I've decided to do something about solder fumes so don't bother telling me otherwise.
I'm aware that the simplest solution is just to put a desk fan on the bench and blow the
fumes away from a person's face. But then there are many videos on youtube about
buying, building, etc.
The simple solution is an air purifier, I've read a bit about them and Honeywell (not
really Honeywell) seems to be decent in the lower price range. Some even have a
carbon pre-filter. Many of the cheap ones that have HEPA in the names are not really
HEPA.
This one (16200) looks good, cheap, and small it has a replaceable filter so I could
put a layer of charcoal filter material in place of the regular filter. I'll probably buy
this one and try it, it is also fairly small:
Honeywell 16200 HEPA Clean Tabletop Air Purifier, White | Staples®
The 17000-s would probably be better but it is rather large to sit on the bench, I do
have a large bench - it is true HEPA not that it is needed:
Honeywell 17000-S QuietCare Permanent, True HEPA Air Purifier, Germ Reduction | Honeywell Store
I like this very simple solution but again the 20" fan is rather large. Obviously something
could be done with a smaller desk fan:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kH5APw_SLUU
Is anyone using the Honeywell 16200? How does it work if so?
A nice review of Honeywell units:
http://www.air-purifier-power.com/honeywellreviews.html
I'm aware that the simplest solution is just to put a desk fan on the bench and blow the
fumes away from a person's face. But then there are many videos on youtube about
buying, building, etc.
The simple solution is an air purifier, I've read a bit about them and Honeywell (not
really Honeywell) seems to be decent in the lower price range. Some even have a
carbon pre-filter. Many of the cheap ones that have HEPA in the names are not really
HEPA.
This one (16200) looks good, cheap, and small it has a replaceable filter so I could
put a layer of charcoal filter material in place of the regular filter. I'll probably buy
this one and try it, it is also fairly small:
Honeywell 16200 HEPA Clean Tabletop Air Purifier, White | Staples®
The 17000-s would probably be better but it is rather large to sit on the bench, I do
have a large bench - it is true HEPA not that it is needed:
Honeywell 17000-S QuietCare Permanent, True HEPA Air Purifier, Germ Reduction | Honeywell Store
I like this very simple solution but again the 20" fan is rather large. Obviously something
could be done with a smaller desk fan:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kH5APw_SLUU
Is anyone using the Honeywell 16200? How does it work if so?
A nice review of Honeywell units:
http://www.air-purifier-power.com/honeywellreviews.html
I use a 4" 240V AC fan fitted to a length of ventilator flexible hose that exhausts out through the wall vent.
DP201AT/2122HBL.GN | AC Axial Fan, 120 x 120 x 25mm, 136m/h, 18W, 220 → 240 V ac (DP Series) | Sunon
for the pipe, have a look in a hardware catalogue.
You could use an exhaust pipe from an internal tumble dryer.
DP201AT/2122HBL.GN | AC Axial Fan, 120 x 120 x 25mm, 136m/h, 18W, 220 → 240 V ac (DP Series) | Sunon
for the pipe, have a look in a hardware catalogue.
You could use an exhaust pipe from an internal tumble dryer.
I'd suggest a setup that runs continuously while you're soldering. Even if you clean the tip before standing the iron each time there is still some smoke. For that reason it is handy that the blower is quiet. Also, yes HEPA or something like it is necessary since you are trying to trap smoke, which is much smaller particles than dust filters can trap, and you need it trapped in a single pass.
Personally, I just vent it outdoors. I've used a vacuum cleaner running on a few volts DC and it worked well, but if you do the vent thing, it's much smarter to rig all the interior duct work to run with a vacuum (negative pressure), with the fan/blower on the output side. This completely eliminates any need to worry about small leaks in the ducting. Most axial flow fans are less efficient with the load on the inlet side but since it'd be located somewhat remote with respect to the workbench it can be run at a higher speed without annoyance.
