Is a 60w solder iron strong enough for electronic soldering?

rg12 · 12th August 2010, 05:56 PM

I need to solder and desolder some resistors and capacitors.
I have a new 60w basic solder iron, is it ok for that use? my previous
one was 30w.

timpert · 12th August 2010, 06:17 PM

A 60W soldering iron might be a tad too much if it is not temperature regulated. For basic PCB soldering, something around 25W is more appropriate. Higher powered irons are often seen used in electronics, but most of the time these are temperature regulated. Otherwise, you'll quickly fry your board and the components on it.

indianajo · 01:12 PM

Yeah, if you bought the 60w because the 30w was too slow, buy a chisel tip for the 30w iron. Chisel tip is a cylinder right out to the very end, which is flat and about 3 mm wide and .5 mm thick. If your 30w iron is not supported by different tips, buy a Weller WP25. Get the tip on the same freight order, it comes with a useless pointy tip, too.
If you bought the 60 because the silver solder won't melt-join the club, it doesn't work very well. I use 65/35 tin lead, which is practally banned in Europe because of all the lead shielded KCRT's businesses dumped in the landfills. Update your profile, your location matters on what advice you get. If you live in Europe you need a very expensive iron, although wave soldering by professionals works better. (and is why big companies are in favor of the lead solder ban, repairmen can't afford wave soldering).

Andrew Eckhardt · 14th August 2010, 02:03 PM

An unregulated 60 watt iron is good for for very high speed work, especially on large connections.

Even a 45 watt iron can be too hot for PC board work, but with a little care it makes clean connections quickly.

30 is actually quite useful and relatively maintenance free if good enough quality. Avoid anything with a set screw for the tip.

aptquark · 14th August 2010, 02:06 PM

I would go for a smaller wattage gun in your case....for me...I use a 2000 watt. I just want the gun to LOOK at the joint and solder it. Less issues that way.

star882 · 16th August 2010, 06:07 PM

I use a 60W Hakko with a light dimmer to adjust the power. Full power for large connections, throttle back for PCB work.

DF96 · 17th August 2010, 05:05 PM

I have always used 15W on PCB, and 25W for point-to-point. Normal leaded solder - Ersin Multicore is about the best 'normal' brand in the UK.

pjp · 17th August 2010, 07:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by star882

I use a 60W Hakko with a light dimmer to adjust the power. Full power for large connections, throttle back for PCB work.

Wouldn't using a dimmer change the temperature of the iron ? (instead of the wattage)

I would have thought that wattage = mass of copper in the bit.
A high wattage iron shouldn't run any hotter, its just able to heat up larger objects.

OP: 30W is more than necessary. If your solder joints are coming out bad, you've got some other problem.

rg12 · 18th August 2010, 01:55 AM

I just wanted to replace my simple old 30w, so i bought a new 30w
and another 60w for non pcb work.
Thanks guys.

davada · 21st August 2010, 12:46 AM

If it's an unregulated 60w iron you can use a variac for temp control, if you have one.

12th August 2010, 05:56 PM	#1
rg12 diyAudio Member Join Date: Aug 2010	Is a 60w solder iron strong enough for electronic soldering? I need to solder and desolder some resistors and capacitors. I have a new 60w basic solder iron, is it ok for that use? my previous one was 30w.

14th August 2010, 01:00 PM	#3
indianajo diyAudio Member Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Jeffersonville, Indiana USA	Yeah, if you bought the 60w because the 30w was too slow, buy a chisel tip for the 30w iron. Chisel tip is a cylinder right out to the very end, which is flat and about 3 mm wide and .5 mm thick. If your 30w iron is not supported by different tips, buy a Weller WP25. Get the tip on the same freight order, it comes with a useless pointy tip, too. If you bought the 60 because the silver solder won't melt-join the club, it doesn't work very well. I use 65/35 tin lead, which is practally banned in Europe because of all the lead shielded KCRT's businesses dumped in the landfills. Update your profile, your location matters on what advice you get. If you live in Europe you need a very expensive iron, although wave soldering by professionals works better. (and is why big companies are in favor of the lead solder ban, repairmen can't afford wave soldering). __________________ Dynakit ST70, ST120, PAS2,Hammond H182(2 ea),H112,A100,10-82TC,Peavey CS800S,SP2-XT's, T-300 HF Projs, Steinway console, Herald RA88a mixer, Wurlitzer 4500 Last edited by indianajo; 14th August 2010 at 01:12 PM.

16th August 2010, 06:07 PM	#6
star882 diyAudio Member Join Date: Mar 2007	I use a 60W Hakko with a light dimmer to adjust the power. Full power for large connections, throttle back for PCB work. __________________ "Fully on MOSFET = closed switch, Fully off MOSFET = open switch, Half on MOSFET = poor imitation of Tiffany Yep." - also applies to IGBTs!

21st August 2010, 12:46 AM	#10
davada diyAudio Member Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Fort St John, BC Canada	If it's an unregulated 60w iron you can use a variac for temp control, if you have one. __________________ DB

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12th August 2010, 06:17 PM	#2
timpert diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Netherlands	A 60W soldering iron might be a tad too much if it is not temperature regulated. For basic PCB soldering, something around 25W is more appropriate. Higher powered irons are often seen used in electronics, but most of the time these are temperature regulated. Otherwise, you'll quickly fry your board and the components on it.

14th August 2010, 02:03 PM	#4
Andrew Eckhardt diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: PA	An unregulated 60 watt iron is good for for very high speed work, especially on large connections. Even a 45 watt iron can be too hot for PC board work, but with a little care it makes clean connections quickly. 30 is actually quite useful and relatively maintenance free if good enough quality. Avoid anything with a set screw for the tip.

14th August 2010, 02:06 PM	#5
aptquark diyAudio Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: MS Blog Entries: 1	I would go for a smaller wattage gun in your case....for me...I use a 2000 watt. I just want the gun to LOOK at the joint and solder it. Less issues that way.

17th August 2010, 05:05 PM	#7
DF96 diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2007	I have always used 15W on PCB, and 25W for point-to-point. Normal leaded solder - Ersin Multicore is about the best 'normal' brand in the UK.

18th August 2010, 01:55 AM	#9
rg12 diyAudio Member Join Date: Aug 2010	I just wanted to replace my simple old 30w, so i bought a new 30w and another 60w for non pcb work. Thanks guys.

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