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Old 14th July 2002, 10:53 PM   #61
Coulomb is offline Coulomb  Canada
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Looks pretty good Pedro.
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Old 14th July 2002, 10:59 PM   #62
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I also think that clear aluminum looks good again and prefer it to black.
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Old 25th July 2002, 03:20 PM   #63
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There was a question how I do recessed holes for hex screws.
I use Pilot Point, Twist Drills from DeWalt or from Black&Decker sold under "Bullet" name and available from Home Depot. Those are my favourite drill bits.
For screw head hole size I choose a drill bit next size up and measure the pilot size. I drill a pilot hole first. Then choose the slowest speed on my drill press (which for that purpose is necassary) and drill the big hole for the screw head (adjust the deph of the hole first). Than I drill through the final hole for the screw with a regular bit (because the pilot is smaller than screw size).
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Old 25th July 2002, 03:29 PM   #64
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Thanks Peter ... for answering the questions reagarding the recessed hole drilling.
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Old 25th July 2002, 05:13 PM   #65
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Default an idea

Peter,

Your current picture today in the Aleph X thread give me an idea of how to mount the heatsink to the chassis ... quickier and easier.

- We (because that's how I have seen it done) have always use "L" brackets or some form of small plate bar to "tie" the heatsinks to the chassis.
- How about just built the chassis first (whichever shape it may be) and then cut a big hole on the two side sheet metals to install the heatsinks. The hole on the 2 side sheet metals could be just big enough for the transistors to go through.
- It's much easier to work on the 6 rectangular sheet metals first ... instead of ... concerning of how to align the L brackets (or narrow metal bars), heatsinks and chassis together.
- Once the chassis is done. Cut the big/small rectangular holes on the side plates and bolt on the heatsinks! I believe this will be cleaner and quicker to built.
- Besides, the chassis acts like a huge heatsink too.
- As you know, I have cut rectangular holes with just a jig-saw with metal blades. Holes can be cut quite easily. If you screw up, you won't be able to see the bad cut from outside once the chassis has been put together.

Fellow Diyer's, comments please?
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Old 25th July 2002, 05:31 PM   #66
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Even easier is to use heat sinks as part of a chassis and mount top and bottom plate directly to the heat sinks as I did here. No brackets required. It doesn't always look good cosmetically but I did it this way here because heat sinks had threaded holes already. Very easy and fast way to build a chassis, 4 plates, 2 heat sinks (or four in my case) and 18 screws. Back panel is mounted through the grooves in heat sink, so no screws were required, front panel uses only 2 screws. That's what I call good engineering.
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Old 25th July 2002, 05:43 PM   #67
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Default Pretty simple, isn't it?

Heat sinks should be at least 1/4" thick.
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Old 25th July 2002, 05:48 PM   #68
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Yes, it would be even easier if you have heat sink that's thick enough to hold the screws. That would be something I'll keep in mind when shopping for heatsink.
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Old 26th July 2002, 06:11 AM   #69
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Peter.

What is the digital camera that you are using to make those pics.

I like the quality.

Thanks in advance.

Trigon.
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Old 26th July 2002, 01:19 PM   #70
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4 Meg Olympus. I was considering also Nikon 5000 but F1.8 lens on Olympus made my choice. However, to make a good picture the proper lighting is the most important. I usually do few pictures and then choose the best one.
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