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Old 10th January 2010, 03:22 AM   #1
aterren is online now aterren  United States
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Location: Greenwich, CT
Default Help / Ideas for Repairing Fluke 192 Scopemeter

I have had the scopemeter below for several years. The lines showed up shortly after buying it. Fluke does not offer repair parts or displays. My best guess is the elastomer connector between the PCB and LCD is the problem because past removals cleaning of the elastomer have changed, not fixed, the display.

Any suggestion on how I might be able to fix this would be most appreciated.

Click the image to open in full size.

-Adrien

Last edited by aterren; 10th January 2010 at 03:27 AM.
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Old 13th February 2010, 12:09 AM   #2
cliffyk is offline cliffyk  United States
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I've got an older monochrome 100MHz Scopemeter "something or other" with a dead display and have been told by the major repairs shops that it's a basically a flashy paperweight. It failed after less than 5 years, and was the last HP instrument I bought, or will buy.

In the old days we would have called it a boat anchor, but unlike the equipment of yore it doesn't even weigh enough to be decent anchor.

Wish I had better news...
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Old 19th February 2010, 01:51 AM   #3
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Default Repair for 192 ScopeMeter display lines

aterren,

My company offers the exact repair service you need to correct the lines:

http://www.rightclickcomputer.com/el...meter_display/

You can order the repair procedure directly off the website. Typical turnaround time is 7-10 days with an expedited 1-day option.

Joel Friend
Right-Click Computer & Electronics Service
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Old 21st February 2010, 05:51 PM   #4
aterren is online now aterren  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joelfriend View Post
My company offers the exact repair service you need to correct the lines:

You can order the repair procedure directly off the website. Typical turnaround time is 7-10 days with an expedited 1-day option.

Joel Friend
Joel,

Thanks. I am quite interested in this and will likely send you my meter. Could you describe the nature of the repair? Given fluke's history with elastomeric connectors I'm guessing that is the root cause and you've found a source for a replacements. That is very appealing. If you have however found a way to make their current elastomer work for a while then it is not as attractive a solution.

-Adrien
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Old 23rd February 2010, 12:31 AM   #5
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Adrien,

Please send me a message through our website's contact form so we can exchange e-mail:

Right-Click Computer & Electronics Service | Contact Us

I am not permitted to disclose information concerning our restoration procedure on a public forum.

Joel
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Old 24th April 2010, 01:23 PM   #6
aterren is online now aterren  United States
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Default Fixed!

I sent my meter off to Joel and here are the results:

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

The service and results are were good and I'm happy. I just hope the repair is durable... Time will tell.
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Old 18th December 2010, 10:57 PM   #7
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Default DIY Fix for black screen lines on a Fluke Scope Meter(199)

I have been able to eliminate the black horizontal lines on my scope, it's been okay for months now!

If you've already taken your scope apart (and it still works) you'll know what I'm talking about.

If not, BE CAREFUL!

You'll need to get to the screen module, and you'll see the glass screen, which has on one edge a huge ribbon cable "glued" to the glass.

This cable carries the connections for the horizontal screen lines, and if any one looses the connection, the horizontal line turns black.

The vertical lines are connected by a "rubber" strip between the circuit board and the back of the glass, this strip has hundreds of insulated conducting "wires' going through it to make the connections, it does not have to be lined up with anything, since the "wires" go straight between the top and bottom.

The ribbon cable was the problem on my scope.

You will need to get the screen and circuit board out of the metal frame by bending the metal tabs on the edges.

You'll need to unfold the screen from the board to get to the area where the ribbon cable is "glued" to the back of the screen.

I used a hot melt glue gun..without glue...and moved it, with a slight pressure, across the back of the ribbon cable where it is glued to the screen.

My glue gun has a metal tip, and it didn't melt the ribbon, but re-established the connections by heat.

(I'm sure a soldering iron would be much too hot)

You probably should make a number of passes with the tip.

Enjoy!
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Old 13th August 2011, 04:48 AM   #8
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reviving a dead thread because i have this problem with my scope.

R128 can you describe in more detail how you unfolded the screen to access the area where the horizontal-line ribbon cable is glued to the glass? Did you have to disconnect the strip for the virtical wires to do this?

thanks for the help.
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Old 30th October 2011, 02:11 AM   #9
kct is offline kct  Canada
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To revive this thread yet again, R128 gave good pointers. It is indeed the ribbon cable that makes poor connection on the circuit board and can be corrected by applying mild local heat and slight pressure. This is a very delicate job and I would not recommend to attempt it. Have joelfriend do the job for you.

But for those who can't resist to mess around with the display, be warned, this very very delicate work.

Here are the steps:

Carefully disconnect the data cable and backlight cable from the main board.
Remove the main board.
Remove the metal chassis then remove LCD display from plastic chassis.
Wearing gloves, carefully undo the tabs which hold the metal frame over the LCD glass assembly.
Be aware the delicate ribbon cable is on the opposite side of the LCD display with respect to the backlight.
Once the metal frame has been removed the LCD may be loose now, be sure there is no chance for dust or contamination to come between the elastomer connector and the LCD glass assembly. Be careful not to stress the ribbon cable.
Now carefully apply mild heat and mild pressure simultaneously to the area on the ribbon cable on the PCB at the locations needed.
Now reassemble LCD in reverse order and with some luck the dark horizontal lines are now functioning again.
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Old 29th November 2011, 01:38 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kct View Post
To revive this thread yet again, R128 gave good pointers. It is indeed the ribbon cable that makes poor connection on the circuit board and can be corrected by applying mild local heat and slight pressure. This is a very delicate job and I would not recommend to attempt it. Have joelfriend do the job for you.

But for those who can't resist to mess around with the display, be warned, this very very delicate work.

Here are the steps:

Carefully disconnect the data cable and backlight cable from the main board.
Remove the main board.
Remove the metal chassis then remove LCD display from plastic chassis.
Wearing gloves, carefully undo the tabs which hold the metal frame over the LCD glass assembly.
Be aware the delicate ribbon cable is on the opposite side of the LCD display with respect to the backlight.
Once the metal frame has been removed the LCD may be loose now, be sure there is no chance for dust or contamination to come between the elastomer connector and the LCD glass assembly. Be careful not to stress the ribbon cable.
Now carefully apply mild heat and mild pressure simultaneously to the area on the ribbon cable on the PCB at the locations needed.
Now reassemble LCD in reverse order and with some luck the dark horizontal lines are now functioning again.
Ok, now you got me wanting to try this out on my scope meter. Yeah,
it started doing the exact same thing, the horizontal black lines
across the screen.

I found the service manual that described the fix, but then I didn't save
it because I thought I had already saved the solution and didn't want to
overwrite it. SHAME ON ME. I haven't been able to find it again and my good friends at Fluke are mum. Imagine that, they will gladly send me
to a service center to have it fixed.

I can also get my meter calibrated for about $670.00. That made me
feel really special.

Any way, to make a long story short, thanks for the post and
I'll take some before and after pics.

Cheers,

Sync
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