Router size
To paraphrase a well-known source...
"Big routers are better than little routers"... ;-)
I've got a smaller panel trimmer I use for detail work and such, but if I were choosing between the two bigger is better, since the shank is beefier and, as with other things in life, sometimes size does matter. Less rattling around, heftier motor and more mass makes control cuts easier to manage.
Of course, all this is with the caveat... ymmv
John L.
To paraphrase a well-known source...
"Big routers are better than little routers"... ;-)
I've got a smaller panel trimmer I use for detail work and such, but if I were choosing between the two bigger is better, since the shank is beefier and, as with other things in life, sometimes size does matter. Less rattling around, heftier motor and more mass makes control cuts easier to manage.
Of course, all this is with the caveat... ymmv
John L.
I know you didn't ask for a recomendation, what the heck...
Its good, there are better, you could pay a lot more for worse
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B000GKC28W/dealtime-tools-20/ref=nosim
Its good, there are better, you could pay a lot more for worse
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B000GKC28W/dealtime-tools-20/ref=nosim
Bosch 1614EVS
I purchased a Bosch 1614EVS plunge router second hand for $100. A thing about second hand routers; many of them are sold because the owner never used it much; just like the low frequency use you plan CW.
The 1614 has variable RPM with smooth plunge action and it has a really nice depth setting guide that actually works well and a fine tuning depth adjustment that works and is useful. It also has a slow start feature that also works well and really nice handles to hold it firm in your grip. I have used it and abused it over and over again. I have used it for speakers, custom moldings and even on aluminum. I made a mounting plate to mount it upside down in a Black and Decker work bench with an adjustable fence to profile long wood stock for onsite installations. You can do almost anything with a router.
I made a few cutting guides from mdf and if you plan on many circular cuts you could make your own guides from lexan or Plexiglas for longer life and greater accuracy over time.
Just as the other folks have said, If you can find a unit that allows the use of 1/4" & 1/2" collets then all the better and you will be able to use a wider range of bits. I think the 1614 is limited to a 1/4" collet. I don't know if you could get your hands on a 1614 anymore but you may through eBay and such but I just wanted you to know which one I have been using.
Cheers,
Shawn.
I purchased a Bosch 1614EVS plunge router second hand for $100. A thing about second hand routers; many of them are sold because the owner never used it much; just like the low frequency use you plan CW.
The 1614 has variable RPM with smooth plunge action and it has a really nice depth setting guide that actually works well and a fine tuning depth adjustment that works and is useful. It also has a slow start feature that also works well and really nice handles to hold it firm in your grip. I have used it and abused it over and over again. I have used it for speakers, custom moldings and even on aluminum. I made a mounting plate to mount it upside down in a Black and Decker work bench with an adjustable fence to profile long wood stock for onsite installations. You can do almost anything with a router.
I made a few cutting guides from mdf and if you plan on many circular cuts you could make your own guides from lexan or Plexiglas for longer life and greater accuracy over time.
Just as the other folks have said, If you can find a unit that allows the use of 1/4" & 1/2" collets then all the better and you will be able to use a wider range of bits. I think the 1614 is limited to a 1/4" collet. I don't know if you could get your hands on a 1614 anymore but you may through eBay and such but I just wanted you to know which one I have been using.
Cheers,
Shawn.
Attachments
ROUTER MANIA
Even if you are an ardent wood worker routers are seldom used . I have two ,both Craftsmen and both 1/4". One is a plunge model the other is a plane old 3/4 hp model which I use more than the plunge model. To buy a Porter Cable or a Bosch is overkill as they are meant for heavy every day use. Most router cuts for speaker building are less than 1/4" deep and are made in MDF which when cut ,quickly turns to dust. My bits were bought on Ebay and still work fine . They are no name carbide and have a 1/4" shank and cost less than $20.
Speaker building is an expensive hobby!! Put your money where it counts. Sounds from ANY router cant compare to a Good Speaker System.
Even if you are an ardent wood worker routers are seldom used . I have two ,both Craftsmen and both 1/4". One is a plunge model the other is a plane old 3/4 hp model which I use more than the plunge model. To buy a Porter Cable or a Bosch is overkill as they are meant for heavy every day use. Most router cuts for speaker building are less than 1/4" deep and are made in MDF which when cut ,quickly turns to dust. My bits were bought on Ebay and still work fine . They are no name carbide and have a 1/4" shank and cost less than $20.
Speaker building is an expensive hobby!! Put your money where it counts. Sounds from ANY router cant compare to a Good Speaker System.
richie00boy said:
You are indeed fortunate to have a merchant who will carefully cut the box pieces to precise measurement . It is doubtful that could be done over here . I have been building speakers since 1961 and have never rabbitted my edges. Also I have actually not seen a speaker covered in Formica or the like. As for holes I would not attempt that without a template or a jig . I guess it's to each his own!!!
Some merchants are accurate. Even inaccurate cuts can be sorted with a router and trimming bit though. In fact the flush trimmer is invaluable to quickly neaten up the box.
Rebated edges makes assembly so much easier as there's no sliding all over the place - try it
I don't cover my speakers in formica, paint or cloth is the usual choice.
