Hi,
i am desoldering parts with tiny leads on a unit with tiny traces
I am using a desoldering pump with mechanic action and i do not like it
What do you use ?
I am not looking for a complete desoldering station, that i would love by the way
Just a decent and not very expensive desoldering device
In this operation i risked to destroy some units ... it is even more delicate than soldering
Kind advice will be very much appreciated
Kind regards, gino
i am desoldering parts with tiny leads on a unit with tiny traces
I am using a desoldering pump with mechanic action and i do not like it
What do you use ?
I am not looking for a complete desoldering station, that i would love by the way
Just a decent and not very expensive desoldering device
In this operation i risked to destroy some units ... it is even more delicate than soldering
Kind advice will be very much appreciated
Kind regards, gino
Youtube is your friend
Have you tried solder braid/ solder wick?
Hi and thanks for the kind reply
I watched a video on youtube about this ... i did not like it
I like something like a real electric pump ... something very fast, very pro and very cheap
Ok .. i could make an effort for something very nice
I intend to desolder a real lot
Only for this preamp i have there are tenths of parts to be replaced
New caps, diodes ... and the traces are very delicate
Kind regards, gino
Hi i am actually replacing 20 years old parts in a preamp with new and supposedly better components
They are very tiny diodes (1N4007 ... someone told me that they are not the best around and i have already bought UF4007 to replace them all)
and electrolytic caps ... about 20 years old
I am still undecided between Panasonic FC and Nichicon Gold as possible options for new caps.
I hope that at the end of the process the supply voltage would be less noisy
and the overall sound more transparent
Thanks a lot. Kind regards, gino
So you are trying to repair a PCB.
Best way is to chop the component leaving long legs in the PCB. Then heat each leg and pull it out. This will be easier than trying to pull out the entire component.
Caps are a bit more tricky but I stay with the philosophy - f**k the component, save the board.
Best way is to chop the component leaving long legs in the PCB. Then heat each leg and pull it out. This will be easier than trying to pull out the entire component.
Caps are a bit more tricky but I stay with the philosophy - f**k the component, save the board.
Braid every time for me. And a hot iron with a large tip that can carry the heat.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/parts/127924-working-smd-how-do-without-specialised-tools.html
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/parts/127924-working-smd-how-do-without-specialised-tools.html
if the components have actual leads - and you are trashing them - then sometimes you can just shear them at the body with a Xacto knife (eye protection!) without badly torqueing the pads - the pads are much stronger bound to the pcb when not at soldering temp
then you just mop up the leads with iron and wick after removing the part body
works for thru hole parts too with diagonal cutters for heavier leads - easier to remove just one lead from one hole at a time
then you just mop up the leads with iron and wick after removing the part body
works for thru hole parts too with diagonal cutters for heavier leads - easier to remove just one lead from one hole at a time
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Hi and thanks and sorry for the belated reply.
House cleaning yesterday
The pcb is not broken per se ... actually the preamp is working. It is about 20 years old.
But the "upgraditis" syndrome you know ... so i decided to replace all the PS caps with newer and supposedly better ones and possibly the diodes
The leads are very tiny and short under the pcb
And with the desoldering pump i am using i have issues
I need something very very efficient that even an unskilled person can operate
I am sure that pro desoldering station are sublime ... but the cost is very very high.
i am so convinced that desoldering is the real tricky part that in the future if this will be my main hobby i could even but one of this
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I have already risked to ruin pcbs during desoldering
In comparison to solder with the right alloy is a joke.
So to end the pcb is fine ... for now
I have ordered another one by the way and i have put the project on hold for this ... i do not want to destroy the pcb ... traces are very very thin and delicate
Thanks a lot again, gino
Hi and thanks for the kind suggestion.
I was using this one here ... i left it at parents home in the cellar
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
i think it was ok ... with some cleaning issues and i did not like the handle
But for the rest worked ok
I have ordered another one ... this one here
Wholesale Product Snapshot Product name is S-993A Electric Vacuum Desoldering Pump Solder Sucker Gun 220V 90W Upgrade from MT-993
The desoldering is absolutely the most delicate phase for me
The pcbs especially in consumer and not professional products are extremely delicate
For me pro equipment are designed and built with maintenance in mind
Consumer products are more like decorative objects.
I have already risked to destroy the unit
From what i understand there are parts that tend to get bad with age more than others ... caps for first
I do not know the actual lifespan of a cap ... but i think that after 20 years should be replaced with possibly new and better ones
To end the tools are fundamental
When a tool is right is very difficult to make wrong actions
Thanks a lot, gino
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Desoldering is a skill that needs to be learnt and so its always best to practice on some old PCB first. Discrete components leads should be freed in under a second using braid... if not then the technique or iron isn't correct. You need a large flat wedge shaped tip for best results, a pointed tip doesn't have the thermal capacity to heat the braid/joint.
Hi and i agree completely. As i said i risked already to damage some pcbs
Especially the old ones are quite delicate.
And some parts have just to go, like old one turn bias pots ... they are just ridiculous compare to new multiturn sealed ones.
And bias setting is a delicate operation ...
A lot depends on the main goal i think.
If DIY from scratch is the goal well not many desoldering activity indeed
But if repair/upgrade of old equipment is the goal i think that an investment in a decent desoldering station is reasonable.
I think that 200 USD can buy a decent one to do a job fast and clean
Desoldering must be a pleasure not a nightmare like to populate again a pcb with shining brand new components. A ten minutes work.
Then a T controlled welder cost almost nothing in comparison
Also the nozzle size matters
Thanks again, gino
I'm also using solder wick for the 'delicate' parts. One thing I found out that works well with old (almost a little crumpled looking) or lead-free solder, and especially on plated-through boards is to re-solder the joints first, ie. apply some fresh (preferably leaded) solder. This helps to liquify the whole solder quick and thorough when you're applying the wick.
It's a little more work, but still better than ruining the board IMHO
It's a little more work, but still better than ruining the board IMHO
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