Has anyone ever seen a specialty router bit for routing the inset edge on a speaker? (So that it will lay flush with the baffle).
I've made circle jigs and a straight or mortise bit to do it in the past, but it sure would be nice if something existed that has a roller on the bottom like a trim bit.
Obviously the roller would have to be a smaller diameter than the bit itself so the bit would cut into the material.
Such an animal exist?
Thanks.
I've made circle jigs and a straight or mortise bit to do it in the past, but it sure would be nice if something existed that has a roller on the bottom like a trim bit.
Obviously the roller would have to be a smaller diameter than the bit itself so the bit would cut into the material.
Such an animal exist?
Thanks.
The guide bearings on many (not all) rabbeting, flush-trim, and slot bits can be exchanged for a bearing with larger or smaller O.D. This allows you to cut a wider or narrower "shelf" as needed. Some of the router-bit vendors will even sell a kit containing several bearing sizes
(My apologies if you already know this; folks who are new to routers may find it useful if they stumble across this thread.)
Dale
(My apologies if you already know this; folks who are new to routers may find it useful if they stumble across this thread.)
Dale
Backwards
Use a micro-fence or equivalent circle jig with your router.
Cut a wide, flat groove first (multi-pass), then cut the hole last (deeper cut).
Circle Jig Attachment Use w/ Edge-Guide - CJA - Micro Fence -
Regards,
WHG
Use a micro-fence or equivalent circle jig with your router.
Cut a wide, flat groove first (multi-pass), then cut the hole last (deeper cut).
Circle Jig Attachment Use w/ Edge-Guide - CJA - Micro Fence -
Regards,
WHG
Depending on what router you have, you should be able to make a separate base plate for your router if you need a smaller diamater cut. I've done it both for my Milwaukee and a craftman router and it works great. Then you can just drill holes in your "new" baseplate and use a small drill bit or a nail for a center pin. A piece of plywood or MDF works great for a baseplate ..
I use a Jasper circle jig. Works great, no problem making holes for tweeters with diameter smaller than base plate. Jasper Circle Jigs
Trouble is, you need to cut a circle first. If you are going to use a router, you will need some kind of circle cutting jig. If you use a jig for the hole, you can use it for the recess too.
The most critical cut is for the rebate for the outer edge of the speaker, as too big a cut leaves a gap around the speaker. Cut this first, and reference the hole to that critical cut. Doing it the other way (cut hole then rebate with a rabbit bit) leaves more room for mistakes (in my opinion).
In short, if you buy or make a circle jig, you won't need a rebate or rabbit bit.
Cheers,
Chris
The most critical cut is for the rebate for the outer edge of the speaker, as too big a cut leaves a gap around the speaker. Cut this first, and reference the hole to that critical cut. Doing it the other way (cut hole then rebate with a rabbit bit) leaves more room for mistakes (in my opinion).
In short, if you buy or make a circle jig, you won't need a rebate or rabbit bit.
Cheers,
Chris
Has anybody tried stacking these slot cutters on top of a straight, or rabbett, bit - so you could cut both the aperture and the lip in a single pass?
Dale
I picked up one of these to $50 bucks at a woodworking show. What’s nice about all the bearings is the wide range of cuts you can make.
http://www.woodline.com/p-2493-14pc-rabbeting-bit-set.aspx
They also have a full page of other rabbeting bits
So say you cut a speaker hole too small OR it’s a retrofit, you can use one of the larger bearings and make the hole slightly bigger, you’ll have to leave a lip at the bottom of the hole (or you’ll have a real mess), but the lip can be removed with a flush cut bit (bearing on the top).
http://www.woodline.com/p-2493-14pc-rabbeting-bit-set.aspx
They also have a full page of other rabbeting bits
So say you cut a speaker hole too small OR it’s a retrofit, you can use one of the larger bearings and make the hole slightly bigger, you’ll have to leave a lip at the bottom of the hole (or you’ll have a real mess), but the lip can be removed with a flush cut bit (bearing on the top).
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