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Old 3rd January 2012, 10:58 PM   #11
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So far I've very good luck with just the cheap Harbor Tool bits. Safety is not so much an issue given the inherent small size. The big door making bits I have a speed control for. Only problems I've had so far was having a guide bearing on a quarter round over fall apart. Replaced it with a real bearing from a bearing house and still using the bit.

A lot of bad safety press over carbide bits came from the early days of saw blades when they weren't near as good at bonding carbide tips to the ends. When they'd break off they'd turn into missles. I still always wear a face sheild when using one. BUT I do own and regularly use up to a 60 tooth 10" carbide tooth from Harbor Tool and a bunch of 40 tooth. Three different sets of router tools. All cut just fine.

P.S. ALWAYS scan old wood with a metal detector. If you hit a steel nail or worse sheet rock screw, then all bets are off on how safe carbide tools are.
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Old 5th January 2012, 03:37 PM   #12
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Yeah, I need some router bits too. I bought a black and decker plunging router.
I'd like to try my hand at woodworking and speaker building.

How many bits do I need and what type?
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Old 5th January 2012, 03:46 PM   #13
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Default Bits and bits.

Merlin,

No ill will intended but router bits are kinda job specific...... depends upon what you have in mind. Look to your proposed project as a guide.

Very much the analog to I need to drill a hole, what size bit do I need if you get my meaning.

In a very general sense maybe a set of rounding over bits, a couple pattern cutting bits with follower bearings. Veining tool, lock miter set.... the list goes on.
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Old 5th January 2012, 03:57 PM   #14
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Yes, I know there are hundreds of them. But I've been looking at Lee Valley, and I definitely need a straight bit 3/4", other bits may come in handy.

But, I'll mainly be plunging out speaker holes. I don't know if I should get some joinery bits.
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Old 5th January 2012, 04:35 PM   #15
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I'd say minimum would be 1/4" 1/2" & 3/4" straight cut. One, 1/2" straight trim with end bearing, Sharp and broad round over with end bearings. Straight cuts for any thickness of wood you wish to dado for. Maybe a laminate trimmer with end bearing and a dovetail bit. If you don't have a biscuit jointer I'd definately get a bit for that as well. (Slot cutter)
I'd also get a template follower ring.

If you want to try the exotic shapes, buy a cheap set. You'll use them far less so wearing out sooner won't really be an issue. Just watch them end bearings on the cheap sets. Known to come apart. Not particularly dangerous but it could muck up a project.

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Old 5th January 2012, 05:13 PM   #16
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I bought some ebay bits 9 years that worked fine and I still use them. I don't use them often but I do use them. I bought a panel set to make oak kitchen cabinets and had no real problem. I also bought a set of 20 various 1/2 inch bits in a nice little box that cost less than a couple of bits at lee Valley. I am making some party speakers for my son and I did go out and buy a down spiral bit to trim the edges of the oak cabinets and to cut out the speaker circles. If you don't do wood working often, cheap is ok for me anyways. If you do it everyday to put food on the table that's another matter. I live in Ottawa so Lee valley is here as well as Busy Bee. I have spent small fortunes at both places. Suprising thing Busy Bee sells Veritas( lee valley brand) for less than at the lee valley store. Go figure. Regardless of quality wear safety devices always.
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Old 5th January 2012, 05:37 PM   #17
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I've got both the door making and panel set, in truth I hardly ever used them. That panel set is huge, so I bought an add on speed control to run them slower. Best odd add on is probably the slot cutter. Biscuits add a great deal of strength to any joint.
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Old 5th January 2012, 05:43 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by merlin2069er View Post
Yes, I know there are hundreds of them. But I've been looking at Lee Valley, and I definitely need a straight bit 3/4", other bits may come in handy.

But, I'll mainly be plunging out speaker holes. I don't know if I should get some joinery bits.

If you mean routing round openings with a commercial jig like the Jasper (great gadget) it's calibrated for 1/4" diameter - get a 2 flute spiral up-mill bit

For a shop made compass type jig, then a 1/2" plunge bit will make quicker work of it, particularly if you want to rebate for flush mounting of round frames.

For cleaning of plywood / MDF edge overhangs , veneer / plastic laminate, etc., a 1/4" flush trim (tip mounted bearing) is a good all purpose size.

Once you decide to get fancy with edge profiles, the sky's the limit - some of the larger profile bits can cost well over $100; so ya gotta be sure it'll get used - or that you can somehow justify the expense. "Gee honey, the material break-out on the drawings I got from the internet wasn't quite right and I had to buy an extra sheet of veneer" - not "yup, that 1 1/2" round-over bit was bloody expensive, but see how nice that 6 feet of edge looks"

Ryan - keep it in mind
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Old 5th January 2012, 06:11 PM   #19
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Thanks.

I've got this black and decker router.

http://www.blackanddecker.com/power-tools/RP250.aspx

It's got built in rails so I should be able to plunge out smaller holes with it.

As for bigger 12" or 15" openings (I think I'll start with an open baffle pair) wouldn't that jasper jig be too small?
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Old 6th January 2012, 06:10 PM   #20
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For myself, merlin, I have found that a good flush trimming bit is key. That's the big item I'm looking to buy. I want a 1/2" shank with at least 1.5" trimming length. It won't be cheap, but I find once the box is built, I use my crappy 1/4" shank, 1/2" long trimmer a lot. And it's getting irritating (and dull). I like the looks of the spiral bits, for trimming and cut outs. Would likely do the best job. Very expensive though.

I'd also like to get a 3/4 or 1" round over. Probably a 3/4" though. Seems that extra 1/4" costs a lot

What does a biscuit joiner do???
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