Any opinions on this table saw for loudspeaker building? - Page 2 - diyAudio
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Old 17th June 2012, 05:21 PM   #11
AuroraB is offline AuroraB  Norway
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Even if I've had access to large TS's for decades, I'd always rip the sheets to managable pieces first, and then true them up on the table saw - then you don't really need a very large table saw.
The ripping part can easily be done with a regular circular saw and a good straight edge, - track saws are expensive as it is......
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Old 17th June 2012, 07:22 PM   #12
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IF ur doing only thin/tower type speakers then a smaller saw is ok. But no matter what you will need to extend the table and the rails, because sooner or later you will want to cut something wider...

So the suggestion of the rail type guide for the hand held circular saw has some merit - that and a really sharp blade...

Routers are good too, but make a lot of noise and sawdust...

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Old 18th June 2012, 02:27 AM   #13
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If you do get a smaller saw, change the blade to a thin kerf 7.25". It's easier on the saw (read better torque) and you rarely need the cutting depth of a 10" when making speaker cabinets. If you need wider than 16" cuts use your skill saw and a sawboard.
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Old 18th June 2012, 04:18 AM   #14
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The other thing is the finer blades/higher tooth count and the 'cuda blade style (iirc) have less rip out and chipping... fwiw.
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Old 18th June 2012, 07:33 AM   #15
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I got an Irwin 80 tooth 10 inch blade from Lowes while in the USA on business and it is really good. I had to get a friend with a milling machine to enlarge the centre hole to fit on my european table saw, but obviously that won't be a problem for you!
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Old 21st June 2012, 09:25 PM   #16
klewis is offline klewis  United States
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For cutting large sheets of wood, a table saw is tough to work with without big infeed and out feed tables. That's where the Festool circular saw is great for getting sheets down to size. What I did before owning all this equipment was have the lumber yard rip and cross cut sheets down to managable sizes of about 4' x 2', then rip and crosscut on my table saw. For crosscutting, build a "sled", don't try to do it with a miter fence. For the table saw itself, a good sturdy fence is critical, if the fence is not robust, it will move out of alignment and frustrate your efforts.

Look into used 10 inch cabinet saws, two or three hp, Celta with unifence or Powermatic. Also a bit obscure, but the Inca 10inch cabinet saw is a nice machine with a small footprint.
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Old 21st June 2012, 10:13 PM   #17
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Track saws are great but they still depend on how well you can mark and cut to a line...They cut straight once you get there though, but there can be quite a bit of wiggle room unless you get something like the Festool MFT to go with it, but then we're into crazy money territory for a pretty specialized tool..Just my $0.02.

Most home centres, big orange etc, carry project panels anyways, they're a bit more expensive but much easier to manage at only 2'X4'.
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