Personally, I just vent it outdoors. I've used a vacuum cleaner running on a few volts DC and it worked well, but if you do the vent thing, it's much smarter to rig all the interior duct work to run with a vacuum (negative pressure), with the fan/blower on the output side. This completely eliminates any need to worry about small leaks in the ducting. Most axial flow fans are less efficient with the load on the inlet side but since it'd be located somewhat remote with respect to the workbench it can be run at a higher speed without annoyance.
Last edited:
Just found an old 19" rack fan assembly from the basement that I used to
use to cool amps under test and dummy loads.
It looks like the attached picture.
Tried it and I think I'm having trouble with the exhaust turbulence blowing
back since it works well at about 12" away but not 20". Would probably
wrap it in a carbon filter material and try to run it slower.
The wide width is a nice shape to hang from the shelf above the bench and
not take up bench space. I suppose without the HEPA filter the smoke
particles will eventually come back into the work area, hmmmm ....
use to cool amps under test and dummy loads.
It looks like the attached picture.
Tried it and I think I'm having trouble with the exhaust turbulence blowing
back since it works well at about 12" away but not 20". Would probably
wrap it in a carbon filter material and try to run it slower.
The wide width is a nice shape to hang from the shelf above the bench and
not take up bench space. I suppose without the HEPA filter the smoke
particles will eventually come back into the work area, hmmmm ....
Attachments
Last edited:
After doing several different arrangements of fume control over the years, the hardest part always seems to be the hood/intake arrangement. The vacuum I used was 40 bucks and needed around 12 volts to work well. I already had all the parts so there was little decision to be made there. I took the filter out and vented outside.
If you're buying all new parts and want to filter then the 17000 may be a decent deal, I don't know, but if you don't have something like a hood, you need a pretty respectable draft, that I do know.
If you're buying all new parts and want to filter then the 17000 may be a decent deal, I don't know, but if you don't have something like a hood, you need a pretty respectable draft, that I do know.
Working at a board house one time, all the solderers had a an axial fan blower just like that sitting behind their work. It pulled the concentrated stuff away from them and blew it into the ambient air. The blades were Caked with gray (not brown, but gray, like lead gray) dust. They also ran a reflow oven in the same room with no vent.
Last edited:
Thanks for all the tips, makes a lot of sense, I'm going to look into making some
sort of hood.
I think that putting the 17000s into a large plastic container with a 4" dryer hose
on the inlet to some sort of hood would probably work very well. It pulls in air
from all directions and having all that come through the one hose would probaby
provide a nice draft.
An old, dead shop vac might make a nice container.
Thinking about where the outlet would go with the 17000s if it just sits on the bench,
cutting a hole in the bench would probably work best but not sure if I want to do that.
6" dryer vent to below the bench might work well.
sort of hood.
I think that putting the 17000s into a large plastic container with a 4" dryer hose
on the inlet to some sort of hood would probably work very well. It pulls in air
from all directions and having all that come through the one hose would probaby
provide a nice draft.
An old, dead shop vac might make a nice container.
Thinking about where the outlet would go with the 17000s if it just sits on the bench,
cutting a hole in the bench would probably work best but not sure if I want to do that.
6" dryer vent to below the bench might work well.
Last edited:
Your mention of a hood, has me thinking about making a hood out of a 20" box fan and
just putting legs on it so it sits over the work area blowing up. There would be a HEPA
furnace filter on the inlet side of the fan and that would keep hair from going into the fan.
Not sure if I could get used to it being there. This as mentioned earlier would be the fan setup:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kH5APw_SLUU
just putting legs on it so it sits over the work area blowing up. There would be a HEPA
furnace filter on the inlet side of the fan and that would keep hair from going into the fan.
Not sure if I could get used to it being there. This as mentioned earlier would be the fan setup:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kH5APw_SLUU
I have a commercial fume extractor. Its really a fan with a foam filter. It does the job when its within 12" or less. It doesn't work if further away. A vacuum would be really noisy and still not pull from a distance. Air flow just doesn't work that way. Even a big range hood only works when it covers the range. And you need to provide make up air if you are exhausting the air from the room.
