Stereo TV testing
Rolled the filter into the living room. Have to say that it really helped with the noise floor and seems to crispen things up.
I do know the MKII 7k is not reading correctly. Its say's I'm running 40+ something amps through it. That much would start a house fire or melt it it down. Hopefully it would trip the breaker.
I've had measurements at the breaker box before and with a larger tube Citation II amp cranked up and all the lights on in that circuit, didin't pull much current... something like 3 1/2- 5 or 7 amps max. I didn't log it at the time. Still plenty of head room.
I'm not sure which internal device measures current or how to trim the reading etc. Obviously it isn't working properly. voltage readings are close perhaps a bit high at 123Vac 120Vac.
Not sure if there are some irregularities or flybacks from the speaker cables or the digital feed cable to my DAC. I use a cat5 for each speaker, broken out into stripes for the negative and solid for the positive.
Unsure if and what value resisor I should try terminating them at the speaker end.
I've got a Marantz CD player changer and run that with a digital out to the Cursio DAC. I'v heard and read that the digital line is suseptable to RF and other interference. I'm thinking of using a small mica cap or polystryene cap at near the end of the digital cable to see if it can clean up some of the slight crackle sounds around the edges of the music and vocals.
I made about 1/2 the interconnects and the digital cable myself. The others were from a dedicated audio store. The ones I made are from a special Belden cable that I had to wait a month for it to come in. I had to buy 100' or 500' reel of it. Its the Teflon/foamed Teflon stuff let me see what's written on the jacket...BELDEN-? 89359 I think. Very hard to read and very stiff tightly jacket and braded cable.
As y'all are aware with enhanced systems it becomes a double edged sword at times. About 1/3 the discs I can't stand even to listen to them any more. Many of the collections sound like garbage.
Some of the early discs sound very good but getting the new version of the same disc doesn't sound the same. Many of the reissues sound crapy.
At some point I should get out the turntable and try listening to some vintage vinyl.
However, having a well mastered anything on a good system can be an incredibly moving experience.
As my musical spiritual guide used to say:
"Fron the heart, may it go to the heart." Ludwig von-
Current draw with stereo and TV connected
Current draw with only TV connected.
Rolled the filter into the living room. Have to say that it really helped with the noise floor and seems to crispen things up.
I do know the MKII 7k is not reading correctly. Its say's I'm running 40+ something amps through it. That much would start a house fire or melt it it down. Hopefully it would trip the breaker.
I've had measurements at the breaker box before and with a larger tube Citation II amp cranked up and all the lights on in that circuit, didin't pull much current... something like 3 1/2- 5 or 7 amps max. I didn't log it at the time. Still plenty of head room.
I'm not sure which internal device measures current or how to trim the reading etc. Obviously it isn't working properly. voltage readings are close perhaps a bit high at 123Vac 120Vac.
Not sure if there are some irregularities or flybacks from the speaker cables or the digital feed cable to my DAC. I use a cat5 for each speaker, broken out into stripes for the negative and solid for the positive.
Unsure if and what value resisor I should try terminating them at the speaker end.
I've got a Marantz CD player changer and run that with a digital out to the Cursio DAC. I'v heard and read that the digital line is suseptable to RF and other interference. I'm thinking of using a small mica cap or polystryene cap at near the end of the digital cable to see if it can clean up some of the slight crackle sounds around the edges of the music and vocals.
I made about 1/2 the interconnects and the digital cable myself. The others were from a dedicated audio store. The ones I made are from a special Belden cable that I had to wait a month for it to come in. I had to buy 100' or 500' reel of it. Its the Teflon/foamed Teflon stuff let me see what's written on the jacket...BELDEN-? 89359 I think. Very hard to read and very stiff tightly jacket and braded cable.
As y'all are aware with enhanced systems it becomes a double edged sword at times. About 1/3 the discs I can't stand even to listen to them any more. Many of the collections sound like garbage.
Some of the early discs sound very good but getting the new version of the same disc doesn't sound the same. Many of the reissues sound crapy.
At some point I should get out the turntable and try listening to some vintage vinyl.
However, having a well mastered anything on a good system can be an incredibly moving experience.
As my musical spiritual guide used to say:
"Fron the heart, may it go to the heart." Ludwig von-
Current draw with stereo and TV connected
Current draw with only TV connected.
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Now that the house is quiet and I can actually hear, the noise floor of my gear has virtually dissappeared.
What's left is the clarity to hear the music, the good and the bad. I'm working my way through my referencs.
Speakers are the Klipsch Cornwalls. Horns externally dampened - automotive undercarriage coating stops the ringing. Crossovers rebuilt, updated with paper/plastic in oil caps. Cabinet centerbraced to the rear. Rear panel has internal 16 gauge plate steel plate epoxied to it and batting reapplied.
Then I crank up the music and play along. It's been a while for me but I did it.
