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Old 4th June 2003, 05:08 AM   #11
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actually, the heat was the big problem. when i turned up the temperature a bit, the soldering was quicker and easier.
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Old 4th June 2003, 12:50 PM   #12
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Quote:
dont forget a good solder sucker
One thing that i would recomend to everyone is to invest in a good set of dental picks. I hardly, if ever, use a solder sucker. I would rather remove the component and then open the holes with a dental pick (we are talking pcb's here). When you resolder the component, use the iron to get the excess solder off using the "flinging" method I described above. Use more solder than is necessary to get some flux flowing, and the use the iron to get some of the excess solder back off. I know it dosen't sound right, but it really works. I could replace DIPs in seconds using this method with no damage to the traces, and having perfect solder joints every time.
Another thing that is nice about the pick is replacing IC's... You can put the pick under one side of the IC (DIP packages) and pry it with very slight pressure. Then you just heat all pins on one side, and that side will pop right up. Do the same for the other side, and open the holes with the pick, and you are good to go! Quick and easy.
Steve
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Old 4th June 2003, 12:52 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally posted by theChris
actually, the heat was the big problem. when i turned up the temperature a bit, the soldering was quicker and easier.
amazing, the difference a little heat will make.
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Old 4th June 2003, 07:38 PM   #14
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I've been having soldering problems myself. I'm soldering resistors to a RS circuit board with a weller 35W iron with the fine point bit. It was working well at first, but has since been giving me problems. My solder joints are more frequently looking like cold solder joints, even though the iron melts the solder easily and if held to the board and resistor long enough, will even discolor them. The bits are "non-tinning" chromed which are all I see at Fry's to go with that iron. I bought the iron because of the small tip capability that I thought would help getting into the tight quarters on a small PCB. It doesn't seem that I should need more than 35W to heat a couple of resistor leads and a short copper strip. Am I mistaken about this?

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Old 5th June 2003, 12:18 PM   #15
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I would think that would be enough too. Did you try tinning the tip anyway? Sometimes there is a thin layer of junk on it. I don't buy into non-tinning tips... they should be tinned every time you use them. What solder are you using? Are you applying a little bit of solder to the tip to "wet" it before you solder? Have you tryed laying the iron down on the joint so there is more tip area contacting the parts? Are the resistor leads oxidized? A little steel wool to them before you insert them into the pcb will help. Are you using RS solder? Some of it is garbage, I have found. I like Kester (for normal 60/40 solder)
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Old 5th June 2003, 02:54 PM   #16
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I've tried tinning it anyway, but it doesn't take. I'd buy tips that need tinning, but the last trip to Fry's showed only non-tinning tips to go with the iron I have. I'm using non-RS 60/40 solder, not sure of the brand, but got it at a place that shouldn't carry "Junk". The resistor leads are not refusing the solder, only the PCB. I've not tried laying down the tip on the soldering surface, but you know how tight it gets in PCB quarters. Maybe I need to get a less pointed tip, but still not too large. It'd be a shame to have to go get another iron as I just purchased this one, although not so recently that I could return it.

tim s
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Old 5th June 2003, 02:57 PM   #17
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Have you tried cleaning the PCB tracks with some fine sandpaper, or a little wire wool?
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Old 5th June 2003, 03:10 PM   #18
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scotchbrite!!!!...it wont contaminate the copper traces like steel wool!!!
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Old 5th June 2003, 03:13 PM   #19
tiroth is offline tiroth  United States
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I've seen PCBs that were old and all @$#@ up so that they won't take solder. Additional liquid rosin flux helps.
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Old 5th June 2003, 03:19 PM   #20
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I'd suggest getting some tip cleaner. I'll have to check the brand I use but it works wonders. While working I'll dip my iron in the tin of cleaner and voila any oxidation and crap is removed
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