What do you use to fill screw holes in wood?

[jerryo]

Yes, of course. But it needs to be done carefully to avoid removing any of the existing wood around the hole. Using a very sharp chisel is another way of removing the protruding stub of the dowel. Not by hammering though, instead use a slicing action with the back of the chisel flat against the wood and using your thumb as the driving force against the side of the chisel. This requires quite a lot of strength and control to do well and depends on how much of the dowel is left. On balance I would use the 2-pack filler but either way you will achieve the same end result, depending on your experience with the tools needed.

[tvrgeek]

As this is the tools forum, I would be a smart A** and say a putty knife, but that's no help. You say filler failed? How deep were the screw heads recessed? Was there enough wood in the countersink for the filler to grab? Wood filler is not designed to grab to metal.

I remove my screws and fill the holes. Modern glue or dowels are more than enough. Sometimes a pin nail or two.

Besides Bondo, there is a softer putty used for automotive touch ups called spot putty.

You don't BREAK off the dowel, you cut it off, shave with a chisel, and sand smooth.

[Cal Weldon]

If you haven't actually done the screwing, abandon them altogether. It's a slow and frustrating way to put boxes together, dowels or no dowels.
Get yourself a Brad nailer, some cleats and two bar clamps. That way there are no holes to worry about as you glue, clamp and nail through the cleats on the inside of the box. Release the clamps and move on to the next panel. Only the back panel has exposed nails and if you are veneering you don't have to fill the holes as the Brad nail heads are so small. If you paint, a dab of glue is more than enough to fill.

[simon7000]

Cal,

Some folks just don't want to spend the money and screws are a cheap way to get a tight joint.

If you want to use a dowel as a plug, be sure you have enough depth to hold it. Then cut the dowel to length before hammering it in. Stop when it is just slightly raised and then finish by planing or sanding.

A technique that works with soft woods is to wet the spot first, keep it wet for a few hours, then use a sharp chisel to lift a shaving but do not remove it! Now drill and screw under the shaving. Glue it back. Let it dry for a week or so and sand smooth.

Now what is impressive is no one said to mix saw dust with glue for a filler. That is an old trick recited by everyone who has never tried it! Glue doesn't stain or paint the same as wood, and even when you veneer over it, sometimes it shows through after a few years.

BTY My ceiling is still dry after April showers.... Thanks.

ES

P.S. Your second list by line website link doesn't seem to work.

[AuroraB]

[QUOTE=Cal Weldon;3010381]If you haven't actually done the screwing,,,,,,,/QUOTE]

but Cal, surely you do know that some guys just luuv' screwin'......???

[tvrgeek]

simon, post 2

[dangus]

I used the router to trim the plugs flush. Either with a ball-bearing flush trimmer bit, or just with a 1/4" straight bit set so it just barely scrapes the surface, usually with the router supported on an extended base and a block of MDF because the regular base wouldn't clear the neighbouring screw plugs. A router with a really small base (like a Dremel, or drywall cutter (if those come with bases)) would be easier.

[Cal Weldon]

Originally Posted by simon7000

Cal,
Some folks just don't want to spend the money and screws are a cheap way to get a tight joint.

Hi ES,
I would think they value their time, which ends up paying for the tools in the long run. If you are only ever going to make one set of speakers and have no other use for it, perhaps a Brad nailer is excessive. I use mine often. Paid for itself the first time I used it.

Now what is impressive is no one said to mix saw dust with glue for a filler.

I think Byron did in post #2 and yes it's a great filler.

BTY My ceiling is still dry after April showers.... Thanks.

Excellent. Glad you could look after that. Rubber can be frustrating.

P.S. Your second list by line website link doesn't seem to work.

Yes - part busy, part lazy. Must contact the guy again. You can still get to the old site once you click the link.

Cheers.

[simon7000]

Originally Posted by Cal Weldon

Hi ES,
I would think they value their time, which ends up paying for the tools in the long run. If you are only ever going to make one set of speakers and have no other use for it, perhaps a Brad nailer is excessive. I use mine often. Paid for itself the first time I used it.

I think Byron did in post #2 and yes it's a great filler.

Cheers.

I have a rule around the shop. You have to spend more on materials than you do on tools! Now if you are doing the work good tools are worth it. A brad nailer is a great tool to have.

Now that I mentioned the rule. I have small brad, large brad, wood staple, regular staple and framing guns. All paid for by the project they were purchased for. Of course I also have two table saws, two power miter boxes... All paid for by the small kinds of projects I do.

Now if you ever break down and try real wood you will find that glue and sawdust ruin it. I find it shows through lacquer finishes and even eventually comes through fine veneers. Now if you are using a glue like Gorilla glue, we should just quit talking!

[Cal Weldon]

Originally Posted by simon7000

I have small brad, large brad, wood staple, regular staple and framing guns.

You win. I have a mere three guns.

Of course I also have two table saws, two power miter boxes...

Ok E, yours is bigger.

Now if you ever break down and try real wood you will find that glue and sawdust ruin it.

That's when to consider dowelling.

Now if you are using a glue like Gorilla glue, we should just quit talking!

Nope, I only use yellow glue on wood (LePage Carpenter's). I posted a test of the different glues a while back. I'll see if I can find it. I think Gorilla came in last.