Hi folks
This is my first post on the forum and I'd like to say hello to everyone if i may. I was wondering if people could give me some advice on which solder i should buy and the best (cheapest) place to buy it from in the UK please.
Im fairly new to electronics and soldering in general, so basically im starting from scratch. I've been saving up for a bit now and im about to purchase a nice JBC soldering station, and have been aquiring various other tools that i think i will need such as Lindstrom cutters, ck tweezers, magnifying glass, helping third hand etc. And i've been watching EEVBLOG's soldering tutorials on youtube.
My plan is to buy a diy amplifier kit to start with, and I would like to have a good stock of solder to last into the future so i want to make the right choices. I was thinking it might be a good idea to get various types such as:
Multicore 60/40 (0.5mm) 250g
Multicore 63/37 (0.5mm) 250g
and possibly a smaller amount of cardas quad eutectic
However there seem to be a lot of slightly different specs in those solders and its a bit confusing which variations i should go for ie percentage of flux, no clean, number of cores etc and i notice that some are cheaper than others even though they appear to be identical in specs/brand (from the same website)
So if anyone can give me some advice on exactly which to go for, what not to go for, and where from for best price with links, I'd really appreciate it please bearing in mind i'm in the UK.
Thanks
This is my first post on the forum and I'd like to say hello to everyone if i may. I was wondering if people could give me some advice on which solder i should buy and the best (cheapest) place to buy it from in the UK please.
Im fairly new to electronics and soldering in general, so basically im starting from scratch. I've been saving up for a bit now and im about to purchase a nice JBC soldering station, and have been aquiring various other tools that i think i will need such as Lindstrom cutters, ck tweezers, magnifying glass, helping third hand etc. And i've been watching EEVBLOG's soldering tutorials on youtube.
My plan is to buy a diy amplifier kit to start with, and I would like to have a good stock of solder to last into the future so i want to make the right choices. I was thinking it might be a good idea to get various types such as:
Multicore 60/40 (0.5mm) 250g
Multicore 63/37 (0.5mm) 250g
and possibly a smaller amount of cardas quad eutectic
However there seem to be a lot of slightly different specs in those solders and its a bit confusing which variations i should go for ie percentage of flux, no clean, number of cores etc and i notice that some are cheaper than others even though they appear to be identical in specs/brand (from the same website)
So if anyone can give me some advice on exactly which to go for, what not to go for, and where from for best price with links, I'd really appreciate it please bearing in mind i'm in the UK.
Thanks
Hi, curious to know what brand and type you use? normal or no clean/low flux?
Another thing worth mentioning is that I have a professional 5ltr ultrasonic cleaning machine, so should i be considering no-clean / water soluable type flux over normal stuff?
I realise that probably any decent solder will do, but it would be good to get the best variation from the off...
Does anyone know if this place is selling legit Cardas solder?
Cardas Quad Eutectic Solder 1 lb Roll
Cardas Quad Eutectic Solder 1 lb Roll
Yes it is legal, it is still used for high reliability designs.
Eutectic Sn/Pb 63/37 gives the best joints has been used for years, is reliable and is easiest to use for a beginer, less chance of a dry joint.
You wont hear any difference between any solder, unless you use the solder to make cables.
Or this if you wanna a bit of bling, its got silver:
Buy Solders Sn-Pb-Ag low melting point solder,1.22mm Multicore 291335 online from RS for next day delivery.
The SnPbAgC solders are also produced by others, often known as tip savers, as the added copper limited the migration of copper from the soldering iron tip.
Eutectic Sn/Pb 63/37 gives the best joints has been used for years, is reliable and is easiest to use for a beginer, less chance of a dry joint.
You wont hear any difference between any solder, unless you use the solder to make cables.
Or this if you wanna a bit of bling, its got silver:
Buy Solders Sn-Pb-Ag low melting point solder,1.22mm Multicore 291335 online from RS for next day delivery.
The SnPbAgC solders are also produced by others, often known as tip savers, as the added copper limited the migration of copper from the soldering iron tip.
Even cheaper! thanks for the link.... I've emailed them about shipping to UK.
Hey Marce, thanks for your information...
I've searched all over for 63/37 multicore solder and its like rocking horse **** over here... where can i get some of that from in a thin size? also is that silver multicore as good as the cardas stuff?
Cheers
I have used Alpha Metals. I think the two rolls I used were Telecore and Reliacore solders. I think the latter is what I'm currently using IIRC. I bought them as they were the only 63/37 solder that I was able to get my hands on over here. They both work well for my uses.
