crimping tool crimper

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Is there a crimping tool that would cost about $7 or $8 that DOES NOT have a cutter on it? :confused:

(I looked at everything I could on amazon.com and don't get it. I read in "Electronics for Dummies that it's ideal to buy a seperate cutter/stripper and crimper. But, if I bought a $14 stripper/cutter, if it costs me more than a certain amount for a seperate crimper, then I'm better off returning my stripper/cutter and buying the $23 stripper/cutter/crimper.)

Alternatively, could you use a pair of Vise-Grips or needlenose pliers or the end of a pair of cutter/stripper pliers to crimp on terminal disconnectors?
 
There are about a bazillion different crimpers. What kind of connector are you trying to connect ? After working in broadcast for 35 years I can tell you cheap crimpers really aren't worth the trouble. My snap n seal crimper for RF 'F' connectors was $28 and the companion stripper was another $18. I consider that on the cheap side. My Belden 1505 / Kings BNC crimper as about $60 and the coax stripper was another $60.

If do a mickey mouse crimp with pliers it's only to hold it for the soldering iron.

 
There are about a bazillion different crimpers. What kind of connector are you trying to connect ? After working in broadcast for 35 years I can tell you cheap crimpers really aren't worth the trouble. My snap n seal crimper for RF 'F' connectors was $28 and the companion stripper was another $18. I consider that on the cheap side. My Belden 1505 / Kings BNC crimper as about $60 and the coax stripper was another $60.

If do a mickey mouse crimp with pliers it's only to hold it for the soldering iron.


At this point, I'm considering returning the stripper/cutter and getting a stripper/cutter/crimper. Will a crimper on a combination tool like that work in an acceptable way?
 
the cable/connector crimpers generally require enormous force from the enclosing jaws to squeeze the metal of the connector down to the size of the compressed cable such that the cable screen is trapped between metal surfaces that exclude air from the joint semi permanently.

The jaws are usually a Hexagonal shape (two halves of a hex) and very close to the hinge in the tool.

Wire strippers cannot generally be obtained that can do that coax crimping job.

There are other crimper tools available for non coax connectors.
 
What kind of crimper are you talking about?

There are coax crimpers like Andrew described. SOme of those cost several hundred dollars, are ratcheting, and control the crimping force. I have a real cheap coax crimp, and I have to admit it doesn;t work very well.

But most of my crimping is one of two things. One is terminals like fork-lugs, and also wire splices. And the other is crimp-on connector pins for insertion into plastic connector housings - Molex connectors. I have a couple inexpensive hand crimpers for those that work well enough for me.

As to the cutters, most basic inexpensive hand crimpers I see include stripping jaws on the inside edge of the handles. I never use them, and as far as I am concerned the tools I have are just for crimping. I have a nice Paladin wire stripper for stripping. It works faster, easier, and better than those things. Same with the wire cutter feature, they stuck a cutter blade on each crimper to make it more marketable, but I have plenty of good cutters, and never use the ones on my crimpers.

MY cheap Waldom crimper for Molex, and a cheap Vaco for terminals. I have had these for 35-40 years now, and they are still working fine for my needs.

And there are different crimpers for things like BNC pins and other connector types.
 
OK, whoops, I forgot to be more specific. I'll try to include links/photos.

Just to clarify, right now I have a cutter/stripper and am wondering whether I would be better off returning it and getting a cutter/stripper/crimper like this:

http://www.rona.ca/shop/~strippercrimper-gardner-bender-470605_!gardner-bender_shop

or keep the cutter/stripper and use a more specific tool for crimping like this:

http://www.amazon.ca/GB-GS-388-8-Inch-Crimping-Electrical/dp/B00079LN1Y/ref=sr_1_30?ie=UTF8&qid=1334448574&sr=8-30

for attaching terminal disconnectors on 14 ga wire that look like this:

http://www.solen.ca/pub/cms_nf_catalogue_fiche.php?id=53&recherche=&numRows=&manufacturiers=&niveau1=1&niveau2=2&niveau3=45

and the wire:

http://www.solen.ca/pub/cms_nf_catalogue_fiche.php?id=1617&recherche=&numRows=&manufacturiers=&niveau1=1&niveau2=2&niveau3=53

By the way, is that acceptable wire for speakers?

Or, would it be acceptable to use a Vise-Grip or needlenose plier to crimp?
 

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I would suggest staying with separate crimpers and strippers.

there is mothing worse than a bad pair of crimping tools.

The ratchet ones are the best, and make sure you are buying a set that will crimp the whole area in one hit.

As an aircraft engineer, most of our wire terminations are crimped, the days of solder sockets are long gone. We have all strange types of crimp tools.

Its all in the technique that will make a good crimp, and a quality terminal as well.

A terminal thats designed to crimp onto wire insulation will give the best stress relief on the wire and not allow the conductors to slip out.

choosing the right crimp and crimping tool for the job is also important.

For home the 2 ones I use most are
Red, blue Yellows, These will crimp most of your terminals like the spades you posted above, will do them in one hit. The colours line up to the size crimp you use, generally there is an industry standard with the colour lining up to a size terminal.
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=TH1829&form=CAT2&SUBCATID=954#1

These crimp those terminals that have the U shaped ends and crimp down in to the M shape, cant remember the technical name of them, they are not a common on aircraft, Most the stuff uses the above crimpers or specialist gear.

Those two would be a nice basic and cheap decent tool set, The next step above would be going for ratchet crimpers with an interchangeable die set.
Crimping Tool for Non-Insulated Lugs - Jaycar Electronics
 
The 8" crimper is the way to go. That same tool is sold under umpteen brand names (T&B, Klein). It has plenty of leverage. In a pinch there are some stamped crimp tools that are almost tolerable: I got one at an autoparts store because it had the ignition wire terminal crimp on it. And the stamped Molex crimp tools are fine if you need that style.

For stripping, I use a K. Miller model 100 stripper/cutter (like the Klein 1003); you can leave it adjusted for small gauges and judge the pressure by feel, so strip any size wire without worrying about which notch to use, or adjusting the setting.
 
Well, thanks everyone for the help. At one point, I bought a cutter/stripper thinking I would get a crimper later on. I couldn't find one that I wanted to buy. So, I ended up returning the cutter/stripper and bought a cutter/stripper, crimper; the Gardner Bender GESP-70.
GARDNER BENDER (GB ELECTRICAL) GESP-70 8-24 WIRE STRIPPER - Tool Catalog - Electrical - Electrical Hand Tools

I works. The only thing I didn't know from the start though is that it seems better to crimper with the round part the side of the fold of the terminals. At least I first tried on a cheap pair of drivers. :)
 
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I use those cutter/crimpers on a daily basis at my job.
I have a separate set of T-Strippers, 2 sets to cover 28awg to 10awg.

I find that I have much lower warranty rate when I have a dedicated stripper because it is much better built and doesn't nick the wires or accidentally cut strands off.
 
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