A range hood over the work area may be a good option. They have lights as well. But the cheap ones are not really adequate and very noisy.
Lots of rapid air movement doesn't seem like a good idea around small SMT parts.
Another option would be a face mask of some sort.
A range hood over the work area may be a good option. They have lights as well. But the cheap ones are not really adequate and very noisy.
Lots of rapid air movement doesn't seem like a good idea around small SMT parts.
Another option would be a face mask of some sort.
Thanks for the tips Demian, I'm not doing surface mount for now so not a problem.
I tried the box fan above just leaning it on a shelf and proping up the other side, it
was 28" up and even on high it didn't do a great job. Odd, I'm pretty sure that if
I had it behind me blowing away it would work fine. I'm pretty sure that this box fan
is far stronger than any kitchen hood fan. Lowering it helped a lot but I don't like the
idea of banging my head on it.
Seems it has to sit on the bench, and I only have 17" to the shelf above, this window
fan would fit but I'd probably have to duct the outlet away somehow:
9 in. Twin Window Fan-FW23-A1 - The Home Depot
I'm thinking a fan on a pole behind me might just be the simplest thing. If I soldered
a lot, everyday it might be a problem blowing the stuff in the house but I solder so little
that I think it will work fine.
I tried the box fan above just leaning it on a shelf and proping up the other side, it
was 28" up and even on high it didn't do a great job. Odd, I'm pretty sure that if
I had it behind me blowing away it would work fine. I'm pretty sure that this box fan
is far stronger than any kitchen hood fan. Lowering it helped a lot but I don't like the
idea of banging my head on it.
Seems it has to sit on the bench, and I only have 17" to the shelf above, this window
fan would fit but I'd probably have to duct the outlet away somehow:
9 in. Twin Window Fan-FW23-A1 - The Home Depot
I'm thinking a fan on a pole behind me might just be the simplest thing. If I soldered
a lot, everyday it might be a problem blowing the stuff in the house but I solder so little
that I think it will work fine.
I think I'm going to try this simple 12" desk fan off to the the side blowing away from
the area, 10 bucks!:
12 in. Personal Fan-FT30-8MB - The Home Depot
I would buy the large Honeywell 17000s but I don't think it will work very well unless
I add on some ducting or a hood and I don't see any simple way to do a hood with it.
the area, 10 bucks!:
12 in. Personal Fan-FT30-8MB - The Home Depot
I would buy the large Honeywell 17000s but I don't think it will work very well unless
I add on some ducting or a hood and I don't see any simple way to do a hood with it.
Last edited:
I am extremely sensitive to solder/cleaner/glue fumes so I had to come up with something similar. I use a ~12inch axial fan normally used with ducted systems in hydro setups. The intake of this fan sits in a hole in the side of a cardboard box which has the bottom and front removed, creating a small hood. The fan output connects to ~6meters of ~250mm soft lightweight nylon tent fabric ducting that self inflates when the fan is on, and can be rolled up when not in use. I normally just drag this out the door of the room when in use.
It works great, plenty of suction even out away from the hood, but it's super loud. You also have to watch out that it doesn't suck up lightweight objects and spit them out the other end......
It works great, plenty of suction even out away from the hood, but it's super loud. You also have to watch out that it doesn't suck up lightweight objects and spit them out the other end......
A gentle air current is probably the least intrusive way - you just need to overcome the airflow generated by body-heat, which tends to pull the rosin-smoke up across your face and into your nose.
If soldering polyurethane insulated wires, the charing polyurethane gives off cyanide amongst other things, which you definitely need to keep from breathing. Just rosin isn't so bad (unless you are allergic, which apparently can happen).
If soldering polyurethane insulated wires, the charing polyurethane gives off cyanide amongst other things, which you definitely need to keep from breathing. Just rosin isn't so bad (unless you are allergic, which apparently can happen).
HSE Website
There is a lot of good advice here -
Local exhaust ventilation - workplace fume and dust extraction
There is a lot of good advice here -
Local exhaust ventilation - workplace fume and dust extraction
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.