This is probably the best "one bit" out there for speakers builders - the bearing (top & bottom) lets you copy, flush, etc, from top or bottom. And it just works beautifully!!
Down Shear Trim Router Bits with Upper Ball Bearing by Amana Tool
Fun Fact: If you need a custom bit, there are places that will make you what you need. I've had a few made, the cost is about double to a similar in stock size, manufactured bit.
Down Shear Trim Router Bits with Upper Ball Bearing by Amana Tool
Fun Fact: If you need a custom bit, there are places that will make you what you need. I've had a few made, the cost is about double to a similar in stock size, manufactured bit.
Of course, if you're looking for "the one and only bit to have in your workshop", this one won't plunge or route a groove - but it looks like a great idea to replace half a dozen flush trim bits! I've been pleased with Amana router bits and saw blades, though I think I always got them on sale or promotions.
I have a spiral-flute straight bit (don't recall the mfgr) that makes very smooth cuts. I've lusted to try one of these dual-bearing bits but haven't had an opportunity yet. Being able to pilot against either an upper or lower pattern reduces the time and effort to plan your work.
The retail price of this bit seems to be in the $40 - $50 range, which underscores an important fact about routers: the half-dozen or so "essential" bits you'll need to really use the tool will probably cost as much, or more, than a decent router itself. (When my wife figured this out, she made another entry on the list of "Things My NEXT Husband Won't Do".) I'm surprised that none of the tool vendors has ever offered a package of a decent basic router plus an assortment of basic bits.
Custom bit profiles are only about double the cost of standard profiles? That DOES surprise me - I would have expected a much greater difference. Do you have to submit the profile as a CAD/CAM file, or will they work from paper sketches?
Dale
I have a spiral-flute straight bit (don't recall the mfgr) that makes very smooth cuts. I've lusted to try one of these dual-bearing bits but haven't had an opportunity yet. Being able to pilot against either an upper or lower pattern reduces the time and effort to plan your work.
The retail price of this bit seems to be in the $40 - $50 range, which underscores an important fact about routers: the half-dozen or so "essential" bits you'll need to really use the tool will probably cost as much, or more, than a decent router itself. (When my wife figured this out, she made another entry on the list of "Things My NEXT Husband Won't Do".) I'm surprised that none of the tool vendors has ever offered a package of a decent basic router plus an assortment of basic bits.
Custom bit profiles are only about double the cost of standard profiles? That DOES surprise me - I would have expected a much greater difference. Do you have to submit the profile as a CAD/CAM file, or will they work from paper sketches?
Dale
Didn't throw router into Potomac, actually with a new jumbo plate it was working beautifully. The lager plate works well for woofer "holes" and it won't dip and ruin the work piece .
The 12" disk/base could also be used for cutting 12" woofer holes.
Used that $40 Amana bit, again I find it a joy to use
The 12" disk/base could also be used for cutting 12" woofer holes.
Used that $40 Amana bit, again I find it a joy to use
Attachments
Last edited:
Just tossing in some issues folks may want to consider. I have the Rigid plunge/fixed kit. When mounted in my table, I was having great difficulty getting it to keep the depth setting as I clamped it down. When the band is loose, it hags from a pin on one side of the router, so when you clamp it tight, it moves. I went over to the big orange store to see how others are made. Several are very close in design, but actually worse in the amount of slop. ( Dewalt Skill). PC uses a twist ring, but it did not seem that easy to get it set to the .001 level. Ironic, my old cheap 1/4 Sears has a twist ring with much finer threads and is real easy to set. It seems to hold setting when you clamp it tight. Another feature it has is a power switch that was also a spindle lock and safety disconnect. All in all, it has been a great light duty router. I am not sure what the sell now. This one is 30 years old.
So what to do? Save up for a expensive lift plate why I struggle with set, measure and reset. Sigh. It costs as much as a pair of ScanSpeak tweeters.
So what to do? Save up for a expensive lift plate why I struggle with set, measure and reset. Sigh. It costs as much as a pair of ScanSpeak tweeters.
Now that's an idea. Get a bit made with a nice flair profile for doing port ends! 1" radius shroud work. It could also work for doing small tweeter horn flairs and relieving behind drivers.
Back to square one, and once again in the market for a fixed/plunge router.
The Bosch MRC23EVSK had a electronic hiccup. Started up and shut itself off within seconds of start up, led lighted base remained lit. Switched bases no difference. Had to unplug and plug in the power cord between start ups or nothing at all. Then it mysteriously began to function properly again after changing the speed control settings.
Bosch said they had a few sent in for service for the same problem which only required the contact tracks between the base(s) and motor unit to be cleaned off. Mine were spotless clean! I haven't even put eight hours of use on the thing. They tried to convince me the shut down at start up is a safety feature, yeah right. The rep kept telling me they make a model without the fancy electronics, it's the model a few here had recommended.
For my purpose this trigger on the handle unit with the hiccup i experienced is unacceptable!
It was still under warranty however it's a tool i may use twice a year at most and i'm not about to wait for it to go on the fritz again a few years out of warranty. I returned it.
Thank goodness for the big box stores being more concerned that they have a happy customer.
The Bosch MRC23EVSK had a electronic hiccup. Started up and shut itself off within seconds of start up, led lighted base remained lit. Switched bases no difference. Had to unplug and plug in the power cord between start ups or nothing at all. Then it mysteriously began to function properly again after changing the speed control settings.
Bosch said they had a few sent in for service for the same problem which only required the contact tracks between the base(s) and motor unit to be cleaned off. Mine were spotless clean! I haven't even put eight hours of use on the thing. They tried to convince me the shut down at start up is a safety feature, yeah right. The rep kept telling me they make a model without the fancy electronics, it's the model a few here had recommended.
For my purpose this trigger on the handle unit with the hiccup i experienced is unacceptable!
It was still under warranty however it's a tool i may use twice a year at most and i'm not about to wait for it to go on the fritz again a few years out of warranty. I returned it.
Thank goodness for the big box stores being more concerned that they have a happy customer.
Yeah it is too bad and it's enough for me not to want to be bothered with the product.
I picked up the Ridgid/plunge base today. Not thrilled about the push button collet lock for one wrench removal. Also skeptical of the 1/4" collet insert which goes into the 1/2" collet insert, seems like a cheep solution that will likely get jammed and become a pita. Not so sure i'm gonna keep it. RIDGID Fixed Base Router-R22002 at The Home Depot
I picked up the Ridgid/plunge base today. Not thrilled about the push button collet lock for one wrench removal. Also skeptical of the 1/4" collet insert which goes into the 1/2" collet insert, seems like a cheep solution that will likely get jammed and become a pita. Not so sure i'm gonna keep it. RIDGID Fixed Base Router-R22002 at The Home Depot
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.