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#171 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Mountain View, CA
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...so the router does work, and I notice you didn't even use a metal cutter, just the standard router bit. With the thin material, it looks like the cutter didn't get too hot, as I don't see any sign of smearing. Did you 'climb' mill that, or just cut in whatever direction? Also, did you adjust the speed or use cutting fluid at all? Or did you just let er rip at full speed?
![]() How would you feel about using the same technique on 1/8" or 1/4" material...
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- Chad. |
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#172 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Mountain View, CA
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nice job to you too, fdegrove!
Chris ma: I use something called a centre drill to start holes. It's a common tool used for lathe work and the like. Basically, it's a short, stubby drill without flutes cut all the way up the shaft, so it's very rigid, and doesn't wander if you have your work clamped and the drill press isn't sloppy in tolerance. The tip is shaped like a countersink drill, and then there's a very small (maybe 3/32") tip which is just like a regular 3/32" or so drill bit.... I'll have to take a picture so you can see what I'm talking about, but if you start holes with this, and then switch to the fill size drill, they'll always be exactly where you want them, and they'll drill true and round. Let me take a pic, and I'll post in a few minutes.
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- Chad. |
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#173 |
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Banned
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i have some thing close to that to use my product i open the door and put my plate of food into it and turn it on to time 3:00 some times the time varrys.
now if i put a plate of food onto that one will the plate touch the caps.. LMAO just kiddin what kinda caps are those. they look like they came froma micfrowave oven.. |
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#174 |
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Banned
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here we goo now i have compleeted my amps all i hae to do is build my psu when my parts get here ill be having these babys set up in my front room and a nice baby blue glow at night time will light up my floor they sound awsome and work verry well..
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#175 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
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www.audiosector.com “Do something really well. See how much time it takes. It might be a product, a work of art, who knows? Then give it away cheaply, just because you feel that it should not cost so much, even if it took a lot of time and expensive materials to make it.” - JC |
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#176 |
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Banned
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opps for got to mention them xlrs are only temporary but im stull using xlrs for my psu.. and NO i wont get them mixed up when my alephs are done.. ill make sure i dont hehe 80 volts to my alephs inputs will kill them hehe..
j. |
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#177 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
__________________
www.audiosector.com “Do something really well. See how much time it takes. It might be a product, a work of art, who knows? Then give it away cheaply, just because you feel that it should not cost so much, even if it took a lot of time and expensive materials to make it.” - JC |
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#178 |
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diyAudio Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Belgium
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Woah!!!!!!!!!
Looks like you've finished it already. Marvelous job.
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Frank |
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#179 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Pickering, Canada
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Peter,
What power cord you have in mind for your nice CD-pro? I was in Brack today the sales rep show me a Cardas power cable for A/B test, it really may a big difference. |
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#180 |
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diyAudio Member
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I noticed too that power cords make difference. How much was the Cardas? I do my own cords from speaker cable ( I believe it's Audioquest type 4, I have some old stock). Incidentally power cord made big difference in a DAC, however in a transport, not that much. But the supply in a transport has CLCLCRCRC filtering, the one in DAC doesn't.
__________________
www.audiosector.com “Do something really well. See how much time it takes. It might be a product, a work of art, who knows? Then give it away cheaply, just because you feel that it should not cost so much, even if it took a lot of time and expensive materials to make it.” - JC |
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