Pedro:
I don't know that blade. I have seen the piranha brand, but have not seen non-ferrous metal cutting blades by them. My blade has 60 teeth on a 10-in. (250mm) dia. blade. I think that's about minimum to get nice cuts. More is better and gives smoother cuts, I believe. All those carbide teeth make the blades expensive, but for building chassis, cutting heatsinks, etc. it's worth it. The blade with 32 teeth on 140mm dia. should be ok, but it must be made for aluminum or non-ferrous metals.
I tried a carbide wood-cutting blade, but the offset teeth caused the metal to chip and have a poor finish. Metal cutting blade has non-offset teeth, and are ground to a special profile.
Good luck
I don't know that blade. I have seen the piranha brand, but have not seen non-ferrous metal cutting blades by them. My blade has 60 teeth on a 10-in. (250mm) dia. blade. I think that's about minimum to get nice cuts. More is better and gives smoother cuts, I believe. All those carbide teeth make the blades expensive, but for building chassis, cutting heatsinks, etc. it's worth it. The blade with 32 teeth on 140mm dia. should be ok, but it must be made for aluminum or non-ferrous metals.
I tried a carbide wood-cutting blade, but the offset teeth caused the metal to chip and have a poor finish. Metal cutting blade has non-offset teeth, and are ground to a special profile.
Good luck
Some earlier posts made reference to milling in a drill press. Just as a side comment... milling machines have positive retention on their tool holders. The adapter be it R-8, Brown and Sharpe, NMTB, Morse or etc will have a draw bar pulling the shank up into the spindle nose.
Milling not only causes radial stress, it can result in axial stress in opposition to the spindle taper as well. Without the retention drawbar, rotating cutters can pull holders free of the spindle. With spindles in motion this can pose a hazard.
You can machine out of your drill press, just be aware of the limitations and act accordingly.
Cyclotronguy
Milling not only causes radial stress, it can result in axial stress in opposition to the spindle taper as well. Without the retention drawbar, rotating cutters can pull holders free of the spindle. With spindles in motion this can pose a hazard.
You can machine out of your drill press, just be aware of the limitations and act accordingly.
Cyclotronguy
Methylated spirits
I've looked through this thread and seen some interesting techniques, but am amazed not to see a mention of methylated spirit as cutting fluid for aluminium.
I discovered this in Deketh's "Fundamentals of Radio-Valve Technique" and it's a winner. Once upon a time, I used to faff about with a series of pilot drills before drilling to final size. Now, I use a combination drill to locate the web of the final drill and drill final size immediately with full confidence that I will get a round hole, of the correct size, in the right place, with hardly any burr.
You don't need much fluid, I use a 1/2" paintbrush to drop a dollop where I'm about to drill, and if it's a large drill (1/2") I paint the flutes as well. (If the drill is positioned above the intended hole at the time, then there is no need to dollop the metal.)
You've got to try this, it makes your work so much faster, easier, and more accurate...
I've looked through this thread and seen some interesting techniques, but am amazed not to see a mention of methylated spirit as cutting fluid for aluminium.
I discovered this in Deketh's "Fundamentals of Radio-Valve Technique" and it's a winner. Once upon a time, I used to faff about with a series of pilot drills before drilling to final size. Now, I use a combination drill to locate the web of the final drill and drill final size immediately with full confidence that I will get a round hole, of the correct size, in the right place, with hardly any burr.
You don't need much fluid, I use a 1/2" paintbrush to drop a dollop where I'm about to drill, and if it's a large drill (1/2") I paint the flutes as well. (If the drill is positioned above the intended hole at the time, then there is no need to dollop the metal.)
You've got to try this, it makes your work so much faster, easier, and more accurate...
For anyone interested, The proper blade to cut aluminum on a table saw or chop saw is "triple chip with 5 degree negative rake". Something around 80 tooth for 12" or 72 tooth for 10 or more. Cutting fluids are not needed.
Wood blades usually have "alternate bevel tooth" and 10 to 20 degrees positive rake. This means the tops of the teeth are not perpendicular to the plane of the blade. this causes the blade to flex back and forth when cutting and the positive rake tries to dig in to the work peice. This is a dangerous condition.
And don't even thing about trying to cut aluminum on a radial arm saw.
I cut and install extruded aluminum door frames and windows in office buildings, so I do know what I'm talking about this time.
My blade of choice- DeWalt DW3229
12" 80 tooth .126" kerf .087" plate -5deg rake triple chip
bought 4 on special for $75.00 US
Wood blades usually have "alternate bevel tooth" and 10 to 20 degrees positive rake. This means the tops of the teeth are not perpendicular to the plane of the blade. this causes the blade to flex back and forth when cutting and the positive rake tries to dig in to the work peice. This is a dangerous condition.
And don't even thing about trying to cut aluminum on a radial arm saw.
I cut and install extruded aluminum door frames and windows in office buildings, so I do know what I'm talking about this time.
My blade of choice- DeWalt DW3229
12" 80 tooth .126" kerf .087" plate -5deg rake triple chip
bought 4 on special for $75.00 US
Brian,
I have seen the blades you are talking about, from dewalt.
