I just bought a DEwalt router with no router bits.
I plan on doing speaker cabinets in the future and also making 45degrees connection of the wood like mitre but using a router
what bits should i get ? much help needed.
if anyone is that free do help in writing the various bits and it's uses
thanks for the help
I plan on doing speaker cabinets in the future and also making 45degrees connection of the wood like mitre but using a router
what bits should i get ? much help needed.
if anyone is that free do help in writing the various bits and it's uses
thanks for the help
Check out the following site:
http://www.grizzly.com
Look under router bits and you can see pictures of all dfferent
kinds. Personally I don't use a mitered corner because I always
cut a ledge and inlay hardwood trim, so a butt joint is easiest,
strong and accurate.
The bit you may want is called a Locking Miter.
Much better than a straight 45 degree edge.
http://www.grizzly.com
Look under router bits and you can see pictures of all dfferent
kinds. Personally I don't use a mitered corner because I always
cut a ledge and inlay hardwood trim, so a butt joint is easiest,
strong and accurate.
The bit you may want is called a Locking Miter.
Much better than a straight 45 degree edge.
Suggestions from a woodworker
Okay, here are some suggestions from a woodworker who lurks in audio areas. The first couple of bits I would look at buying if I were you, would be a straight cutting bit. (spiral bit, with up-spiral) This bit will be used to plunge into the wood and cut the holes for the drivers. Second, a rabbetting bit or two. This is a bit that looks similar to a straight cutting bit, with the exception that it has a bearing on the bottom, and the cutter is wider than the bearing. This is used to cut the rabbet in the driver hole so you can flush mount the driver.
I would recommend staying away from doing mitered corners, they're not as strong as butt joints, and they're a pain to get completely flush. The lock mitre bit that was suggested, while a very good idea, requires a router table. (Or at least I wouldn't attempt it any other way) If you're concerned about how the joints are going to look, then look at using dovetail joints or box joints. (Don't attempt these on MDF, you'll go mad trying to get it right, only attempt on solid wood or plywood)
I also second the recommendation on hearing protection minimum. (routers are very loud, and you'll be spending time close to it) Eye protection is a definate plus as well. (I wear glasses, so don't think about it as much, even though I should)
As for good sources for the bits, grizzley is good. (Given above) You can also look at Rockler Woodworking or RouterBits.com and finally you could try Whiteside Router bits .
Hope this helps you out!
Okay, here are some suggestions from a woodworker who lurks in audio areas. The first couple of bits I would look at buying if I were you, would be a straight cutting bit. (spiral bit, with up-spiral) This bit will be used to plunge into the wood and cut the holes for the drivers. Second, a rabbetting bit or two. This is a bit that looks similar to a straight cutting bit, with the exception that it has a bearing on the bottom, and the cutter is wider than the bearing. This is used to cut the rabbet in the driver hole so you can flush mount the driver.
I would recommend staying away from doing mitered corners, they're not as strong as butt joints, and they're a pain to get completely flush. The lock mitre bit that was suggested, while a very good idea, requires a router table. (Or at least I wouldn't attempt it any other way) If you're concerned about how the joints are going to look, then look at using dovetail joints or box joints. (Don't attempt these on MDF, you'll go mad trying to get it right, only attempt on solid wood or plywood)
I also second the recommendation on hearing protection minimum. (routers are very loud, and you'll be spending time close to it) Eye protection is a definate plus as well. (I wear glasses, so don't think about it as much, even though I should)
As for good sources for the bits, grizzley is good. (Given above) You can also look at Rockler Woodworking or RouterBits.com and finally you could try Whiteside Router bits .
Hope this helps you out!
Router Bits
I'm a newbie to the forum too but not too routing
Where possible buy Tungsten Carbide Tipped bits (TCT) as the resins in Chipboard & MDF blunt normal high speed steel bits very quickly. If the bit is blunt, not only will it not cut cleanly but will overheat rendering it permanent scrap.
A good book to get hold of is 'Advanced Routing Techniques' by Patrick Spielman. Dont be put off by the 'advanced' it,s easy to follow has plenty of basic advice as well as a multitude of jigs to make jobs easier & finishes with a section on building your own router table.
Hope this helps. Most versatile tool i've ever bought.
SAFETY:- A piece of cutter breaking off during cutting from a 1"diameter router bit turning at 18,000 RPM leaves the bit at 4,712 feet/minute or 78.54 feet/second if you prefer (If you cant run this fast wear a good head shield.
P.S. I use CMT router bits if you can get them. (Not the cheapest & not the dearest, but i've never replaced one.
I'm a newbie to the forum too but not too routing
Where possible buy Tungsten Carbide Tipped bits (TCT) as the resins in Chipboard & MDF blunt normal high speed steel bits very quickly. If the bit is blunt, not only will it not cut cleanly but will overheat rendering it permanent scrap.
A good book to get hold of is 'Advanced Routing Techniques' by Patrick Spielman. Dont be put off by the 'advanced' it,s easy to follow has plenty of basic advice as well as a multitude of jigs to make jobs easier & finishes with a section on building your own router table.
Hope this helps. Most versatile tool i've ever bought.
SAFETY:- A piece of cutter breaking off during cutting from a 1"diameter router bit turning at 18,000 RPM leaves the bit at 4,712 feet/minute or 78.54 feet/second if you prefer (If you cant run this fast wear a good head shield.
P.S. I use CMT router bits if you can get them. (Not the cheapest & not the dearest, but i've never replaced one.
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