For circle cuts:
It's easier and safer to start a router cut into the middle of a panel with a plunge router.
With a fixed depth base, you need to 'tilt in' the router to start the cut in the middle of a panel and it's hard to avoid a divot.
For rabetting or chamfering existing openings, or for working along edges, a fixed base router (with appropriate cutters) will do the job.
BTW, thinking through the sequence of cuts (radius and depth) can get the rabbets established from the start. Also, putting a temporary 'brace' under the working area can stablilze the pivot for your circle-cutting jig.
If you don't already have a router, getting a 'kit' which has a motor and two bases (plunge and fixed) is my recommendation. Porter-Cable and Bosch are common - I have both and like them, though the plunge mechanism on the Bosch gets my vote. If you can, try the plunge mechanism (just up/down, release/lock - no need to power up the router) on your potential purchase.
I'd avoid cheap knockoffs and low-end models when considering tools that spin quickly. I've had cheapo routers (and cutters) that were so off-balance that they shook loose the collet.
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There are some safe and effective ways to work around this limitation, but the plunge router remains the most straightforward tool for the task.
There are several good models out there, from various manufacturers. Stick with the name-brands and try to find as many honest, independent reviews as possible. Shop the sales and specials from authorized distributors. Routers are the only power tool I have ever legitimately worn out. (I.e., not accelerated a failure due to abuse, accident, etc.) Even my Porter-Cable 690, now almost 35 years old, has required some dealer service. The router my grandkids may someday inherit is a Black & Decker 444M professional router (long out of production) that I picked up cheap at a cabinet shop bankruptcy auction, refurbished (replaced switch and power cord) and now use for any heavy cuts.
Have recently used a "Rigid" (brand) fixed-base router on several occasions and I'm generally impressed by the tool, except that the bit has come loose in the collet on more than one occasion - not just ruining the workpiece, but creating a potential safety hazard.
Dale
Victoria, Dale, thank you very much.
Was leaning towards buying the black and decker plunge for 55. Really enjoyed the build, just don't know if I will continue to do them or not you know? If I was sure I'd go with the same brand as my drill that all around has been the superior tool brand I've ever used in Dewalt. Love that drill, and a must own in my book.
Ryobi is another brand I was considering. The Jig drill that we had since I can remember went out and really like the Ryobi I replaced it with. Good price, solid build quality/design, and smooth.
Skil was the other.
Bits.
Which ball bearing sizes on the bit are the ones you use to cut the inner ring that the speaker lays on? Saw a 15 piece set rated well on Amazon that cost $30 which is about the same as the bit by itself. Hard to tell if it has the same one needed.
Thanks again gentlemen
Was leaning towards buying the black and decker plunge for 55. Really enjoyed the build, just don't know if I will continue to do them or not you know? If I was sure I'd go with the same brand as my drill that all around has been the superior tool brand I've ever used in Dewalt. Love that drill, and a must own in my book.
Ryobi is another brand I was considering. The Jig drill that we had since I can remember went out and really like the Ryobi I replaced it with. Good price, solid build quality/design, and smooth.
Skil was the other.
Bits.
Which ball bearing sizes on the bit are the ones you use to cut the inner ring that the speaker lays on? Saw a 15 piece set rated well on Amazon that cost $30 which is about the same as the bit by itself. Hard to tell if it has the same one needed.
Thanks again gentlemen
If you are cutting a new baffle and need a circular recess, you can cut the rabbet with a non-bearing straight bit.
I've never had much luck with cheap (Grizzly/BusyBee/Harbor Freight/?) 'sets' of bits - I prefer to buy the cutters I need one-by-one.
LeeValley bits are OK, Amana bits from a place like ToolsToday are probably better. I've used them all.
I keep the cheap bits for routing junk wood and abrasive materials.
If you are on a budget, a cheap router and cheap bits will match up I suppose. Next up on my list would be a cheap router and good bits, then better quality for both.
Cutting plywood can be hard on bits because of the glue lines.
BTW, I've found that most tool companies seem to be able to make only a few different tools well. Milwaukee for HoleHawg or Sawzall, Skil for skilsaw, etc...
I forgot to mention in previous reply that for general-purpose router applications, you should consider only routers with 1/2" collets. Bits with the 1/2" shank seem to run truer, with less vibration, than 1/4" shank bits.
