"Refurbishing" my Weller soldering tip ...

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Hello,

Wonder if one of you know how to remove a sort of grayish layer from the surface of my Weller W61 solder iron tip?

What happens is this:

When I first use the tip it looks as if the solder makes a layer on the tip's surface - the tip is has a shiny solder looking surface - but after a rather short while it is as if this layer disappears and instead the surface now gets a grayish/brown appearance and the tip no longer transfers heat as efficiently to the components I'm soldering ... Apart from this phenomenon the tip doesn't look old and I guess I may have used it altogether about 40 hours.

Any hints on what can be done is appreciated ;-)

Jesper
 
When my iron tips get scaly and nasty, I usually sand them down to copper when they are cool and retin them. I usually chuck them in a cordless drill to speed up the sanding process. Then i flux them and wrap thin solder around the tip in a coil before plugging in/turning on the iron. This usually works 4-5 times before the tip is just a nub and needs to be replaced. Also avoid leaving the iron plugged in for long periods it seems to minimize the scale.

Hope this helps...
 
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Hi all,

& thanks for replying ;-) I now have a better understanding of what has happened and - possibly - how to remove the scaling from my tips. Any of you have tried to have a small bath of tin standing next to the solder iron holder and then dip the tip in this from time to time? Or what do you do to prevent the scale from forming in the first place?

Best regards,

Jesper
 
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Just use a wet sponge and never sand off the iron of Weller solder tips. The iron is there for a reason. You must clean the tip after every time you use it with a wet sponge otherwise flux debri will "eat" the iron. If you are careful with tools and practice some basic hygiene they will last very long.

Simple.
 
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Hi again,

Found out yesterday that what causes the scaling on the tip is because when I have used it for soldering I clean it on the sponge and then let it be without solder on the tip until I use it again. This apparently doesn't happen when I leave the solder on the tip between solders ... Unfortunately, it makes for more solder fumes so a balance seems to be needed.

Thanks again for replying - I'm well underways now ;-)

Jesper
 
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Don't leave tin on the tip. Don't worry about the scaling, it will go away when you apply tin to the tip next time you are going to use it. If you leave tin on the tip the flux that is in the tin will corrode the iron clad tip and it will have a short life. I use WTCP-S Weller tools for a long time now and I am very sure about the flux "eating" the tips.

It is not difficult: clean your stuff after use. Like with any other tool. If you maintain your tools you can rely on them. If you neglect tools they mostly fail on the job you need them the most.
 
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Don't use a "wet" sponge, use a "damp" sponge. Soak the sponge, then squeeze out all the water possible.

When I start for the day, I let the iron warm up, then apply a liberal amount of fresh solder and let it sit a few seconds before cleaning it all off on the sponge. The flux removes any oxidation that has built up due to exposure to air since the last use, and the fresh solder tins the tip.

I usually swipe the tip on the sponge when I pick up the iron to use it, then put it back on the stand without cleaning again. When done for the day, I clean it before turning it off.

If you get nasty scaly buildup, you can remove it with a brass brush (not steel) or a copper pot scrubber (not steel wool). Never file or sand an iron-clad tip. That will be beginning of the end of it.

I have used the same tip on my weller for several years. I use Kester lead/tin (60/40) rosin-core solder. Maybe some other types of flux and solder will be more corrosive, but this stuff seems to be gentle. I also have one of these, which I rarely use (don't need to).
 
There's an alternative to wet sponges, made of a tangle of metal wires. These don't reduce the tip's temperature, so are worthwhile if you're in it hot-'n-heavy.

63/37 "eutectic" solder doesn't go through a plastic phase when cooling, and is slightly preferred. Costs the same, so I use it for everything.

Never put away your iron "clean"; always apply a fresh coat of solder.

All good fortune,
Chris
 
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Never put away your iron "clean"; always apply a fresh coat of solder.

How wrong. This was the habit (long ago) with plain copper soldering tips. Those were also the soldering tips that could be sanded. Think of the soldering tools with pistol shape form that had a transformer in them.

With iron clad tips you must clean them after use to prevent the tip from flux/rosin (corrosion). Read the manual of the manufacturer to check this.
 

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Hi all,

Hmmm... from reading what you write it seems there are many ways to make the iron tip work for long in a feasible way. What I've done for the last couple of days have been to apply a coat of solder to the tip at the end of the day and also do it from time to time during my soldering sessions. I don't know if this will give the tip a long life but it works reasonably. I'll try out some of your other tips in the days to come and then hopefully will find a way of handling this that works for me.

