I have just purchased a new Metcal MFR1351 to upgrade my older Metcal station.
Very pleased with it and it does everything required of a competent workshop. It uses SmartHeat and is very powerful.
Very pleased with it and it does everything required of a competent workshop. It uses SmartHeat and is very powerful.
I have used this Weller TC202 for 35 years & still have a Mil-Spec Soldering Degree. It's a 40 watt, only. But with the largest tip (1/4") it works well on chassis grounding lugs or with the standard 1/8" tip for everything else. It's old school, industry standard in Silicon Valley where I come from. Heats up in 30s. Cheap & parts are available from Weller. Here is a link to one on Ebay if you're interested....Weller TC202 Soldering Station | eBay
Doug
Doug
Same as mine... I have a variety of 7 and 8 tip temperatures.
It does my SMT TPA3116's.
Doug
The, in my view, best solder/desolder station has 40Watts of power and as it uses smartheat right on the tip, I can solder to car battery lugs with no issues! 90Watts is not needed. Weller use 40Watts and have done for many years with excellent results.
Because is the latest industry standard for soldering / desoldering over multi-layer PCB
( PC motherboards , VGA graphic cards ).
With the soldering classes that I've taught, there are 3 main issues that I preach regarding soldering.
1) use the lowest temp and the most surface area for your tip
2) realize that after tinning the tip you only have about 3 seconds to oxidation
3) complete your joint with a bright shinny finish
So many other skills to cover but, with good technique, a 40 watt will not melt back too much insulation, or unseat too many junctions in SMT LEDs for example. SMT is more prone to have both sides or all sides flowed at the same time with a known & controlled "time at temperature". SMT & multi layered boards use very specialized thousand dollar heated fixtures not having a huge rework potential as is already, without this type of soldering equipment, I would not approach the issue by shooting more heat at the problem. More surface area, not more heat. Use better what you have as to not apply mechanical pressure and lift a pad of trace. 40 watts with everything else optimum such as tip surface area & a 600° to 700° tip temp, good, fresh & glossy solder on the tip, you go in & job done.
Hope this helps,
Doug
1) use the lowest temp and the most surface area for your tip
2) realize that after tinning the tip you only have about 3 seconds to oxidation
3) complete your joint with a bright shinny finish
So many other skills to cover but, with good technique, a 40 watt will not melt back too much insulation, or unseat too many junctions in SMT LEDs for example. SMT is more prone to have both sides or all sides flowed at the same time with a known & controlled "time at temperature". SMT & multi layered boards use very specialized thousand dollar heated fixtures not having a huge rework potential as is already, without this type of soldering equipment, I would not approach the issue by shooting more heat at the problem. More surface area, not more heat. Use better what you have as to not apply mechanical pressure and lift a pad of trace. 40 watts with everything else optimum such as tip surface area & a 600° to 700° tip temp, good, fresh & glossy solder on the tip, you go in & job done.
Hope this helps,
Doug
Exactly! Well played Mr. Onion.
The newer tech irons are cool no doubt, Digital readout is nice, but there are other just & perhaps more effective skills/techniques that will prove more productive other than adding more power. Hey, if I had a 60 watt iron, w/ a digital readout..I'd love it. But having a wet, clean sponge, a well cared for wide (maybe too wide) lower temp tip, and some fresh solder wick, I'm good for 90% of most work be it multi layer PCBs or a simple point to point project. Shelf life of solder is suspect also, a trick for the old- not so shinny solder is to wipe it w/ some pure alcohol first before you use it.
Wishing you good top quality soldering. Tin everything first!
Doug
The newer tech irons are cool no doubt, Digital readout is nice, but there are other just & perhaps more effective skills/techniques that will prove more productive other than adding more power. Hey, if I had a 60 watt iron, w/ a digital readout..I'd love it. But having a wet, clean sponge, a well cared for wide (maybe too wide) lower temp tip, and some fresh solder wick, I'm good for 90% of most work be it multi layer PCBs or a simple point to point project. Shelf life of solder is suspect also, a trick for the old- not so shinny solder is to wipe it w/ some pure alcohol first before you use it.
Wishing you good top quality soldering. Tin everything first!
Doug
Don't forget a Hakko 808 DE-soldering gun.
Rarely used, but a godsend when it's time to desolder multi-pin parts without ruining the board. This is the only tool that puts a smile on my face after I use it.
Rarely used, but a godsend when it's time to desolder multi-pin parts without ruining the board. This is the only tool that puts a smile on my face after I use it.
I have them all, cheapo desoldering tools... from the plastic pumpy thingy, to built-in units from China-built rework stations. They did more damage than good and just worked unsatisfactorily with double-sided, plated-through holes PC boards. Instead of buying temporary cheapo units, just save for it in the long run. 🙂
I use a Weller WES51 and I am very happy with it. There are lots of different tips available.
The soldering station itself is only part of what you need to achieve good solder joints. Get a container of tip tinner, as well as a metal cleaning "sponge" (wire mesh all bunched together) and learn to keep your tips in good shape. Soldering technique is important as well, and there are plenty of online resources for this.
The soldering station itself is only part of what you need to achieve good solder joints. Get a container of tip tinner, as well as a metal cleaning "sponge" (wire mesh all bunched together) and learn to keep your tips in good shape. Soldering technique is important as well, and there are plenty of online resources for this.
I agree, but the pennies won't stretch that far
Yes, I've put the wire mesh cleaner on the list. Looks far better then the sponge.
Grewup on Weller from the time I was knee high to a billy goat. Still have a TC202 bought right after my AF stint, '84. Favorite tips are broad chisel types. Also Precision soldering certified 😉
Today I would get a Hakko. Ultra low maintennence, fast heat up, stable and accurate. Hands down destroys the weller. Have used in both production and R&D settings.
Today I would get a Hakko. Ultra low maintennence, fast heat up, stable and accurate. Hands down destroys the weller. Have used in both production and R&D settings.
Metcal make great irons, We have 2 Metcal and 3 Hakko stations. My favorite is the Metcal, be aware that tips are expensive our Metcal tips run at $80 each.
At home I use a Atten 980D station (Made by Hakko), this uses the same wand and tips as the Hakko F-888 and is a good iron for home use.
At home I use a Atten 980D station (Made by Hakko), this uses the same wand and tips as the Hakko F-888 and is a good iron for home use.
Metcal is the $$ one, but the best for custom SMT. Greebster, me too, me too, ex OMS! I'll ck out the Hakko
If you are ready to spend 100£, then check Ersa I-con Pico.
Or I-con Nano, more expensive & ESD safe MIL-SPEC/ESA: Soldering Stations ERSA at reichelt elektronik
Or I-con Nano, more expensive & ESD safe MIL-SPEC/ESA: Soldering Stations ERSA at reichelt elektronik
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