Kind advice required for desoldering ?

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Hi and thanks. But what i meant is that smd requires different and specific tools. I have already big issues with normal size parts ...



I seriuosly thinking and i am sold on this for diodes and resistors
But for electrolitcs ? Ok ... i can pull them from the other side of the pcb while melting the solder ...
First i want to try the desoldering gun i have bought
If it will not work i will proceed as you suggest



I do not completely agree on this
There are tools, maybe expensive, but designed and built so well that even a not expert can use them in a very effective way.
Desoldering is much more critical than soldering.
For soldering ... cleaning, then the right solder and welder and it is done
I also think that desoldering is not a very common activity
Only used to repair units ...
The spring loaded pump that i have now just do not work well enough
But i will find something ... i am sure of this
And i will report ... of course
Thanks again, gino

The cheaper and more common (at least here in the US) desoldering "bulb" which looks sort of like something you might clean your ears or nose with works the best for me.

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Hi and thanks. But what i meant is that smd requires different and specific tools. I have already big issues with normal size parts ...



I seriuosly thinking and i am sold on this for diodes and resistors
But for electrolitcs ? Ok ... i can pull them from the other side of the pcb while melting the solder ...
<snip>
Thanks again, gino

I used to pull 'lytics that way. If there is no acid damage that's usually OK but if there is damage this may make it worse. I've had no problems even on fragile boards by simply cutting off the cap, flush cut the leads on the component side and sucking out the lead on the solder side. I don't use that little bulb as it's borderline useless. The old Edsyn Soldapullt is much more effective as it moves more air and does it faster.

I don't use any special tools, just Xcelite cutters, the solder sucker, sometimes a hot air gun and the Metcal soldering iron. Yeah Metcal is expensive if you buy new but if you watch on eBay you can get one around $100 and worth every penny. Poor quality tools are no bargain.

 
I used to pull 'lytics that way. If there is no acid damage that's usually OK but if there is damage this may make it worse.
I've had no problems even on fragile boards by simply cutting off the cap, flush cut the leads on the component side and sucking out the lead on the solder side.

Hi and thanks for the kind reply but i checked and i cannot do that way.
The caps are in contact with the pcb ... i cannot bend the cap
If the leads between the caps and the pcb were exposed i could just cut and remove them easily.

I don't use that little bulb as it's borderline useless. The old Edsyn Soldapullt is much more effective as it moves more air and does it faster.
I don't use any special tools, just Xcelite cutters, the solder sucker, sometimes a hot air gun and the Metcal soldering iron.
Yeah Metcal is expensive if you buy new but if you watch on eBay you can get one around $100 and worth every penny. Poor quality tools are no bargain.

I sincerely hope to get a desoldering gun asap
I still think a good even if a little expensive gun is the best
The pcb in the end should be even better than new after a careful cleaning
In the meantime i have received the super solder
In the weekend i would to try to put some of this good solder on a joint and see if the removing can be facilitate
It could be that the mixture flows better ?
I will try and report. Thanks a lot again, gino
 
Hi and thanks for the kind reply but i checked and i cannot do that way.
The caps are in contact with the pcb ... i cannot bend the cap
If the leads between the caps and the pcb were exposed i could just cut and remove them easily.



I sincerely hope to get a desoldering gun asap
I still think a good even if a little expensive gun is the best
The pcb in the end should be even better than new after a careful cleaning
In the meantime i have received the super solder
In the weekend i would to try to put some of this good solder on a joint and see if the removing can be facilitate
It could be that the mixture flows better ?
I will try and report. Thanks a lot again, gino

Adding some new solder to an old joint is a great trick to get it to flow fast enough that you don't damage the board or components. You don't always have to but when a joint is giving me trouble it helps, never made a difference with removal of the solder afterward though. If I have a pad that I just cannot clean up (without damaging) I occasionally just flow what is there and stick the new part in.
 
the flux matters. but if you have to buy different fluxes to compare you end up with years worth of solder and 90% will be non preferred flux.

The brand is of no consequence.
eutectic 63/37 is universal, only the flux can change.

Some will recommend by brand, but really what they are recommending is the flux in that batch. The manufacturer may change the flux once every 10 years, or 5years or when fashionable "fads" arise..

If you buy from the "Manufacturer" then buy by flux. I use Wharton.

I have also got Wharton through RS and through Rapid.
I have a very old reel of 62/36/2 and it happened to be Wharton. When I had learned how to access the internet, I looked them up to discover the myriad of choices.
 
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Hi and thanks a lot. Do you think that the Brand matters ? In case i know of Multicore. Any other recommendable maker ?
Thanks a lot, gino

I've always used Ersin or Kester eutectic "no clean" types of solder, it leaves less mess.
For minimal pcb damage, try this. Wear eye protection. Cut off the component near the board, close to but not into the solder joint.
Then with a very clean, hot tip, touch the joint on the bottom side of the board and immediately tap the board sharply downward on some object below it, like a piece of wood, etc.
The solder and remaining component lead fragment will fall down out of the hole and leave a clean pad with an open hole (if you're lucky).
This can work well if you practice with an old board first. I've done this many times while upgrading old Dyna pcbs.
 
