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Joined 2002
Handing any outfor diy playing with .!
I would consider that. I will have to get someone to pack them and ship them and you would need to pay shipping for the smallest box that USPS has for flat rate.
Banned
Joined 2002
that's cool with me, i could use some led's free is good
You are probably not the only one that would like samples. If more people are interested, I could send a box to one of you and you could distribute them to the others. That is the only way it would be practical for me. I can't do the packing or shipping myself.
Banned
Joined 2002
Id be willing to do this to any one who need's led's i can package them up, and ship them out, however i will not pay shipping fee's
Would be more than willing to package up and ship out.Steve, you got mail!
Jase
4x 10W White High Power 600lM LED Lamp Prolight Star - eBay LEDs, Electronic Components, Electrical Test Equipment, Business Industrial. (end time 11-Dec-09 04:50:45 AEDST)
I have tried these with great success. Run them at 9.5 volts at 0.95 amps. I use a smps power supply followed by a current regulator.
I have tried these with great success. Run them at 9.5 volts at 0.95 amps. I use a smps power supply followed by a current regulator.
that's exactly how my uncle got a free scope (Tek 475A) in good working condition that he gave to me.
I don't have white. I had the blue one (I have red ones too but...) and I wanted to give this a try to see how much light it gives. It will be on with the regular room lighting so I will still be able to distinguish colour, not that I ever look at a colour code, that's what a meter is for.
Lotsa LEDs Steve.
Banned
Joined 2002
Jase,
I could use some
Postage to me would be silly cheap from your neck of the Republic. Shoot me a PM when your end of the deal is ready
Cheers!
Ok Cool, just working out the deal, going to see how many he will send and what we have available
Jase
Banned
Joined 2002
well, I have lots of room over here for LOTS of led's
I guess it depends on how many you want to give away Personally the more the better, i can build projects plus give them away Banned
Joined 2002
I am about to part with my Minolta Color Meter II -- having lived through the Ektachrome nightmares with varioius "holes" in the spectra from halide and fluorescent lamps.
Problem with higher power LED's is getting rid of the heat without shocking the consumer -- while they are efficient, they still produce a lot of heat and the thermal impedance of the connect to the heat dissipating surface is an issue.
Problem #1 with CFL's is disposal. I think this is a far, far greater problem than anyone at GE or Siemens is anticipating. I think Minimata. CFL's also generate more noise than conventional fluorescents and in many applications are prone to early failure. GE in particular is flogging CFL's just like they were flogging pcb's for transformers. Immelt is shameless.
Banned
Joined 2002
What about doing something like this, Seoul Acriche 110VAC 2Watt LED Specifications
and put it inside this,
with a heat sink on the back side, do these led's get that hot ?
So many things you could do with these type's of led's think of our hydro bills would be and how cheap it would be.. Buy a nice switch mode psu, buy lots of led's and make arrays for the house, for different rooms etc etc.
Why is it so expensive ? why is it taking so long for this to be designed and out ? I have so many ideas for this stuff it's silly
J'
I'm still in the need of some
I haven't forgotten about you. I said I would wait until this Sunday to see mow many samples were requested. I think some people want to go into business selling them considering the quantities requested. I don't have enough to send everyone several hundred.
I will send you a box as soon as I can get someone to dig them out of the shop, box and ship them, since I cannot do that myself. Be patient.
They are much more efficient than incandescents, but 80% of the energy is going to heat (and that's the best they can do for the moment).
A candle is 99.96% inefficient as a source of light.
Banned
Joined 2002
Id like to know then, where does the led business make some changes to produce less heat i guess, If we think about it, doesn't a led produce less head and require less power than a actuall say 60watt light ? those bulbs get pretty hot still.
The one thing i don't like about led's is if u use ac, they flicker, i see it so easy, now take a led and change it's unput from ac to dc and DING its nice to use.
J'
Having read through this thread, there have been lots of wild and woolly comments about fluorescents that need clearing up. First, separate the tube from its supply.
