When buying a plunge router...

[Cal Weldon]

Should I get 1/4" or 1/2"?

I'm using it for speakers three to four times a year, nothing more. I want to do holes, recesses and roundovers on 3/4" material.

[agent.5]

1/2 inch

[auplater]

To paraphrase a well-known source...

"Big routers are better than little routers"... ;-)

I've got a smaller panel trimmer I use for detail work and such, but if I were choosing between the two bigger is better, since the shank is beefier and, as with other things in life, sometimes size does matter. Less rattling around, heftier motor and more mass makes control cuts easier to manage.

Of course, all this is with the caveat... ymmv

John L.

[Ed LaFontaine]

I know you didn't ask for a recomendation, what the heck...

Its good, there are better, you could pay a lot more for worse

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/AS...s-20/ref=nosim

[Bob2]

Cal

You want a 1/2". If you ever want to expand your use of the router, 1/2" opens up a whole new world of bits to use.

Bob

[Cal Weldon]

OK, thanks guys, I am hearing you. No girlie router for Cal.

That $59 1/4" off-shore unit caught my eye though. I guess it's the same old^2.

1/2" it is then.

Nice looking unit there EL.

[TomWaits]

I purchased a Bosch 1614EVS plunge router second hand for $100. A thing about second hand routers; many of them are sold because the owner never used it much; just like the low frequency use you plan CW.

The 1614 has variable RPM with smooth plunge action and it has a really nice depth setting guide that actually works well and a fine tuning depth adjustment that works and is useful. It also has a slow start feature that also works well and really nice handles to hold it firm in your grip. I have used it and abused it over and over again. I have used it for speakers, custom moldings and even on aluminum. I made a mounting plate to mount it upside down in a Black and Decker work bench with an adjustable fence to profile long wood stock for onsite installations. You can do almost anything with a router.

I made a few cutting guides from mdf and if you plan on many circular cuts you could make your own guides from lexan or Plexiglas for longer life and greater accuracy over time.

Just as the other folks have said, If you can find a unit that allows the use of 1/4" & 1/2" collets then all the better and you will be able to use a wider range of bits. I think the 1614 is limited to a 1/4" collet. I don't know if you could get your hands on a 1614 anymore but you may through eBay and such but I just wanted you to know which one I have been using.

Cheers,

Shawn.

[sandstorm33]

Even if you are an ardent wood worker routers are seldom used . I have two ,both Craftsmen and both 1/4". One is a plunge model the other is a plane old 3/4 hp model which I use more than the plunge model. To buy a Porter Cable or a Bosch is overkill as they are meant for heavy every day use. Most router cuts for speaker building are less than 1/4" deep and are made in MDF which when cut ,quickly turns to dust. My bits were bought on Ebay and still work fine . They are no name carbide and have a 1/4" shank and cost less than $20.

Speaker building is an expensive hobby!! Put your money where it counts. Sounds from ANY router cant compare to a Good Speaker System.

[pinkmouse]

Originally posted by sandstorm33
Even if you are an ardent wood worker routers are seldom used

I disagree completely. The more you use them, the more uses you find for them. I would say that, in fact, you can build excellent speakers with a router as your only power tool.

[richie00boy]

In fact in the most recent pair of cabinets I made, the wood was cut by the merchant and my router was the ONLY tool I used. For edge rebating (easier joint assembly), flush trimming, hole cutting and edge rounding. Routers are ace.