Two faves to play along with are: Van Morrison - Moondance (frets 3 & 5) ZZ Top - Fool for your stockings (5 & 10) I - IV
If you don't play much, just play one note on the string and figure out the change (going to the different fret). from fret 3 to fret 5.
Then feel your way to the other strings. The hard part is learning to feel and learning to trust your feeling.
I play on the other side of the living room. I set up my 1970s Fender Virbolux Reverb amp 2 x 10 inch Jensen Mod Speakers and play a G&L Deluxe F-hole guitar. It looks like a hollow body Fender Telecaster. It's light weight and had good sound.
This is the method I would use to verify and check a professtional musician's amplifier after servicing and updating or modifying it.
It's easy to get something working again and getting "sound" from it.
It's a whole 'nuther ball game making an amplifier become an extension of one's soul.
The great thing about the blues is when someone calls out a slow blues in A everyone knows how to play it.
What's left is the clarity to hear the music, the good and the bad. I'm working my way through my referencs.
Speakers are the Klipsch Cornwalls. Horns externally dampened - automotive undercarriage coating stops the ringing. Crossovers rebuilt, updated with paper/plastic in oil caps. Cabinet centerbraced to the rear. Rear panel has internal 16 gauge plate steel plate epoxied to it and batting reapplied.
Then I crank up the music and play along. It's been a while for me but I did it.
Two faves to play along with are: Van Morrison - Moondance (frets 3 & 5) ZZ Top - Fool for your stockings (5 & 10) I - IV
If you don't play much, just play one note on the string and figure out the change (going to the different fret). from fret 3 to fret 5.
Then feel your way to the other strings. The hard part is learning to feel and learning to trust your feeling.
I play on the other side of the living room. I set up my 1970s Fender Virbolux Reverb amp 2 x 10 inch Jensen Mod Speakers and play a G&L Deluxe F-hole guitar. It looks like a hollow body Fender Telecaster. It's light weight and had good sound.
This is the method I would use to verify and check a professtional musician's amplifier after servicing and updating or modifying it.
It's easy to get something working again and getting "sound" from it.
It's a whole 'nuther ball game making an amplifier become an extension of one's soul.
The great thing about the blues is when someone calls out a slow blues in A everyone knows how to play it.
I'm bumping this older thread with the hope that I can get some insight into a used Monster HTPS-7000 mk2 that I just picked up.
The unit seems to operate properly, but the voltage reading on the front display is incorrect; my Fluke MM reads 121.2 VAC from the wall outlet, while the Monster unit reads 110. I measured 124 VAC from one of the isolated balanced power outlets on the unit. Is the incorrect voltage display indicative of a problem? If not, is there a calibration or adjustment so I can get the voltage to display correctly?
I removed the lid to have a look inside, and there is fairly loud buzz coming from the main filter board when the outlets are all powered on. There is no buzz when the outlets are not powered up. I think the noise is emitting from where the smaller transformer is located. The buzz is just barely audible when the chassis cover is in place. I'm curious to know if some noise is normal when these units are operating.
Thanks in advance
UPDATE: the voltage reading seems to jump around somewhat sporadically, it's currently alternating between 111 and 115 with nothing connected.
The unit seems to operate properly, but the voltage reading on the front display is incorrect; my Fluke MM reads 121.2 VAC from the wall outlet, while the Monster unit reads 110. I measured 124 VAC from one of the isolated balanced power outlets on the unit. Is the incorrect voltage display indicative of a problem? If not, is there a calibration or adjustment so I can get the voltage to display correctly?
I removed the lid to have a look inside, and there is fairly loud buzz coming from the main filter board when the outlets are all powered on. There is no buzz when the outlets are not powered up. I think the noise is emitting from where the smaller transformer is located. The buzz is just barely audible when the chassis cover is in place. I'm curious to know if some noise is normal when these units are operating.
Thanks in advance
UPDATE: the voltage reading seems to jump around somewhat sporadically, it's currently alternating between 111 and 115 with nothing connected.
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First, the buzzing of the filter inductors is normal although not desirable.
Second, the metering is "peak" responding and rms indicating. Harmonics make for the difference. Power supplies run from the peak voltage which is why we chose it. There is an adjustment inside somewhere. You need a low distortion AC source to set it.
Second, the metering is "peak" responding and rms indicating. Harmonics make for the difference. Power supplies run from the peak voltage which is why we chose it. There is an adjustment inside somewhere. You need a low distortion AC source to set it.
Does the Monster HTPS-5100mk2 measure power the same way as the 7000mk2? My 5100 stays quite steady at 120 VAC, while the 7000 is fluctuating quite rapidly between 111 and 115. I bought the 7000 to replace the 5100 but am not sure I should put it in my HT rig until I know it's working 100%.