Fluorescent tubes are available with lots of different phosphors. The ones you see in the shops are the cheap and nasty ones with very poor colour rendering. A typical international type number for a fluorescent tube:
L18W/640
The "L" designates that it's a fluorescent, the "18W" is the power, the "6" (and this is the important one) is the colour rendering (Ra) which is a scale from 0 to 100, with 100 being perfect. 93 is possible, and would be designated 9, so 6 in this example is rubbish. The final two digits "40" are the colour temperature in Kelvin, here, it's 4000K, which is quite low. As far as I can make out, there are two tubes worthy of consideration, Sylvania Activa172 and GEC Biolux. Both are used for treatment of Seasonal Affective Disorder (SAD). Both give a nice light (I use both).
Having chosen your tube, you need to power it. There is no thermal inertia in a fluorescent, so if you pulse the supply, you get a pulsed light. Conventional ballasts simply apply mains and therefore pulse the light at twice mains frequency. Because fluorescent tubes are long, they engage your peripheral vision (which is sensitive to flicker), so you notice 100Hz or 120Hz flicker. Alternatively, HF ballasts use a switcher operating at 40-50kHz which is absolutely flicker-free. This is what I use. And yes, they cause noise that creeps into unshielded electronics. I think of it as a free EMC tool. My fluorescents don't seem to cause too much of a problem, but extremely sensitive electronics may need the fluorescent to be switched off and LED lighting substituted.
Fluorescent tubes are available with lots of different phosphors. The ones you see in the shops are the cheap and nasty ones with very poor colour rendering. A typical international type number for a fluorescent tube:
L18W/640
The "L" designates that it's a fluorescent, the "18W" is the power, the "6" (and this is the important one) is the colour rendering (Ra) which is a scale from 0 to 100, with 100 being perfect. 93 is possible, and would be designated 9, so 6 in this example is rubbish. The final two digits "40" are the colour temperature in Kelvin, here, it's 4000K, which is quite low. As far as I can make out, there are two tubes worthy of consideration, Sylvania Activa172 and GEC Biolux. Both are used for treatment of Seasonal Affective Disorder (SAD). Both give a nice light (I use both).
Having chosen your tube, you need to power it. There is no thermal inertia in a fluorescent, so if you pulse the supply, you get a pulsed light. Conventional ballasts simply apply mains and therefore pulse the light at twice mains frequency. Because fluorescent tubes are long, they engage your peripheral vision (which is sensitive to flicker), so you notice 100Hz or 120Hz flicker. Alternatively, HF ballasts use a switcher operating at 40-50kHz which is absolutely flicker-free. This is what I use. And yes, they cause noise that creeps into unshielded electronics. I think of it as a free EMC tool. My fluorescents don't seem to cause too much of a problem, but extremely sensitive electronics may need the fluorescent to be switched off and LED lighting substituted.
I use a mixture: Fluorescent tubes to "flood" the area with light and Halogen as "key" lighting to provide some shadow, thus make things stand out.
Seems those years spent in a TV studio weren't completely wasted...
With regard to noise, my environment is already very noisy: An underground power line runs 1 meter from my workshop wall. If I switch off the power my tubes still flicker, though you can only see it on a dark night.
This has made me very aware of equipment shielding, although with a valve amp I built, it was impossible to reduce the interference from one speaker. Fortunately this only happens when the amp is off! When powered, the conducting output valve sufficiently damps output transformer primary. The interference is not hum as such, just switching noise and harmonics.
Seems those years spent in a TV studio weren't completely wasted...
With regard to noise, my environment is already very noisy: An underground power line runs 1 meter from my workshop wall. If I switch off the power my tubes still flicker, though you can only see it on a dark night.
This has made me very aware of equipment shielding, although with a valve amp I built, it was impossible to reduce the interference from one speaker. Fortunately this only happens when the amp is off! When powered, the conducting output valve sufficiently damps output transformer primary. The interference is not hum as such, just switching noise and harmonics.
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