Heavy Duty Workbench for Milling Machine

[Vikash]

I have a Sieg X3 milling machine sitting in the garage for over a year now, still sitting on its delivery pallet. Time to get that bad boy going so I can make the enclosures and chassis I bought it for...



The reason it's been sitting untouched for so long is that I still haven't built a workbench in the garage - so I'll start there.

I want it to be quite simple in design, but enough to take serious abuse for later projects and to hold the mill permanently (a CNC conversion is planned for it).

At the moment all I have is an idea which I'd appreciate any feedback on:
- 2x4 batton 2.4m long fixed to the garage brick wall with M12 studs and injection resin
- 4 front legs made from 2x4s
- 2" or so mdf/chipboard laminate top
- rectangular steel tubing to support the worktop

Here's an earlier, overly-complicated design which I have dismissed (but to give you an idea)...




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[Vikash]

I think I'd prefer something free standing (as opposed to fixed to the wall). Possibly even on casters.

Here's an idea I've come up with using only 2x4 timber and a variation of lap joints. This would require only simply cuts and looks like it will be quite strong.

The whole rear and side would be boarded up for support and probably include a shelf.

I was looking for some opinions on whether the basic join method looks sound and will withstand some serious abuse?

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[Mr Evil]

Originally posted by Vikash
- 2" or so mdf/chipboard laminate top

Since you're going to be putting some rather heavy stuff on it, perhaps plywood would be better than MDF, since it is more rigid.

I surfaced my workbench with laminate flooring. The commercial-grade stuff is made from thick HDF with an extremely tough surface on it. It will survive a lot of abuse.

[Vikash]

It's a shame that standard kitchen worktops are only 60cm deep...

Here's an updated design. I figure there's more strength in using the worktop supports vertically, and I also I plan cutting a recess into which you can slide a shelf.

By my calcs that's about 10 pcs 2.4m long 2x4s (ok, 100 x 47mm), so about £32 from Wickes for the frame.

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[bulgin]

Hi Vikash

Congrats on your new mill!

I cannot comment on your planned base except for the fact that I used h/d castors but soon discarded them as I found them too unstable for precision milling. I removed them and leveled the stand, positioning small squares of thick leather (the type shoe soles are made from), under each of the 4 stand legs.

I know just having your own mill is incredibly useful and mine also originally came fitted with a h/d drill chuck. IMO the best upgrade I made was to fit a collet chuck system, which is indispensable for accurate milling and fine finishes.

The little mill I use is much older than yours and is a Maximat V10. The collet system I use is branded Horma for threaded cutters, made in Czechoslovakia.

bulgin

[454Casull]

Too tired to help you out in any significant way, but do keep in mind that you will want to put a table vise on an edge eventually, so make sure that the structure both allows it and is torsionally rigid.

[Magura]

Keep in mind, that the surface quality of your work, is directly related to how well the mill is fastened. You will want a pretty heavy structure, preferably bolted to the floor.


Magura

[optichammer]

Hey, your design looks perfect. I have a 2 x 3 CNC that I built a very, very similar design. I use loose or 'floating' tenons as opposed to your joinery method. Actually the Festool Domnio. My timbers are all engineered microlams that I scored as off cuts from a jobsite. It's killer. Dead nut stable and rock solid. I'd go with a layered approach to the top. From bottom to top: 3/4" CDX ply > 3/4" mdf > 1/4" masonite. It works exceptionally well, and the masonite is infinately renewable if you trash it. Wax the masonite and nothing will stick to it. My controller boxes are underneath, but suspended from the deck, so I have the lower deck floor for other stuff, especially my sawdust collection

It's a solid design, you'll be fine with it. If you decide to go casters, try to go with only two on one end. Your table will be far less prone to rocking.

Good luck and be safe!

- Eric

[Vikash]

Thanks Eric.

I've made the cross members larger. Here's the final design (without showing the backboard or A-frame cross braces).

The saw has arrived so hopefully will start cutting this weekend. Thanks.



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[Vikash]

Started to get to grips with the new mitre saw. It's a really nice bit of kit. Here's a pic with the saw, milling machine and the workbench leg pieces cut.



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