One of the mailorder suppliers used to offer a set of basic bits that was a good value. As I recall, you got several sizes of straight bits, a 1/2" piloted trim bit, and a couple of piloted roundover bits. Then you could select one or two bits to complete the set - ogee, slot cutters, dovetail, bowl bottom, etc depending on what projects you had in mind.
Dale
Are you referring to this method:
- Using a trammel (circle jig), route a groove with an OD equal to the OD of the speaker frame but only as deep as the speaker lip's depth. (Actually, the groove's OD should be about 1/32" larger than the speaker frame.)
- Reduce the RADIUS setting of the by an amount equal to the width of the rabbet ("shelf") you want left around the mounting hole.
- Route a full-depth cutout.
Yeah, in most cases I get router bits from companies that are in business to sell router bits. Unless they're deeply discounted, buying a 'set' seldom makes sense unless you have a definite use for all of the bits in the 'set'.
One of the mailorder suppliers used to offer a set of basic bits that was a good value. As I recall, you got several sizes of straight bits, a 1/2" piloted trim bit, and a couple of piloted roundover bits. Then you could select one or two bits to complete the set - ogee, slot cutters, dovetail, bowl bottom, etc depending on what projects you had in mind.
I've been quite pleased with Amana. Also Eagle America, Bosch, and Freud are decent; and the offerings from woodworkers' specialty stores Rockler and Woodcraft.
Dale
Honestly, if you just want it to cut circles for speaker holes, you might be happier with a smaller trim router, also called laminate trimmer. Small, cheap, easy to handle. They typically have 1/4" collets, not the beefier 1/2", but for just cutting baffle holes and doing the odd roundover, it will work just fine. if you need to cut through thick marine ply, you'll just have to cut a small depth, increase depth, cut again, repeat.
Victoria, Dale, Astro, thank you.
After I sent the last reply I ordered the
Black & Decker RP250 10-Amp 2-1/4-Inch Variable Speed Plunge Router. Other models with same amperage and specs were $100. For $55 shipped this seems like a pretty good deal. It's only the 1/4 collet, yet believe it will suit my needs.
And this 15 piece bit set.
15 piece Router Bit Set, 1/4" Shank - Edge Treatment And Grooving Router Bits - Amazon.com
Cheap quality yet for $15 and 82 reviews of 4.25/5 star average seems like a good buy. We'll see.
I still need a circle jig to cut circles correct? The circle jig model 240 on Partsexpress is the best looking one I've seen. Allowing circle cuts from 2'-11' I believe. Maybe 13'.
Astro,
I purchased a 1/4 trim router from Arbor Freight which was my first visit there. Haven't used it, afraid to. Used the sandpaper I got there and a entire pack lasted as long as 1 sheet if the 3M I normally use. While sanding with it I was thinking Arbor Freight is like those dollar stores for tools. Having the proper is crucial as you all know. Feel like if I turn on the trim router for over 10 minutes it's going to fry based on quality of the other things I got there. If it worked looks like it'd be very beneficial on smaller areas and the sides.
Victoria, I'm know what you mean on the brands having a few items they excel at. Dewalt drill has always been bulletproof, but haven't used many of there other products
After I sent the last reply I ordered the
Black & Decker RP250 10-Amp 2-1/4-Inch Variable Speed Plunge Router. Other models with same amperage and specs were $100. For $55 shipped this seems like a pretty good deal. It's only the 1/4 collet, yet believe it will suit my needs.
And this 15 piece bit set.
15 piece Router Bit Set, 1/4" Shank - Edge Treatment And Grooving Router Bits - Amazon.com
Cheap quality yet for $15 and 82 reviews of 4.25/5 star average seems like a good buy. We'll see.
I still need a circle jig to cut circles correct? The circle jig model 240 on Partsexpress is the best looking one I've seen. Allowing circle cuts from 2'-11' I believe. Maybe 13'.
Astro,
I purchased a 1/4 trim router from Arbor Freight which was my first visit there. Haven't used it, afraid to. Used the sandpaper I got there and a entire pack lasted as long as 1 sheet if the 3M I normally use. While sanding with it I was thinking Arbor Freight is like those dollar stores for tools. Having the proper is crucial as you all know. Feel like if I turn on the trim router for over 10 minutes it's going to fry based on quality of the other things I got there. If it worked looks like it'd be very beneficial on smaller areas and the sides.