Attachments
Thanks for joining in Mr. Marsh, it's always very cool to hear from someone who designed the gear I'm obsessing over
Here's a quick overview of my experience with power conditioners in both my 2 channel and HT rigs:
- I own a Monster/Entech power noise detector, and my house is the noisiest of any house I've tested (I've tested the homes of many of my audio enthusiast friends)
- If I run my rig straight from the wall, the soundstage is small and compressed, and there is a noticeable hard edge or sibilance
- The original HTS-3500 I purchased years ago improved the sound
- I replaced the HTS-3500 with a Powervar ABC-1200 isolation transformer based conditioner (it runs everything but the power amp) as the sound stage was deeper and wider than with the HTS-3500. Also the Powervar lacks the convenience features of the Monster, and retailed for a lot more.
- I kept the Powervar in my 2 channel rig, and eventually moved up to an HTPS-5100mk2 for my home theatre setup where it's many outlets and form factor make it practically a necessity
- Given how the Powervar performed, the HTPS-7000mk2 with its twin isolation transformers seemed like the ultimate solution; after searching for a while I located the unit that I've been asking about in this thread (too bad it appears to be an early non-Signature version)
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So I spent some more time comparing my HTPS-5100 against the new to me HTPS-7000.
There is a trim pot on the 7000's T2 board which let me adjust the AC reading to match the 5100, which was reading the same as my Fluke 87V.
I kept in mind Demian's comment about the hum coming from the filter inductors, but I could barely hear any hum from the 5100 with the cover off, while the 7000 sounded like it was going to either launch into space or self destruct.
I foolishly convinced myself something must be suspect in the power supply located on the filter board. Since only cost a few $ in parts, I changed all the electrolytic caps (they had a date code of 2002) and the rectifiers, only to discover nothing changed. Hmm, could the transformer be on its last legs?
Then I noticed another difference between the two units...the film caps used on the filter board where glued in place on the 5100, but not the 7000. I got out my handy 3M hot glue gun and proceeded to glue the crap out the caps on the 7000. I also glued around the relays and the plastic screw terminals to kill any chance of them resonating. Now the 7000 is MUCH quieter, just a little louder than the 5100. Continuing with the damping theme, I also stuck a large piece of Dynamat like material to the chassis lid. Now with the top buttoned up, the buzz is undetectable.
There is a trim pot on the 7000's T2 board which let me adjust the AC reading to match the 5100, which was reading the same as my Fluke 87V.
I kept in mind Demian's comment about the hum coming from the filter inductors, but I could barely hear any hum from the 5100 with the cover off, while the 7000 sounded like it was going to either launch into space or self destruct.
I foolishly convinced myself something must be suspect in the power supply located on the filter board. Since only cost a few $ in parts, I changed all the electrolytic caps (they had a date code of 2002) and the rectifiers, only to discover nothing changed. Hmm, could the transformer be on its last legs?
Then I noticed another difference between the two units...the film caps used on the filter board where glued in place on the 5100, but not the 7000. I got out my handy 3M hot glue gun and proceeded to glue the crap out the caps on the 7000. I also glued around the relays and the plastic screw terminals to kill any chance of them resonating. Now the 7000 is MUCH quieter, just a little louder than the 5100. Continuing with the damping theme, I also stuck a large piece of Dynamat like material to the chassis lid. Now with the top buttoned up, the buzz is undetectable.
Attachments
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Digging up an old thread here, but my 7000 isnt powering up either. When I pulled the power board out, the R8 resistor next to the 7kM2 T142 chip was burnt up and all flaked away so I can't a good reading on it to order a replacement. The initial pictures in this thread are no longer available to view and I cant make out the color codes in other pictures since the schematics for this unit are unobtanium.
Would anybody be willing to help me out with a vale for R8 and or a reason why it may have burnt up in the first place. I checked the diodes around it and the immediate connections and they all seem to be fine.
Cheers
Would anybody be willing to help me out with a vale for R8 and or a reason why it may have burnt up in the first place. I checked the diodes around it and the immediate connections and they all seem to be fine.
Cheers
My 7000 also is not powering on and looks like that same R8 resistor is burnt up. I'm not very familiar with resistor markings, were you able to identify the value for the R8 resistor?
Thanks
I have bought an HTPS 7000 MKI and I have two questions: from the second post in this thread, it seems it can be cabled internally for 115 or 230V. Can anyone point me at the point where this is done (I see that the isolation transformers only have primaries for 0-115V).
In another thread audio1 wrote that the main difference between MKi and MKii versions is that the CT of the isolation transformers are switchable:
One more thing: I see my unit has a switch on the back which is missing on some MK1 pics on the web (and on some MK2 pics too) : Noise reduction mode: balanced or Normal (isolated). I have not seen this explained on the manuals I have found for both versions.
In another thread audio1 wrote that the main difference between MKi and MKii versions is that the CT of the isolation transformers are switchable:
Does this mean I could just disconnect jumpers J118 and J124, to try see which way it works better in my case?
One more thing: I see my unit has a switch on the back which is missing on some MK1 pics on the web (and on some MK2 pics too) : Noise reduction mode: balanced or Normal (isolated). I have not seen this explained on the manuals I have found for both versions.
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