WHICH Laminator for Toner Transfer?

[PB2]

Originally Posted by theAnonymous1

I'm loving this Samsung ML-2525w wireless printer though.

OT: Do you by any chance use it wirelessly with a Mac? I hear that there are problems, but it would be nice if they have been worked out with a driver upgrade or flashing the unit.

[theAnonymous1]

Originally Posted by PB2

OT: Do you by any chance use it wirelessly with a Mac?

Sorry Pete, I don't use that word in my house.

[PB2]

Originally Posted by theAnonymous1

Sorry Pete, I don't use that word in my house.

I try not to, but my son just got one; it was required for his college school work so I'm told.

[theAnonymous1]

I almost dropped dead on my kitchen floor the other day when my 8 year old daughter asked me for an iPad.

I told her that maybe SantaDroid will bring her a Froyo based slate device this xmas. She looked at me crazy for a few seconds and then repeated that she wanted an iPad. I blame it on fluoridated water.

[qusp]

nah, blame it on being the best tablet around, so more institutions (think schools) and workplaces are taking it on daily for paperless applications.

now I know I probably should have asked my advice before making steam come out your ears but I just happened to order some boards from abcfab the other day (just came up when I searched ebay for FR4 funnily enough) as I figure being into this stuff and having 3 laser printers sitting around doing nothing but printing images isnt healthy. I come from a family of graphic designers and 2 of those printers are xerox colour lasers (docuprint) so I can do A3 at a true resolution of 2400dpi, but I wont use it this high, the reason you guys are getting pitting most likely is because you are using paper that is not set up for fine screening and will not 'hang onto' the toner for lack of a better word. cheaper paper will generally only take up to 100-120lpi and about 2-4 times that resolution, so when you choose a higher resolution the toner isnt fused to the paper completely.

anyway i'm just checking in, so

magazine paper • check
laser printer/s • check
copper laminate • check
print black only • check
possible laminator • will have to...check
agitator?? do you guys use anything like this?
soap and water • check

now is where i'm not 100% sure, best chemicals and concentrations, what are they?

finest traces that should be attempted with this process now with little experience and a little later after I have the process down?

tips for double sided board registration? I was planning on just drilling a couple of fine holes and using some sort of pins to hold it in place

thanks for any advice, really informative thread and if I can get results as fine as above I would be super pleased

thanks again

Jeremy

[pol098]

Originally Posted by qusp

...
now is where i'm not 100% sure, best chemicals and concentrations, what are they?

finest traces that should be attempted with this process now with little experience and a little later after I have the process down?

tips for double sided board registration? I was planning on just drilling a couple of fine holes and using some sort of pins to hold it in place

Jeremy

I'm sure Jeremy's an expert by now, but for anybody who comes to this very useful but veteran thread looking for information, a very useful resource is the Pulsar Web site
PCB "Fab-In-A-Box" ... The 8min circuit board system.
Lots of useful information, centered on their products of course, but much generally applicable.

BTW, if anybody is thinking of modifying the GBC Creative or Personal laminators, one site which published modifications (for higher temperature) in 2009 said in 2011 that the current Creative/Personal laminators were no good for modifying. An Australian site, may only hold for 230V models.

I saw a report somewhere from someone modifying a laminator; the temperature required varied quite a lot for different printer/toner.