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the flux matters. but if you have to buy different fluxes to compare you end up with years worth of solder and 90% will be non preferred flux.
The brand is of no consequence.
eutectic 63/37 is universal, only the flux can change.
Some will recommend by brand, but really what they are recommending is the flux in that batch. The manufacturer may change the flux once every 10 years, or 5years or when fashionable "fads" arise..
If you buy from the "Manufacturer" then buy by flux. I use Wharton.
I have also got Wharton through RS and through Rapid.

Hi you mean that Wharton use a good flux composition ?
Good ! i will search for that then.
I do not like very much the brown color on solders. I prefer the shiny silver color.

I have a very old reel of 62/36/2 and it happened to be Wharton. When I had learned how to access the internet, I looked them up to discover the myriad of choices

Maybe it is just an obsession but my experience with this alloy has been fantastic.
A fanatic friend of mine when he finds some old amps he resolders again, without taking off the original solder, all the solderings with this solder.
He states that this improve the amps :eek::confused:
Thank you very much again.
Kind regards, gino
 
I've always used Ersin or Kester eutectic "no clean" types of solder, it leaves less mess. For minimal pcb damage,

Hi and thanks and yes this would be my main goal.
I have noticed that especially in commercial preamps traces are very very thin ... and i wonder why actually. I strongly prefer less parts and big ones.

try this. Wear eye protection. Cut off the component near the board,

this is indeed a very common and big issue with caps that they are in contact with the board usually. There are no exposed leads i mean.
This i like but i would like more space (not miles just a quarter of inch of space between one and the other, especially if they use miniature size).
I do not understand whythey pack them so thightly and then from them to the preamp circuit there is another foot or so ... this is even silly for me.
I like caps as close as possible to the utilizing circuits.

close to but not into the solder joint.
Then with a very clean, hot tip, touch the joint on the bottom side of the board and immediately tap the board sharply downward on some object below it, like a piece of wood, etc.
The solder and remaining component lead fragment will fall down out of the hole and leave a clean pad with an open hole (if you're lucky).
This can work well if you practice with an old board first.
I've done this many times while upgrading old Dyna pcbs.

I should receive a desoldering gun very soon. I have lost some passion in the recapping of the unit because i will have to stick with miniature type caps, that i hate profoundly.
They should be allowed only on digital ... by law
Thanks a lot again. Regards, gino
 
Youtube is your friend :)
Have you tried solder braid/ solder wick?

Hi ! no but I can tell you that I am done with this cheap desoldering pistol I have bought on ebay. :mad:
May it is a nozzle issue (suction hole too big ? ) but it does not work properly. :rolleyes:
So I think I am finally ready to test the solder braid concept :eek:
Any particular model/brand ? the copper type ?
Thanks a lot again, gino
 
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Hi ! no but I can tell you that I am done with this cheap desoldering pistol I have bought on ebay. :mad:
May it is a nozzle issue (suction hole too big ? ) but it does not work properly. :rolleyes:
So I think I am finally ready to test the solder braid concept :eek:
Any particular model/brand ? the copper type ?
Thanks a lot again, gino
I never succeded with desoldering pumps.
Desoldering braid works fine for me. Swisstone is a good brand, never buy this stuff at Conrad!
 
I never succeded with desoldering pumps.
Desoldering braid works fine for me.
Swisstone is a good brand, never buy this stuff at Conrad!

Hi and thanks a lot for the very valuable advice.
I have received lately a soldering iron very cheap from ebay ...
I used it yesterday for the first time ... fantastic !
I am using a fantastic alloy 62Sn/36Pb/2Ag ... I love this alloy.
It melts so easily.
I am little worried about the fumes by the way.

Desoldering instead is a real nightmare.

I like very very much recapping things ...
I have already risked to strip pcb traces that are often thin like hairs.
So I bought a cheap desoldering pump on ebay ... but I am not pleased at all.
I like when the cap drops from its place without having to pushing it.
For my goals desoldering is very critical.
I have never tried braid.
Thanks a lot indeed for the extremely helpful reply.
Kind regards, gino
 
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I use the desoldering pump to clear the solder from a hole.
I use a soldering iron to heat the component lead to remove the component. A 3lead, or more, component needs to be snipped off first (destroyed) to allow the individual leads to be unsoldered from the PCB.

I have never tried a one of those heat and suck machines.
I have desolder braid. I rarely use it. It does work for tidying up very close pin pitch of multipin SMD.
 
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I use the desoldering pump to clear the solder from a hole.
I use a soldering iron to heat the component lead to remove the component.
A 3lead, or more, component needs to be snipped off first (destroyed) to allow the individual leads to be unsoldered from the PCB.
I have never tried a one of those heat and suck machines.
I have desolder braid. I rarely use it.
It does work for tidying up very close pin pitch of multipin SMD.

Hi ! thank you sincerely for the very helpful advice.
With bigger diameter leads the electrical desoldering pump is ok. Nothing spectacular but it works.
Instead I have big problems with the smaller leads and traces.
So I understand that for this purpose the desolder braid is a good option ?
I could use both ... the pump for bigger parts and the braid for tiny parts.
If it is good for SMD it must be good also for this tiny caps I guess.
I have also an iron with a little larger tip that I could use to heat up the braid.
Issue solved.
Thanks a lot again, gino
 
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