I also have a small roll of solder that contains silver. For those odd jobs of soldering silver plated contacts (ceramic transducers and solar cells) as they don't dissolve the silver plated contact surfaces.
For cleaning flux, I just use IPA and a toothbrush.
Having measured the distortion quality of solder joints. I think multicore mildly active rosin core .032" 63/37 solder is probably the best all around choice.
I actually buy a locally made product. But those are the specs I look for. I find .062 solder kind of chunky except for some older style connectors and I do have .015 for small surface mount stuff.
I also have bar solder but some is used for the solder pot (tinning standed wire ends of cables) some is used for metal working (sealing shielded cans) and some gets painted gold for gag gifts!
I actually buy a locally made product. But those are the specs I look for. I find .062 solder kind of chunky except for some older style connectors and I do have .015 for small surface mount stuff.
I also have bar solder but some is used for the solder pot (tinning standed wire ends of cables) some is used for metal working (sealing shielded cans) and some gets painted gold for gag gifts!
I just been reading a thread on another forum regarding the cardas, and it seems to get a lot of favour by those who have actually used it for a length of time ...
Cardas Solder - AudioKarma.org Home Audio Stereo Discussion Forums
Like you say, i think it be a good idea to source a couple of 1lb spools of that stuff from the US, and get some decent multicore 63/37 for general work and not bother with 60/40.
Good advice, thanks
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Hi stargeezerme,
Just my two cents on this, whatever you do don't buy lead free stuff! It is absolutely horrible and I have a roll of the stuff still sitting unused since I bought it from Maplin ages ago. Unfortunately, this is the only type that Maplin sells now, but I quickly found an alternative.
Although the general consensus is that 63/37 is better, I have had very good results with this 60/40 solder from Rapid:
Rapid Electronics Solder - 60/40 Tin/Lead
The 100g roll has lasted me for around 2 years (genuinely) and if you want to stretch to it, you could go for the 0.5kg rolls which would probably last for eternity! Also, even though it is only 60/40, as long as the board is free of oxidation and any fingerprints, then it gives excellent results-having a clean board applies to pretty much any solder anyway. Bearing in mind too, this is only with a basic Antex iron as well.
Just my two cents on this, whatever you do don't buy lead free stuff! It is absolutely horrible and I have a roll of the stuff still sitting unused since I bought it from Maplin ages ago. Unfortunately, this is the only type that Maplin sells now, but I quickly found an alternative.
Although the general consensus is that 63/37 is better, I have had very good results with this 60/40 solder from Rapid:
Rapid Electronics Solder - 60/40 Tin/Lead
The 100g roll has lasted me for around 2 years (genuinely) and if you want to stretch to it, you could go for the 0.5kg rolls which would probably last for eternity! Also, even though it is only 60/40, as long as the board is free of oxidation and any fingerprints, then it gives excellent results-having a clean board applies to pretty much any solder anyway. Bearing in mind too, this is only with a basic Antex iron as well.
Hi there,
That's exactly the situation i want to avoid, hence asking for advice from experienced people, even though its yet another "best solder question".
I guess it all depend on the type of components you will be soldering as to what will be most suitable, in my case that will be new diy audio components, pre & power amps, speaker crossovers, binding posts, audio cables and some electrical stuff such as pwm speed controllers etc.
I'm hoping that soniccraft can oblige my specific shipping requests otherwise I may have to use a parcel forwarding service so that i have control over certain aspects. If anyone else is interested in buying a 1lb spool of that solder in the UK and combining an order together, splitting the costs then send me a pm and we can discuss it.
$53 (1lb) compared to £22 (100 g)
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Lead free solder melts starting at 430 F for tin silver and higher for other alloys. 63/37 melts at 361F. So for lead free you need more heat. It also does not flow like lead solders so you must use less for each joint. Then don't expect the joints to look the same as lead solder. They are not as smooth and shiny. So lots of folks who look at the joints and are used to lead solders often think the lead free connections are "Cold" when they actually are as good as you will get with lead solder.
The advantage of 63/37 is that it changes from liquid to solid faster than 60/40 this results in fewer "cold" joints. Of course those with decent skill will probably not notice a difference.
I pay under $45 for a one pound roll of flux core .032" 63/37. The lead free tin silver copper runs $112 a pound!
The advantage of 63/37 is that it changes from liquid to solid faster than 60/40 this results in fewer "cold" joints. Of course those with decent skill will probably not notice a difference.
I pay under $45 for a one pound roll of flux core .032" 63/37. The lead free tin silver copper runs $112 a pound!
I've ordered from Sonic Craft before. Nice guys. Sometimes takes a day or two for them to get back to you. They have a lot of goodies.
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