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-   -   Any opinions on this table saw for loudspeaker building? (http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/equipment-tools/211455-any-opinions-table-saw-loudspeaker-building.html)

Fusion916 24th April 2012 05:00 PM

Any opinions on this table saw for loudspeaker building?
 
After spending the weekend building a fairly loudspeaker with a circular saw I am not eager to repeat that experience. I was thinking about picking up this table saw:

10 in. 15-Amp Compact Job Site Table Saw-DW745 at The Home Depot

Decent price, good reviews on home depot but I'm sure none of these guys are using this to build speakers. Any opinions on how well this would work on speaker box design? Especially large ones?

multisync 24th April 2012 05:38 PM

A few years ago (12) I took a " how to make your own kitchen cabinets" course at a local college. I bought a cheap Craftex 10" 2HP 220volt cast Iron table saw ($600) with rollers on the stand. I have used it and abused it and abused it some more over the years and it is still running fine. If I was a cabinet maker it wouldn't be good enough. My brother has a cabinetmakers Delta something or other that he bought used. The Delta is a fantastic saw compared to mine, but the Delta fills half of his basement, he has extra large feed in and out tables so he can cut large sheets and boards without needing rollers. I fine tuned the Craftex saw and you should fine tune any table saw and found some very inexpensive surplus carbide blades over the years. I am pleased with the saw. With a small saw, small table and small fence, cutting large sheets will be a problem. With practice you will get better. I noticed the maximun width is 16" on the fence on the saw you were looking at. If you have the space an inexpensive table saw is better than a small portable saw. Unless of course you need a portable saw too!

Fusion916 24th April 2012 06:05 PM

I'm not worried about the 16" rip fence on the saw since if I need larger than 16" I'll measure in the other direction and just cut along the line. Anything else I need to look at?

aptquark 24th April 2012 06:06 PM

I have a Bosch TS...portable and comes with the wheel thingy to push around...its great, but let me tell you....get the biggest freaking thing you can find with a really good fence. Lowes carries a Porter Cable and it is perfect. Might too much for your budget...around 500. Not portable though.

luvdunhill 24th April 2012 06:31 PM

My advise would be to try again with the circular saw. In particular a track saw. Specifically a Festool. I think you'll find it easier than a table saw for speaker building.

dangus 25th April 2012 07:06 AM

If you don't have a router, get one. My strategy is to make rough cuts (oversized) with the Skilsaw, then trim to size with a router, using a straightedge or matching panel as a guide.

dchisholm 26th April 2012 02:47 AM

More discussion on this general topic at "What tools do I need to cut perfectly straight edges with a circular saw?" < www.diyaudio.com/forums/equipment-tools/210978-what-tools-do-i-need-cut-perfectly-straight-edges-circular-saw-2.html >.

Dale

tvrgeek 27th April 2012 08:55 PM

I find the small saws scare me to death. Good straight edge and a skill saw, then router. I eventually bought a real table saw, jointer, planer.......

Tristanc1 17th June 2012 02:09 PM

I've used the Dewalt on the job site and it's a nice little saw. What I would recommend would be to build a solid 'outfeed table' to go behind the saw, especially when you're cutting up sheet goods like mdf/ply it really increases the safety and ease of use of your saw. Those contractor saws are essentially made for cutting 3/4" material of any kind, they don't have the horses to cut hardwood over 1" thick or so, but can chop up panels all day.

There's a Ridgid TS I've owned before as well, once again it's a back of the truck kind of saw, but it was a champ and I believe it's $100-200 less than the dewalt, might give you some extra money for a new router or something...

richie00boy 17th June 2012 02:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fusion916 (Post 2999293)
I'm not worried about the 16" rip fence on the saw since if I need larger than 16" I'll measure in the other direction and just cut along the line. Anything else I need to look at?

That's what I thought, but it's quite hard to get the line perfectly true to the saw blade at the start, and once you hit the blade you can't skew the wood to get it back on track.

Also manhandling large sheets of wood on the table is difficult. I'm now considering making some kind of long fence I can put on sheets and use the hand circular saw and sell the table saw. The table saw would probably be OK for small speakers, but still the fence on mine (which is a midrange one) is quite poor at staying to 90 degrees.


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