I installed brand new bits and the iron heats up fine but the solder wont stick to the tip of the iron. It just rolls up into a ball and falls off. Usually what should happen is the tip should be coated with a thick blob of solder all over the surface.
I tried scratching the bit onto a brick and that actually made it worse.
What can I do? is it beyond repair?
I tried scratching the bit onto a brick and that actually made it worse.
What can I do? is it beyond repair?
Since you have rubbed the tip against stone, it is now ruined and you'll need to replace it. It has a thin layer on top, and without that, it won't work. Only clean with a sponge, wet rag or paper. If it isn't replaceable, you can get a new soldering iron for about €5 online. They are very cheap.
I've never used a soldering iron where the solder sticks to the tip. It always rolls off like you explained. That's normal. You're supposed to apply the solder to the pcb or wire or whatever it is you're soldering on - not the actual iron. That's only used for heating up the spot. Judging from what I've read in old books, etc - things were different in the past.
I've never used a soldering iron where the solder sticks to the tip. It always rolls off like you explained. That's normal. You're supposed to apply the solder to the pcb or wire or whatever it is you're soldering on - not the actual iron. That's only used for heating up the spot. Judging from what I've read in old books, etc - things were different in the past.
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We always had to "tin" the tips of our soldering irons. Otherwise, they deteriorated rapidly. But I believe that it was always a thin layer, not a thick blob. A couple of years ago I bought a small can of tip tinner, at Radio Shack. After the iron is hot, I just push the tip down into the paste-like contents of the can, once, and the tip is perfectly tinned.
It wasn't really a "can"; more like a "tin", shorter than it is wide and with a top half that pulls off, i.e. similar to but much smaller than the ones that usually contain snuff, or shoe polish.
I believe it is also for cleaning the tip.
It wasn't really a "can"; more like a "tin", shorter than it is wide and with a top half that pulls off, i.e. similar to but much smaller than the ones that usually contain snuff, or shoe polish.
I believe it is also for cleaning the tip.
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ok so first of all what is tinning? I dont need all the details I just want to know what it does? I have seen such tip tinners in small pots. And if its a brand new tip why wont it work straight away?
When I tried using a desoldering wick on a joint, the joint wouldn't melt and the wick just stuck to the joint. This is not supposed to happen. What's wrong?
When I tried using a desoldering wick on a joint, the joint wouldn't melt and the wick just stuck to the joint. This is not supposed to happen. What's wrong?
what kind of running in? and if it isnt getting hot enough, wouldnt that prevent the solder melting? It does melt but you have to push the solder onto the tip and then it melts quickly. I'm using lead free solder. But this isnt how I remember it to be. Usually the solder would melt instantly just by touching the iron tip, not pushing hard. And you could see that the tip has a nice coating to it.
Yes, that is one of the keys. Good solder. I bought several pounds of Kester back in the 80's. My thought is that I will lose it before I get to use all of what I have.
I believe someone mentioned this before, DON'T sand down the tip! The tips are plated with materials, iron I think, used to achieve the "wetting" process required for a repeatedly consistent solder joint.
that is a sign that your iron is not hot enough. especially that lead free solder needs a higher iron temp to melt.
Yes, the tips are plated with iron IIRC. It is for protecting the copper core. without it, the tip would be eaten away and dissolved by the solder.
I always buy Antex (other brands will follow this ideology).
Two things fail on a soldering iron. (1) The element (heater) will eventually fail. and (2) The tip will no longer be useable. (Either because it is abused, old or just the wrong size).
With Antex everything is easily replaceable.
A new 17W Antex iron is about £15. It's money well spent as the tips are commonly available and easily changed. When an element gives up the ghost you can either replace the iron or the element, the cost difference is minimal - but you can still use the great collection of tips that you have collected.
I'm sure there are loads of brands that offer the same continuity.
I often switch between tiny tips for SMD soldering and huge tips for PSU soldering.
Keep the tips clean with a damp sponge and regularly tin them with fresh solder - they will last for years.
Two things fail on a soldering iron. (1) The element (heater) will eventually fail. and (2) The tip will no longer be useable. (Either because it is abused, old or just the wrong size).
With Antex everything is easily replaceable.
A new 17W Antex iron is about £15. It's money well spent as the tips are commonly available and easily changed. When an element gives up the ghost you can either replace the iron or the element, the cost difference is minimal - but you can still use the great collection of tips that you have collected.
I'm sure there are loads of brands that offer the same continuity.
I often switch between tiny tips for SMD soldering and huge tips for PSU soldering.
Keep the tips clean with a damp sponge and regularly tin them with fresh solder - they will last for years.
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