Victoria, I'm know what you mean on the brands having a few items they excel at. Dewalt drill has always been bulletproof, but haven't used many of there other products
You can DIY a jig with a piece of plywood, similar to the commercial jigs with the 'many holes', but just for the dimensions you need. It takes a bit of experimenting, but works fine if you only have a few cuts to make.
If you have an adjustable trammel for your router it will work for larger openings.
Or get the PartsExpress jig
https://www.parts-express.com/jasper-circle-jig-model-200--365-250
I have a few of those cheap laminate trimmer routers.
If you have a dial indicator you can check the runout - it can vary a lot.
If you get one (or more) that run reasonably true, they're useful. If there's too much runout, or a problem with the collet (clean up the burrs) they will let the cutter loose - a safety problem as mentioned above, plus it screws up your project.
Mine seem to last OK-and they came with spare brushes. I keep one with a roundover bit, and one with a flush trim bearing bit under the bench for quick jobs.
If you can get them for $20-25 they make some sense, IMO. Anything above that price, and I'd be looking for a PorterCable or Bosch (Colt?) trimmer on sale/clearout. Even Ridgid would probably be better.
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One thing I've learned about bits loosening in use is that the bit should not be inserted fully before tightening the collet. The device relies on the taper of the hollow shaft compressing the matching taper of the collet. This force is applied by the big nut pushing the collet a tiny bit into the shaft. A bind can occur if the collet grips the bit shank before sufficient torque has been developed. Counterintuitive since the wrench tells you it's tight but that can be because the bit is bottomed out without enough grip in the collet to withstand the torture that is ordinary use. So I snug the collet, pull the bit out from full insertion a sixteenth or 1-2 mm, then cinch it.
Agree with the two-base kit. And with buying quality. And especially with having many routers of all three sizes.
Agree with the two-base kit. And with buying quality. And especially with having many routers of all three sizes.
That should give you a glimpse of what a router is capable of doing, and complete your project if you are patient and carefully think through what you are doing. But I predict you will have a more capable machine on your wish-list before the project is finished. That's OK - I wore out my first router, one of Sears' lower-end models, while figuring out what a router can do, and how to do it safely. (And if the situation applies to you, Father's Day isn't that far off . . . )
"We'll see." may be an optimistic attitude. If you find only 2 or 3 of those 15 bits to be useful, effective, and durable, you'll have your money's worth.
The least expensive - yet quite effective - "circle jig" I ever used on a router was a piece of relatively thin material (perhaps 1/8" Masonite? Or a scrap of wall paneling?) held onto the router base with duct tape, and a nail for the pivot.
Trammel-type circle jigs are readily constructed at home. The most impressive DIY jig I've seen is on the Forum at:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/construction-tips/271242-custom-circle-jig-dewalt-compact-router.html
My most recent shop-built circle jig, which can go from hockey pucks to table tops, is at:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/construction-tips/247290-cutting-circles-jig-saw-2.html#post3929167
Dale
Tom, you can get high-quality laminate trimmers, not just junky ones from Harbour Freight, etc. We have Makita trimmers over in this part of the world with bearings and motors that will last a decade. They are very much more user friendly for small projects than full size routers. I have a full-sized plunge Hitachi, another Hitachi mounted to a router table, and a Makita trimmer --- for speaker cabinet construction, I rarely use anything other than the trimmer. For small diameter circle cuts, it is definitely the tool for the job. A full size router comes into its own on cuts > about 10" or so with a traditional jig. Templates of course are useful for smaller diameters.
Not trying to dissuade you from a full-sized router (as you can never have enough power tools!), just trying to offer my 2 cents.
Cheers.
I've survived using a vintage B&D router with the rack and pinion depth adjuster. $35 from a pawn shop, but the motor and bearings were fine. This shows the adjustable guide I made... plywood with a 0.25 inch slot, and a recess for a t-nut with the prongs broken and filed off, and a bolt and washer. http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/construction-tips/160422-driver-cutout-tips.html#post2801770
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