Thanks again for sharing your experiences with me ;-)

Jesper
 
Metcal recommend that 'each time you return the tip to the holder, apply solder to the tinned surfaces of the tip. The solder protects the tip from oxidation and prolongs the life of the tip.' Though I believe that it idles in the holder at a lower temperature.

Personally I apply solder when the iron isn't being used but the advice could vary depending on tip plating / solder and flux.

I would recommend not filing the tip because they are usually plated and any bending / sanding / filing damages it. As soon as it is breached the copper erodes behind the plating.

The old Weller TCP iron tips were pretty robust and could last years with DIY usage.

It was possible to buy small tins of tip cleaner that sort of worked. Also some solder has more flux than others and can help to clean the tip.
 
How wrong. This was the habit (long ago) with plain copper soldering tips. Those were also the soldering tips that could be sanded. Think of the soldering tools with pistol shape form that had a transformer in them.

With iron clad tips you must clean them after use to prevent the tip from flux/rosin (corrosion). Read the manual of the manufacturer to check this.
i registered just to see image in this post. i thought you posted some proof tinning improves corrosion. and you didn't. and it doesn't. :)

btw. i believe "soldering guns" are actually younger technology than "classic" irons..also, who said guns are copper-only tips?

from wikipedia on soldering iron:
Older and very cheap irons typically use a bare copper tip, which is shaped with a file or sandpaper. This dissolves gradually into the solder, suffering pitting and erosion of the shape. Copper tips are sometimes filed when worn down. Iron-plated copper tips have become increasingly popular since the 1980s. Because iron is not readily dissolved by molten solder, the plated tip is more durable than a bare copper one, though it will eventually wear out and need replacing. This is especially important when working at the higher temperatures needed for modern lead-free solders. Solid iron and steel tips are seldom used because they store less heat, and rusting can break the heating element.
two things:
you mention user manual, but did you check the linked weller tips?
To prevent burn out, always keep the tip tinned with a thin coat of solder - not only during
soldering but also when the iron is sitting at idle in the holder. Very often, an operator will wipe
the tip clean before returning the iron to the holder and will not retin the tip until starting the next
soldering task. This will cause rapid burn out.
( http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/equi...hing-my-weller-soldering-tip.html#post3086276 )
so according to weller (they manufacture some of the best irons out there) you got it backwards.

and here's something according to me: have you noticed how fast the flux/rosin evaporates on elevated temperature, ie those we use to solder?
what do you think is the fume that comes from the tinol (that's how we call "tin/lead+flux" in one wire over here) once we melt it?
how long do you think it can affect the tip once its molten?
so no, that flux will evaporate immediately and it won't do harm.
it's ment just to clean the metal you're soldering and it's ment to evaporate quickly.

one more thing: leaving tip untinned means you're leaving tip exposed to air, and air will oxidize it. not as fast as overheating it, but iron will oxidize on air, won't it?

(and yes, it's more important to tin the higher temp irons...for example 400°c iron wil oxidize rather quickly, so i unplug it first, and then tin it while it's getting cooler, because if i was to tin it while it's 400°c it would have less of an effect, as solder would melt away too quickly and i would still have the oxidized tip by the time it cools off)

also, how exactly would you remove all the tin from the tip? that's impossible.

overall, let's put this into perspective: sanding the tip is not something that will make the universe around you collapse :)D) but sure it's better to preserve it if possible.
about the longevity: you know the sanded tip will last as much as the "ironed" tip, as long as you don't use both soldering irons. ;)
ie think about how much you use the soldering iron...if you don't use it much and you have absolute need to modify it's shape, why not? are replacement tips expensive?
well, if they are, preserve that iron, and buy cheap chinese one to play with! :D


(i'm soldering since mid 80s, and i used the "bare copper" tip on a particular iron i used, and with my usage (which is by no means daily) it lasted surely more than 10-15 years.
infact i only heard about the fact that tips have iron on the internet, and i got online sometime in 2000.
if you ask me if there's a choice between ditching the oxidized tip and sanding it to reach copper and make it usefull again, what do you think i would do? ;) )

as for original poster, i think he just discovered one needs to clean the tip, and yes, 40hrs without cleaning it, and tip must look brownish...but it's not destroyed or in need of refurbishing with such things as "tip reactivator" etc.

What I've done for the last couple of days have been to apply a coat of solder to the tip at the end of the day and also do it from time to time during my soldering sessions.
yes, but also clean it from time to time..for example at the end of the day.
just use sponge (they're called cellulose sponges, they look pretty small dry but grow once moist), ie touch damp sponge with hot tip untill it looks shiny...
mentioned tangle of wires should work too.
buy those anywhere electronics are sold...
 
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