Makita Drill

TroelsM · 5th September 2007, 09:04 AM

Hi.

What's the opinion on these (older) cordless Makita drills?

A few years back they were popular in repair-shops (right?).

I would guess that this model is at least a few years old?

The one in the picture has no torque-setting but has 2 speed settings. It's only 7.2V but with low speed that should be OK for small-medium screws.

I know that the battery probably is not-so-hot, but with two batteries and a fast charger that won't be a problem for hobby-use.

Regards TroelsM

pinkmouse · 5th September 2007, 09:10 AM

I had one of those for years before it was nicked from site. Great drivers. Don't worry about the 7.2V rating, it likely has more torque than most DIY 18V units. Oh, and you can still get the batteries from Makita dealers.

TroelsM · 5th September 2007, 09:30 AM

Thanks for the fast reply Pinkmouse.

What's the price for a battery-pack in your part of the world? Here in Denmark the battery cost approx 80-100% of a complete new drill.

Regards TroelsM

pinkmouse · 5th September 2007, 10:16 AM

Yup, list price is expensive. Your best bet is to find a "trade" tool repair/distributor place that will do you a deal. I seem to remember paying about £35 for the one I had to replace, (was dropped from height - they don't bounce!

)

TroelsM · 5th September 2007, 10:21 AM

A quick guess would be that list-price for a standard (2Ah ?) battery-pack in Denmark is approx 80$....

A Sub-D cell (3300mAh) is approx 8-9$...

All in all it's to expensive to buy "old" battery-tools when the batteries are sold at these prices. ( - a bit like cheap inkjet-printers... )

Regards TroelsM

pinkmouse · 5th September 2007, 10:26 AM

I've never tried it, but it should be possible to build your own pack using those Sub- D cells. I saw a circuit on the interweb ages ago that showed how to build a spot welder out of cheap caps to make up the connector tabs for battery packs for RC cars.

Also, I wouldn't grudge the cost of a pack for a decent driver like that, a cheap one yes, but that should give you years of service.

:edited for content.

TroelsM · 5th September 2007, 10:49 AM

Oops. It's Sub-C NOT Sub-D! My bad.

I've soldered connector-tabs to these sells and if you got the right (BIG!) solder-iron (Weller, type 9, flat, big) it should work.

There's of cause always a chance that you'll "cook" the cell...

Regards TroelsM

OzMikeH · 5th September 2007, 01:32 PM

I've had success lightly filing the ends of the cells and using solder braid to link the cells.

There are cheap non-genuine batteries available too. the ones I have used for 9.6V makitas last longer than genuine ones.

Magura · 5th September 2007, 11:41 PM

You can buy the sub-c cells with solder tags, in any RC model shop at a favorible price.

My guess would be it would set you back like 40 USD. The real cheap solution is to go and buy an el-cheapo cordless drill from a home improvement shop...that would give you two sets of cells for like less than 40 USD.

Magura

planet10 · 6th September 2007, 12:43 AM

I find my 4.something V Makitas invaluable as powered screwdrivers.

dave

5th September 2007, 09:10 AM	#2
pinkmouse diyAudio Moderator Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Chatham, England	I had one of those for years before it was nicked from site. Great drivers. Don't worry about the 7.2V rating, it likely has more torque than most DIY 18V units. Oh, and you can still get the batteries from Makita dealers. __________________ Al The miracle is not to fly in the air, or to walk on the water; but to walk on the earth. Chinese Proverb

5th September 2007, 09:30 AM	#3
TroelsM diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2003 Location: AARHUS. DK	Thanks for the fast reply Pinkmouse. What's the price for a battery-pack in your part of the world? Here in Denmark the battery cost approx 80-100% of a complete new drill. Regards TroelsM __________________ Visit my blog at: http://kofoedmejer.squarespace.com/ and have a look.

5th September 2007, 10:16 AM	#4
pinkmouse diyAudio Moderator Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Chatham, England	Yup, list price is expensive. Your best bet is to find a "trade" tool repair/distributor place that will do you a deal. I seem to remember paying about £35 for the one I had to replace, (was dropped from height - they don't bounce! ) __________________ Al The miracle is not to fly in the air, or to walk on the water; but to walk on the earth. Chinese Proverb

5th September 2007, 10:21 AM	#5
TroelsM diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2003 Location: AARHUS. DK	A quick guess would be that list-price for a standard (2Ah ?) battery-pack in Denmark is approx 80$.... A Sub-D cell (3300mAh) is approx 8-9$... All in all it's to expensive to buy "old" battery-tools when the batteries are sold at these prices. ( - a bit like cheap inkjet-printers... ) Regards TroelsM __________________ Visit my blog at: http://kofoedmejer.squarespace.com/ and have a look.

5th September 2007, 10:26 AM	#6
pinkmouse diyAudio Moderator Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Chatham, England	I've never tried it, but it should be possible to build your own pack using those Sub- D cells. I saw a circuit on the interweb ages ago that showed how to build a spot welder out of cheap caps to make up the connector tabs for battery packs for RC cars. Also, I wouldn't grudge the cost of a pack for a decent driver like that, a cheap one yes, but that should give you years of service. :edited for content. __________________ Al The miracle is not to fly in the air, or to walk on the water; but to walk on the earth. Chinese Proverb


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5th September 2007, 10:49 AM	#7
TroelsM diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2003 Location: AARHUS. DK	Oops. It's Sub-C NOT Sub-D! My bad. I've soldered connector-tabs to these sells and if you got the right (BIG!) solder-iron (Weller, type 9, flat, big) it should work. There's of cause always a chance that you'll "cook" the cell... Regards TroelsM __________________ Visit my blog at: http://kofoedmejer.squarespace.com/ and have a look.

5th September 2007, 01:32 PM	#8
OzMikeH diyAudio Member Join Date: Mar 2007	I've had success lightly filing the ends of the cells and using solder braid to link the cells. There are cheap non-genuine batteries available too. the ones I have used for 9.6V makitas last longer than genuine ones. __________________ Help some guys with funny hair bang two rocks together really hard. http://athome.web.cern.ch/athome/LHCathome/whatis.html

5th September 2007, 11:41 PM	#9
Magura diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Denmark, Viborg	You can buy the sub-c cells with solder tags, in any RC model shop at a favorible price. My guess would be it would set you back like 40 USD. The real cheap solution is to go and buy an el-cheapo cordless drill from a home improvement shop...that would give you two sets of cells for like less than 40 USD. Magura __________________ Everything is possible....to do the impossible just takes a little while longer.

6th September 2007, 12:43 AM	#10
planet10 frugal-phile(tm) diyAudio Moderator Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: Victoria, BC, NA, Sol III Blog Entries: 3	I find my 4.something V Makitas invaluable as powered screwdrivers. dave __________________ community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi

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