1666 is made by Maxim (as well as the MAX5440 that I mentioned earlier) and is logarithmic - well, pseudologarithmic at least.)
(PPS: Why is everything PSEUDO this… PSEUDO that! Why can't we have the real McCoy? I'll tell you why. Maxim's just lame and won't make anything simple unless it's crumby - and they are the only company that makes a digital potentiometer anywhere NEAR usable for an application like this one.)
</rant>
All good now!
Hello all! I fixed one of the channel's outputs. (The left output).
Also, minor fixes. Links did not change. If you have this for your screenshot:
Click here for full resolution.
Then you need to update your file to the new one so that it looks like this:
Click here for full resolution.
Schematic did not visually change.
Remember: URLs are the same. Bad files are now renamed to "*filename*.bad.*extension*" Is teh hax0rStyl3 
Also, minor fixes. Links did not change. If you have this for your screenshot:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Click here for full resolution.
Then you need to update your file to the new one so that it looks like this:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Click here for full resolution.
Schematic did not visually change.
Remember: URLs are the same. Bad files are now renamed to "*filename*.bad.*extension*"
Is teh hax0rStyl3
Your English is great! I was being sarcastic.
These days, audiophiles tend to frown on tone controls because they typically use op-amps, and to them, every stage of active circuitry, especially op-amps, makes the sound worse. Nevermind that there are probably hundreds of them in the recording console that was used to mix the disc. On the other hand, the "everything has to be modified to sound decent" crowd loves op-amps because it gives them endless forums posting opportunities to inquire about which op-amps to swap with which for better sound.
It is sort of like the selectivity of thinking exhibited by people who buy expensive power cords ignoring the fact that there are miles of cable in the walls and running back to the power generation facility. "I can't control the hundreds of op-amps in the recording console or the miles of cable between me and the power generator, but I can control the number of op-amps in my stereo and the last 2 meters of power cable."
Many of the same people will go out and spend vast sums of money to buy audio cables that provide the same function but without the adjustability that tone controls provide. You can see many posts in these forums by people looking for cables that will mellow out the harsh sound of some particular CD player, etc. When you read descriptions of the sounds of different audio cables (sometimes even power cables!) they sound just like descriptions of tone controls.
I've always like parametric equalizers...
I_F
These days, audiophiles tend to frown on tone controls because they typically use op-amps, and to them, every stage of active circuitry, especially op-amps, makes the sound worse. Nevermind that there are probably hundreds of them in the recording console that was used to mix the disc. On the other hand, the "everything has to be modified to sound decent" crowd loves op-amps because it gives them endless forums posting opportunities to inquire about which op-amps to swap with which for better sound.
It is sort of like the selectivity of thinking exhibited by people who buy expensive power cords ignoring the fact that there are miles of cable in the walls and running back to the power generation facility. "I can't control the hundreds of op-amps in the recording console or the miles of cable between me and the power generator, but I can control the number of op-amps in my stereo and the last 2 meters of power cable."
Many of the same people will go out and spend vast sums of money to buy audio cables that provide the same function but without the adjustability that tone controls provide. You can see many posts in these forums by people looking for cables that will mellow out the harsh sound of some particular CD player, etc. When you read descriptions of the sounds of different audio cables (sometimes even power cables!) they sound just like descriptions of tone controls.
I've always like parametric equalizers...
I_F
analog_sa said:
What it is and what people think they are buying are two different things. The vast majority of cables used with the vast majority of equipment does nothing but connect the signal from one component to another with no audible effect on the signal, even though many will claim miraculous changes to the sound.
In a few cases, for example very high capacitance cables combined with very high impedance sources, the cable may contribute to high frequency roll-off. This isn't normal and usually indicates equipment that is not well designed. Also with very long cables all sorts of things, but usually high frequency roll-off, can occur.
So the answer to your question is that people who are spending vast sums on cables are usually looking for some tone-control functionality, though they would express it in more purple, hi-end audio marketing verbiage. What they actually get most of time is nothing different except in the way it looks and what it costs. Many will think have have gotten what they were looking for due to their expectations and they will be satisfied. It's funny how money spent can satisfy an audiophile's insecurity, but human beings (including audiophiles) are strange that way. Babies suck their thumbs, audiophiles buy ever more expensive cables...
I_F
FILES UPDATED AGAIN!
There was a major screw-up on one of the traces where Left Input connected to ground at the base of IC2.
Files are fixed. Same links (URLs). EVERYONE needs to update to these files NOW — LOL.
Just make sure you do this, as failure to comply could potentially result in the loss of hundreds or even thousands of dollars.
In other words, FIX YOUR FILES! SIZE=1]Or else![/SIZE] 
[
There was a major screw-up on one of the traces where Left Input connected to ground at the base of IC2.