I have a problem since my saw is very small 140mm, and the only blades I could find are not sold in Portugal.
dewalt blade DT1202 136mm dia, 30tct , +3º
If you know some place when I can buy online such kind of blades, please let me know
I have seen the blades you are talking about, from dewalt.
I have a problem since my saw is very small 140mm, and the only blades I could find are not sold in Portugal.
dewalt blade DT1202 136mm dia, 30tct , +3º
If you know some place when I can buy online such kind of blades, please let me know
Pedro
That's small (less than 6"). I couldn't find any www dealers still in buisiness from any of my old (1998) woodwork magazines. I'll look at my favorite blade shop next time I can find an excuse to go. Maybe a melamine scoring blade will fit. Let me know arbor size.
One other concern is that such a small saw may not have the torque to cut alumunim.
Is your saw a hand held circular saw?
That's small (less than 6"). I couldn't find any www dealers still in buisiness from any of my old (1998) woodwork magazines. I'll look at my favorite blade shop next time I can find an excuse to go. Maybe a melamine scoring blade will fit. Let me know arbor size.
One other concern is that such a small saw may not have the torque to cut alumunim.
Is your saw a hand held circular saw?
Pedro - blades
I have been happy with some of the EBay sellers of "small parts" -- you will see an item which is close to what you need, send them a query, and they might come up with it. Machine tool guys seem to be very friendly and easy to deal with.
Dewalt has a distributor in Spain but not Portugaul.
Brian: -- I gave my radial arm saw to a client -- free (well he was a good client and his kids were grown up) It was a beautiful DeWalt from the 1950's but the most frightening thing I have ever worked with. I much prefer my 12" contractor saw -- I spent about as much on the fence as the saw, and it was worth every penny!
I have been happy with some of the EBay sellers of "small parts" -- you will see an item which is close to what you need, send them a query, and they might come up with it. Machine tool guys seem to be very friendly and easy to deal with.
Dewalt has a distributor in Spain but not Portugaul.
Brian: -- I gave my radial arm saw to a client -- free (well he was a good client and his kids were grown up) It was a beautiful DeWalt from the 1950's but the most frightening thing I have ever worked with. I much prefer my 12" contractor saw -- I spent about as much on the fence as the saw, and it was worth every penny!
jackinnj,
I must agree
Cutting wood on a radial arm saw scares me to death when you feel the motor start pulling and climbing. With the shallow depth you would have to use to cut aluminum and its strenght compared to wood, I'm sure the motor would climb on top of the plate and come after you.
Who invented that widow maker POS anyway.
I think sliding miter saws will completely eliminate them in the next few years.
I must agree
Cutting wood on a radial arm saw scares me to death when you feel the motor start pulling and climbing. With the shallow depth you would have to use to cut aluminum and its strenght compared to wood, I'm sure the motor would climb on top of the plate and come after you.
Who invented that widow maker POS anyway.
I think sliding miter saws will completely eliminate them in the next few years.
PedroPO said:
That was the saw that I tried once, it was not bad (for cutting wood, never tried metal). Also, WalMart (where I bought that from) had some replacements blades (for fine cut, fast cut, etc., but not metal IIRC). I subsequently returned it as I do not have enough space in my appt to use a saw. Also, my approach has been to keep the contruction as simple as possible: my Zen4 has only 2 cuts (wood), and this TB open baffle has none (other than the circular ones) - I like simple designs (circuit as well as construction). Part of the challenge (for me) is to make use of available (nearest HD) materials without modification to achieve desired goals. So far I have been able to get away with just a router.
Attachments
Sliding mitres replace radial arm? not in my shop
While sliding mitre saws are very usefull, there is no way that they will eliminate the radial arm.
I own a table saw and a radial arm saw, and i find the radial arm saw indespensible for most of the work that i do (mostly wood). There are things that you can do on a radial arm saw with great accuracy that you couldn't even think of on any other tool. Like cutting dados and rabbits on an angle, very hard to do on a table saw, easier with a router, sraight cutting bit and a fence, but super easy and accurate. And as far as the saw being scary, the only setup that scares me on the radial arm saw is when ripping, Still hate doing it that way, thats why i got the table saw. If you clamp your piece down well and take your time and use the right blade for the job and do large cuts in multiple depths you should have great succes with a radial arm saw. An indespensible tool in my shop.
Brian Donaldson said:
While sliding mitre saws are very usefull, there is no way that they will eliminate the radial arm.
I own a table saw and a radial arm saw, and i find the radial arm saw indespensible for most of the work that i do (mostly wood). There are things that you can do on a radial arm saw with great accuracy that you couldn't even think of on any other tool. Like cutting dados and rabbits on an angle, very hard to do on a table saw, easier with a router, sraight cutting bit and a fence, but super easy and accurate. And as far as the saw being scary, the only setup that scares me on the radial arm saw is when ripping, Still hate doing it that way, thats why i got the table saw. If you clamp your piece down well and take your time and use the right blade for the job and do large cuts in multiple depths you should have great succes with a radial arm saw. An indespensible tool in my shop.
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