Filing SRBP boards / used shears - diyAudio
Go Back   Home > Forums > Design & Build > Equipment & Tools

Equipment & Tools From test equipment to hand tools

Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.

Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 14th August 2011, 06:59 AM   #1
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Default Filing SRBP boards / used shears

I am interested to know what is the best type of file for filing edges of rough cut SRBP boards. Is a dreadnought file any better. Does anyone know a used source of PCB shears. Does anyone use an Exakt saw for cutting PCBs.
  Reply With Quote
Old 14th August 2011, 09:10 AM   #2
marce is offline marce  United Kingdom
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Blackburn, Lancs
Are you cutting unpopulated boards?
For FR4 based products tend to route out the board using a fish tail milling bit, or use bacon slicer type cutter. The routing option is best for populated boards, especially with SMD components as it puts the least stress on these components.
The dust is not very nice if you have to file them, again if unpopulated do it wet, keeps the dust down and increases life of tool, I use diamond files, again the glass makes PCB. For phenolic paper, I've used all sorts, but quite often wet and dry paper taped to a flat surface, I could experiment with different grits to cater for different qualitys of SRBP.
I always found gentle was best, but havn't used phenolic paper since the early 90's, so my experience with it is not recent
Exakt saws with the correct blade work, sawing is also less stressful than sheering.

Last edited by marce; 14th August 2011 at 09:23 AM.
  Reply With Quote
Old 14th August 2011, 09:24 AM   #3
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Yes, just unpopulated boards.
  Reply With Quote
Old 14th August 2011, 10:05 AM   #4
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Just found the rest of the reply. I take your point - not nice to file boards but covers up bad sawing. I need tiny boards cut 10x30mm for bolt together prototyping construction like Radionic kits.*A shear would be ideal and quick but maybe get an Exakt later. Interested to hear that sawing was actually less stressfull.
  Reply With Quote
Old 15th August 2011, 11:28 AM   #5
marce is offline marce  United Kingdom
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Blackburn, Lancs
Quite often PCB's are panelised with 2-10+ PCB's per panel, some SMD components (MLCC's) can be damaged by the stress of de-panelising PCB's.
These type are quite bad (bacon slicers):
http://www.pts.com.sg/pdf_files/V_Gr...iserDP1800.pdf
Laser routers are best, though for an unpopulated board it isn't as critical.
http://www.lpkfusa.com/datasheets/microline/ml350ci.pdf
  Reply With Quote
Old 15th August 2011, 01:32 PM   #6
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Interesting.
  Reply With Quote
Old 8th October 2011, 04:42 PM   #7
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
marce - have you tried removing material with an abrasive block - are they simular to wet and dry. you have got me thinking.
  Reply With Quote
Old 8th October 2011, 08:36 PM   #8
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
I have solved the problem of cutting tiny PCBs neatly - MINIATURE MITRE BOX AND RAZOR SAW.
  Reply With Quote
Old 13th October 2011, 08:51 PM   #9
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Razor saws are awsome, but even on SRBP boards, you'll soon either have to resharpen it, or replace the blade (they're usually replaced). I used to use them for FR4... which gave me around 5 cuts because it was compeltely blunt.

Although its time consuming, for large boards/cuts, I use a snapped off craft knife to score a line in the copper, and on the other side. Because the tip of the blade is snapped off, it starts to 'gouge' a thin trench, which means that when you break the pieces over the edge of a table, its generally clean. Then a few strokes with a needle file, and its done.

For FR4, the 'score n snap' method is much more forgiving, as it generally breaks along a relatively clean line, but SRBP requires deeper scoring.

Failing that, a dremel with a mini circular saw works wonders for non-FR4 boards, I use that when I have to break up a panel of 10+ boards of different sizes.
  Reply With Quote
Old 16th October 2011, 03:29 AM   #10
dangus is offline dangus  Canada
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Vancouver Island
If you have to resort to filing, laying the file flat on the work surface and pushing the board back and forth makes for a smooth finish. Emery cloth on a smooth hard surface also works.

A sheet-metal shop might allow you to use a foot-operated shear if you have a whole lot of boards to do. A box of donuts (or other pastry as appropriate) might be sufficient payment. When I sheared glass-epoxy boards, the edges were rough enough that I still filed them smooth.
  Reply With Quote

Reply


Hide this!Advertise here!
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
F5 clone boards (inc PSU boards) Tazzz Swap Meet 39 7th June 2014 07:02 AM
L/R Boards and Matched IRFP240 Boards for Aleph/ A-X lgreen Swap Meet 7 25th August 2009 04:56 AM
FS: Conrad Heatsinks;.... 'PASS' B1 boards w/JFETS;...... F4 AMP & PSU boards cowboy99 Swap Meet 5 25th August 2009 02:39 AM
Pass Aleph 1.7 boards, Zhaolu 2.5A, P700 VRDS, UGS PS boards, dac chips analog_sa Swap Meet 4 14th March 2009 05:29 PM
FT: Pass boards for P101 boards bjefferys Swap Meet 1 26th March 2006 07:39 PM


New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 04:31 PM.


vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2014 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright 1999-2014 diyAudio

Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.3.2