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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
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What do you consider to be the best desoldering tool?
What is a medium value? What is on the lower but still usable tier? |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Jan 2003
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I'm quite happy with a Weller WSA-1 but can't compare except for an el-cheapo one that lasted six months.
/Hugo |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
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Two Weller units, two Pace units, one A.P.E., and one ESS. I love the A.P.E. unit the best. They all beat the heck out of using desoldering braid.
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: central Iowa
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Pace rework station has got my vote!
__________________
Ret. USAF... AKA- Avionic *** Solder slinger for hire...*** |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Vancouver Island
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Pace were the nicest I've used, but it wasn't a whole lot faster than using a Soldapullt DS017 (I timed myself changing a large number of caps). I tried a Weller unit, but it just didn't pull enough vacuum to be useful, and keeping the tip useable was a chore. If I could only chose one desoldering tool, it would be the Soldapullt.
Braid is my choice for cleaning up surface mount pads. |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
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Pace rework station is great. They cost about $7000 though.
Even when I had access to those I still used solder braid a lot. Solder wick is the go for DIY. and a temperature controlled soldering iron, Not the weller magnastat, but the one with a temperature control knob. If you do go for the magnastat iron use 700 degree tips. the 800 degree ones burn the flux out too quickly and also usually melt the glue that stick the copper tracks on. NEVER buy 800 degree tips. Our apprentice was completely terrible at soldering. Turns out, after several months, someone had given him an 800 degree tip for his iron, he was burning the flux off the solder Use a BIGGER tip for bigger jobs, not a hotter one. Use the right temperature, a touch of extra flux (a touch of multicore solder will do) and a GOOD quality solder braid. If you have masses of extra solder on the pad those "blackhead remover" spring loaded pumps will get the bulk of it off. If you use one of these get a heavy one, or add some weight to the body of it, a latge bolt cable tied to the side or something, this reduces the recoil when you hit the button. If the item is small enough add some extra solder so you have a nice big blob, then bang the board on the table while it is still molten. If you get this technique just right you often don't even need the wick. Cheap solder doesnt even make good sinkers, buy the most expensive 60/40 solder you can find. Never, ever use that lead free crap. I wouldn't even fix the mother-in-law's dentures with it. |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Royal Oak, MI.
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I've been repairing electronics for 30+ years, PACE is big$$, but worth every penny.
Tall Shadow |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: central Iowa
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The last Pace I used was while I was in the Airforce. Money was no object. The best tools and equipment money could buy.My tax dollars at work...Now solderwick and liquid flux....
Dave
__________________
Ret. USAF... AKA- Avionic *** Solder slinger for hire...*** |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
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I will change what I said earlier. The Weller is great for the heavier desoldering jobs but the Pace does do the smaller parts better.
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#10 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: central Iowa
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Quote:
I'll have to agree with OzMikeH Kester 60/40 is my preferance as far as solder goes.There is also different types of solderwick some of which is pure sh*t absolutely no resin or flux.Buyer beware. Dave
__________________
Ret. USAF... AKA- Avionic *** Solder slinger for hire...*** |
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