Files are fixed. Same links (URLs). EVERYONE needs to update to these files NOW
— LOL.Just make sure you do this, as failure to comply could potentially result in the loss of hundreds or even thousands of dollars.
In other words, FIX YOUR FILES! SIZE=1]Or else![/SIZE]
[
I updated all of the pictures; Even the schematic - there were no changes to it, however.
PCB pic has correction of Left-Input and Ground issue.
Enjoy.
I'm also going to try making some prototypes of this. I like it, a lot! Seems OKAY!
PS: I also made sure that the digital potentiometers could handle fast changes and would not mess up due to one being a certain amount of steps off from the other - this could've potentially caused balance issues. The DS1666 can take inputs of a maximum pulsating of 2kHz down time for the input. Maximum 62P Series OREs' RPM is 100RPM. 16 position = 100*16 = 1600. LS7804 multiplier (x4) = 1600*4 = 6400. Minute = 60 Seconds = 6400/60 ≈ 106.7hz pulsing max. NO PROBLEMS HERE! Plenty of breathing room for stepping for the digital pots.
PCB pic has correction of Left-Input and Ground issue.
Enjoy.
I'm also going to try making some prototypes of this. I like it, a lot!
Seems OKAY!PS: I also made sure that the digital potentiometers could handle fast changes and would not mess up due to one being a certain amount of steps off from the other - this could've potentially caused balance issues. The DS1666 can take inputs of a maximum pulsating of 2kHz down time for the input. Maximum 62P Series OREs' RPM is 100RPM. 16 position = 100*16 = 1600. LS7804 multiplier (x4) = 1600*4 = 6400. Minute = 60 Seconds = 6400/60 ≈ 106.7hz pulsing max. NO PROBLEMS HERE! Plenty of breathing room for stepping for the digital pots.
HAH!
I just realized that I made a huge mistake! The name of the decoder is not LS7804, but it's LS7084! How did I do this? Just Google LS7804 and you will get tons of relevant results. These guys doing pendulum stuff used the name LS7804 on their site about 4 times and LS7084 only once (generated on a BOM).
I have ordered some samples of these LS7084 from LSI/CSI and am going to buy the rest of the parts to build one as well. I'll keep everyone informed.
Remember: LS7084, not LS7804.
(PS: I think the LS7184 could work for me as well, but for now I'm sticking with the LS7084)
I just realized that I made a huge mistake! The name of the decoder is not LS7804, but it's LS7084! How did I do this? Just Google LS7804 and you will get tons of relevant results. These guys doing pendulum stuff used the name LS7804 on their site about 4 times and LS7084 only once (generated on a BOM).
I have ordered some samples of these LS7084 from LSI/CSI and am going to buy the rest of the parts to build one as well.
I'll keep everyone informed.Remember: LS7084, not LS7804.
(PS: I think the LS7184 could work for me as well, but for now I'm sticking with the LS7084
)
Yay!
THE BOARDS CAME TODAY!
All five of them.
I have them in now: Here's a crappy pic:
Most of the pars are in. I just need the decoder, the digital pots, and the encoder - then i'll be ready to build.
THE BOARDS CAME TODAY!
All five of them.
I have them in now: Here's a crappy pic:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Most of the pars are in. I just need the decoder, the digital pots, and the encoder - then i'll be ready to build.
BETTER PICTURES OF THE BOARDS:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Happy New Year everyone!
Hello everyone! I am here wishing everyone a happy new-year and luck on their projects. I am almost completely done with the OREViC project and will have more news on it as soon as I purchase an optical rotary encoder. All the other pars have been assembled on to a board for testing. I accidentally put the voltage regulators in backwards and came close to ruining it, and I had to do a sloppy fix job on the connection. Makes me feel ashamed of such a quick-fix, but I think that the leads have a very solid connection to the board. One of them had to be soldered to the bottom of the board. Good grief! I will test this with the encoder, and if it works, I will attempt to fix the regulators once and for all; I need to go get some more solder-removal braid! I will have more information on all of this as soon as I can get my hands on one of those OREs.
-Exprice
(Also noted on my website)
Hello everyone! I am here wishing everyone a happy new-year and luck on their projects. I am almost completely done with the OREViC project and will have more news on it as soon as I purchase an optical rotary encoder. All the other pars have been assembled on to a board for testing. I accidentally put the voltage regulators in backwards and came close to ruining it, and I had to do a sloppy fix job on the connection. Makes me feel ashamed of such a quick-fix, but I think that the leads have a very solid connection to the board. One of them had to be soldered to the bottom of the board. Good grief! I will test this with the encoder, and if it works, I will attempt to fix the regulators once and for all; I need to go get some more solder-removal braid! I will have more information on all of this as soon as I can get my hands on one of those OREs.
-Exprice
(Also noted on my website)
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