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#301 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Central Coast CA
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The fingers wedge at the bottom, trapping the tap at both ends.
They are called Walton Tap Extractors. My set of 16 goes from 25mm to 3mm (and fractions between), and they hurt like H when you pay for them. But, not as much as not having them, when you break off a blind hole tap (as always, recessed and presenting a 45deg face) in a blind hole in a part you have 2 days w/OT into... Happy to help, guys. I've been dead weight to date (but I'm working on that!). E |
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#302 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Central Coast CA
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A couple more things...
A drill press makes a great tap starter if you: Unplug it. Find the largest dia rod (I like drill blanks) that will go all the way into the chuck key holes, and put a small radius on the ends (for quick, repeated insertion). A drill bit, with the shank inserted, works well for this, but you must wear heavy gloves at least until you get a feel for the particular task. Breaking a drill bit while your hand is around it will quickly produce predictable (and quite possibly, crippling) results. Good blind holes can, and should, be made in two steps. The shape of the first few threads is critical. Always start the process with a regular (tapered) tap, and gently run it to the bottom before switching to the BH tap. The BH is meant only to cut the last few threads. Finish all tapping by hand, switch over as soon as you have a solid, straight start... Unless you have extractors. It also helps to simply buy quality cutting lubes designed for the metal involved (I use Tapmatic). The most cost effective machine shops (on this planet) buy the stuff, at real cost to themselves, by the gallon. The reasons will be crystal clear to you upon setting the first screw. Have fun, take your time, and the results will speak for themselves. E |
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#303 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Central Coast CA
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Build one of these. I'll be happy to show you how (w/o a machine shop) if desired.
This is a spindle wrench for a mill I'm (still) building, and it makes for quick and effective use of any press (w/a free quill) for any manual operation. Use a rod for the first couple of threads.. Then Rock and Roll! The tool should be no longer than necessary to apply proper torque to the biggest tap you will be using, for better "feel" and more speed. A nice setting rod can be made by taking an old drill bit, and making a sleeve handle that exposes only enough of the bit shank to fill the chuck's keyhole. Attach with epoxy, as brazing will apply enough heat to lose the temper. Hoping this is helping... E |
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#304 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Southern NJ
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I live in a small NYC apt and don't have room for a drill press. Where can I but one of those drill guides that was shown many posts back?
Or would anyone build one for me? (I would fork over a few $$ of course!) |
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#305 |
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diyAudio Member
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You can get them from here: http://www.yardstore.com/tools/drilling.htm
Check item # PN:13070 Plastic Drill Cup Only Additional bushing required. BTW, this is a very good ( and pretty cheap) supplier of aircraft tools. I spent $200 there, once |
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#306 | ||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Munich, Bavaria
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Quote:
Quote:
Point is: cool the plexiglas chips enough so they cannot melt and spoil the freshly cut surfaces. I observed our lab mechanic milling plexiglas and perspex parts completely under water (he improvised a water trough on the mill's machine table). Result: the freshly milled surfaces were as smooth and clear as if they had been polished.
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Greets, Bernhard |
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#307 |
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diyAudio Member
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That's an interesting technique. Nice to see you back, Dice.
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#308 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Denmark, Viborg
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Since I usually CNC everything, I just use the regular coolant as used for metal. It contains 7% oil. Most CNC mills have huge coolant pumping capability, so you can easily keep it from melting the material. With such i have experienced the same as Dice45 mentioned.
Magura
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Everything is possible....to do the impossible just takes a little while longer. www.class-a-labs.com |
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#309 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: LA County
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Dice45,
15 months is a long time to be away. Any interesting stories to tell? If yes, please start a new thread. |
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#310 |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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Bernhard,
Good to see you back ![]() dave
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community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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