|
|
|||||||
| Home | Forums | Rules | Articles | Store | Gallery | Blogs | Register | Donations | FAQ | Calendar | Search | Today's Posts | Mark Forums Read | Search |
| Everything Else Anything related to audio / video / electronics etc) BUT remember- we have many new forums where your thread may now fit! .... Parts, Equipment & Tools, Construction Tips, Software Tools...... |
|
Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.
Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving |
|
|
|
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
|
|
#11 | |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Sofia
|
Quote:
Either cables make no difference or they work as tone controls but you can't have it both ways. So, what is it finally? Tone controls? |
|
|
|
|
|
#12 | |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Phoenix, Az.
|
Quote:
In a few cases, for example very high capacitance cables combined with very high impedance sources, the cable may contribute to high frequency roll-off. This isn't normal and usually indicates equipment that is not well designed. Also with very long cables all sorts of things, but usually high frequency roll-off, can occur. So the answer to your question is that people who are spending vast sums on cables are usually looking for some tone-control functionality, though they would express it in more purple, hi-end audio marketing verbiage. What they actually get most of time is nothing different except in the way it looks and what it costs. Many will think have have gotten what they were looking for due to their expectations and they will be satisfied. It's funny how money spent can satisfy an audiophile's insecurity, but human beings (including audiophiles) are strange that way. Babies suck their thumbs, audiophiles buy ever more expensive cables... I_F |
|
|
|
|
|
#13 |
|
diyAudio Member
|
FILES UPDATED AGAIN!
There was a major screw-up on one of the traces where Left Input connected to ground at the base of IC2. Files are fixed. Same links (URLs). EVERYONE needs to update to these files NOW Just make sure you do this, as failure to comply could potentially result in the loss of hundreds or even thousands of dollars. In other words, FIX YOUR FILES! SIZE=1]Or else![/SIZE] [
|
|
|
|
|
#14 |
|
diyAudio Member
|
I updated all of the pictures; Even the schematic - there were no changes to it, however.
PCB pic has correction of Left-Input and Ground issue. Enjoy. I'm also going to try making some prototypes of this. I like it, a lot! PS: I also made sure that the digital potentiometers could handle fast changes and would not mess up due to one being a certain amount of steps off from the other - this could've potentially caused balance issues. The DS1666 can take inputs of a maximum pulsating of 2kHz down time for the input. Maximum 62P Series OREs' RPM is 100RPM. 16 position = 100*16 = 1600. LS7804 multiplier (x4) = 1600*4 = 6400. Minute = 60 Seconds = 6400/60 ≈ 106.7hz pulsing max. NO PROBLEMS HERE! Plenty of breathing room for stepping for the digital pots. |
|
|
|
|
#15 |
|
diyAudio Member
|
I just realized that I made a huge mistake! The name of the decoder is not LS7804, but it's LS7084! How did I do this? Just Google LS7804 and you will get tons of relevant results. These guys doing pendulum stuff used the name LS7804 on their site about 4 times and LS7084 only once (generated on a BOM).
I have ordered some samples of these LS7084 from LSI/CSI and am going to buy the rest of the parts to build one as well. Remember: LS7084, not LS7804. (PS: I think the LS7184 could work for me as well, but for now I'm sticking with the LS7084 |
|
|
|
|
#16 |
|
diyAudio Member
|
|
|
|
|
|
#17 |
|
diyAudio Member
|
|
|
|
|
|
#18 |
|
diyAudio Member
|
Hello everyone! I am here wishing everyone a happy new-year and luck on their projects. I am almost completely done with the OREViC project and will have more news on it as soon as I purchase an optical rotary encoder. All the other pars have been assembled on to a board for testing. I accidentally put the voltage regulators in backwards and came close to ruining it, and I had to do a sloppy fix job on the connection. Makes me feel ashamed of such a quick-fix, but I think that the leads have a very solid connection to the board. One of them had to be soldered to the bottom of the board. Good grief! I will test this with the encoder, and if it works, I will attempt to fix the regulators once and for all; I need to go get some more solder-removal braid! I will have more information on all of this as soon as I can get my hands on one of those OREs.
-Exprice (Also noted on my website) |
|
|
| Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | |
| Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
|
|
|
|
||||
| Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
| How to use the Rotary Encoder to control the cs3310 ? | cac liu | Digital Source | 11 | 24th July 2007 11:32 AM |
| encoder volume control | morpheus82 | Solid State | 16 | 18th November 2006 01:54 PM |
| Digital volume control w/rotory encoder (no MC) | gmphadte | Digital Source | 17 | 8th October 2004 07:23 AM |
| Grayhill 7pole 20 position rotary | Bill Fitzpatrick | Swap Meet | 15 | 19th November 2002 01:15 PM |
| New To Site? | Need Help? |
| Page generated in 0.10961 seconds (80.72% PHP - 19.28% MySQL) with 10 queries |