For large holes I use a compass attachment to a fence rod, smaller ones I have a proper compass that slides in place of the fence. Both are quick and easy to use (no jig or template needed) and give great results.
Welcome to the 21st century
Rebated edges makes assembly so much easier as there's no sliding all over the place - try it
I don't cover my speakers in formica, paint or cloth is the usual choice.
For large holes I use a compass attachment to a fence rod, smaller ones I have a proper compass that slides in place of the fence. Both are quick and easy to use (no jig or template needed) and give great results.
Welcome to the 21st century
Re: Re: Re: ROUTER MANIA
You need a better router table -- with the right jigs you wind up using it all the time --
i use a porter cable on which you can go from 1/4 to 1/2 rather quickly.
btw, what fence are you using with the Rockwell Table Saw ? -- I got a Kreg last fall and it is fantastic.
sandstorm33 said:
You need a better router table -- with the right jigs you wind up using it all the time --
i use a porter cable on which you can go from 1/4 to 1/2 rather quickly.
btw, what fence are you using with the Rockwell Table Saw ? -- I got a Kreg last fall and it is fantastic.
My advice:
Get a 1/2 inch model, even if you have to pick one up second hand to keep within budget.
Make sure the micro adjustments are smooth and easy to make. (check out a Porter-Cable at Home Depot for a good example.)
Get Fine Woodworking Magazines's book on router jigs and fixtures. (The one thats a compilation of home made devices that readers have sent in.) Understand the ideas in it.
Then
Mount router to a large rigid flat surface, like a 3/4" x 24" x 48" piece of plywood.
Get a 1/8" 2" x 2" x 48" piece of aluminum angle, bolt it at one end with a snug fit. Put a stop block at the other end with a fine thread screw for micro adjustment.
You can now do incredibly precise milling for almost any operation you may need in speaker building.
Note: you can get spiral cut bits a lot cheaper from a metal working supplier like Reid Tool. (ReidTool.com I think , they do small orders and take credit cards.)
Hope this helps.
Get a 1/2 inch model, even if you have to pick one up second hand to keep within budget.
Make sure the micro adjustments are smooth and easy to make. (check out a Porter-Cable at Home Depot for a good example.)
Get Fine Woodworking Magazines's book on router jigs and fixtures. (The one thats a compilation of home made devices that readers have sent in.) Understand the ideas in it.
Then
Mount router to a large rigid flat surface, like a 3/4" x 24" x 48" piece of plywood.
Get a 1/8" 2" x 2" x 48" piece of aluminum angle, bolt it at one end with a snug fit. Put a stop block at the other end with a fine thread screw for micro adjustment.
You can now do incredibly precise milling for almost any operation you may need in speaker building.
Note: you can get spiral cut bits a lot cheaper from a metal working supplier like Reid Tool. (ReidTool.com I think , they do small orders and take credit cards.)
Hope this helps.
Here's my No1 hand router.
In 20 years, it has been used to build speakers, a yacht, all kinds of furniture and just about everything in home repair. Constructing babyroom furniture yourself is a tradition in my family, i've done my son's.
My g/f used it a month ago to make a floor hatch. (Doctor DIY enjoys music ánd big loudspeakers)
DeWALT carries accessories that fit the ELU, such as the DW6913 edge guide.
Over the years, the router has earned a multitude of the $500 base cost.
This winter it will do hard labor on a 90"x45" dinnertable, made from African wood as hard as stone.
I hate the Swiss, everything they make is so d... good.
(ps: i use both 1/4" and 1/2" collets)
In 20 years, it has been used to build speakers, a yacht, all kinds of furniture and just about everything in home repair. Constructing babyroom furniture yourself is a tradition in my family, i've done my son's.
My g/f used it a month ago to make a floor hatch. (Doctor DIY enjoys music ánd big loudspeakers)
DeWALT carries accessories that fit the ELU, such as the DW6913 edge guide.
Over the years, the router has earned a multitude of the $500 base cost.
This winter it will do hard labor on a 90"x45" dinnertable, made from African wood as hard as stone.
I hate the Swiss, everything they make is so d... good.
(ps: i use both 1/4" and 1/2" collets)
Attachments
>>>great tools, though made in Germany now I believe. <<<
I'VE READ THAT MATEY!!! - Ok, next things we send across the Channel will have been made by Messerschmitt again.
So, that bit of friendly needling done with (and I hope everyone understood it as such) : that tip you gave as an aside should have been written in 6' high letters. Midrange priced machinery can give splendid results if you don't stint on blades/router bits/drills.
A good router bit can easily purge your wallet by 40-60€ (that's 25-40 Pounds, sorry but true), but you'll reduce your monthly Valium bill by more.
Cheers,
Pit
I'VE READ THAT MATEY!!! - Ok, next things we send across the Channel will have been made by Messerschmitt again.
So, that bit of friendly needling done with (and I hope everyone understood it as such) : that tip you gave as an aside should have been written in 6' high letters. Midrange priced machinery can give splendid results if you don't stint on blades/router bits/drills.
A good router bit can easily purge your wallet by 40-60€ (that's 25-40 Pounds, sorry but true), but you'll reduce your monthly Valium bill by more.
Cheers,
Pit
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.