Hey there,
I've got a Tyco Pro-Crimper II that I bought to crimp the standard red/blue/yellow insulated crimp terminals. I'm having real trouble getting a secure crimp - so far I've only used the red terminals.
Once crimped I can easily pull the terminal off the wire. Is this expected or should the joint be fairly secure?
Thanks.
I've got a Tyco Pro-Crimper II that I bought to crimp the standard red/blue/yellow insulated crimp terminals. I'm having real trouble getting a secure crimp - so far I've only used the red terminals.
Once crimped I can easily pull the terminal off the wire. Is this expected or should the joint be fairly secure?
Thanks.
I have a crimper that has spots for insulated and non-insulated terminals. The non-insulated is the only one that works worth a darn. It puts a divot in the terminal. The insulated crimper just mashes the terminal flat. The wires always pull out.
So now I use the more aggressive divot crimp and haven't looked back. It does not hurt the plastic insulation.
So now I use the more aggressive divot crimp and haven't looked back. It does not hurt the plastic insulation.
That crimper works great, as does the T&B insulated crimper. At a prior company, we had performed extensive pull tests on insulated crimp lugs. The Amp (Tyco) lugs and tooling was far and above the best, with Panduit way at the bottom.
I suspect you are doing something wrong. Sounds like you are using the B die for a red lug. There is also a force adjustment on these, so you can set the amount of pressure desired. Might want to play with that, but I've found as they come set out of the box they are good to go.
I suspect you are doing something wrong. Sounds like you are using the B die for a red lug. There is also a force adjustment on these, so you can set the amount of pressure desired. Might want to play with that, but I've found as they come set out of the box they are good to go.
zigzag, it's interesting that you've had a different experience so it's quite possible that I'm doing something wrong.
The only thing I can think of so far is that the terminals I'm using aren't of a very good quality. I'm using some generic ones that I got in a kit rather than the Tyco own brand ones. Could that be a problem? I have the Tyco brand ones on order.
So far I'm confident that I can put the red terminal in the slot marked 'R'.
I have also made sure I have a correct gauge wire and have even tried using a thicker gauge one.
I've also experimented with changing the cam settings.
So far my tests have been hit and miss. I've just tried about 10 crimps and half have failed though I have to say some are really strong and I'd be happy using them. It's the hit and miss I'm worried about.
But thanks for your comments. I'll continue to test and see if I can work out what I'm doing wrong with the failed crimps.
Cheers.
The only thing I can think of so far is that the terminals I'm using aren't of a very good quality. I'm using some generic ones that I got in a kit rather than the Tyco own brand ones. Could that be a problem? I have the Tyco brand ones on order.
So far I'm confident that I can put the red terminal in the slot marked 'R'.
I have also made sure I have a correct gauge wire and have even tried using a thicker gauge one.I've also experimented with changing the cam settings.
So far my tests have been hit and miss. I've just tried about 10 crimps and half have failed though I have to say some are really strong and I'd be happy using them. It's the hit and miss I'm worried about.
But thanks for your comments. I'll continue to test and see if I can work out what I'm doing wrong with the failed crimps.
Cheers.
OK, a quick update. I've just done a load more testing and it seems that the failures are isolated to a single style of terminal which suggests the problem is with the way the terminal is manufactured.
If I try a ring or spade terminal it works fine but if I try the female receptacle type it always fails.
Looking at the construction of the two varieties, the female receptacle has a side wall where the others don't. I'm guessing this strengthens the terminal where it is crimped preventing a clean crimp.
When I crimp the spade/ring terminal it gets pressed into the die so that I have to lever it out following a completed crimp. With the female terminal it doesn't get squashed enough to stick in the die and just comes clean out when I release the spring grip.
Does that make sense to people? Do I just have a poorly designed terminal or are they all like that?
If I try a ring or spade terminal it works fine but if I try the female receptacle type it always fails.
Looking at the construction of the two varieties, the female receptacle has a side wall where the others don't. I'm guessing this strengthens the terminal where it is crimped preventing a clean crimp.
When I crimp the spade/ring terminal it gets pressed into the die so that I have to lever it out following a completed crimp. With the female terminal it doesn't get squashed enough to stick in the die and just comes clean out when I release the spring grip.
Does that make sense to people? Do I just have a poorly designed terminal or are they all like that?
Hmmm, it seems that Tyco differentiate between a PIDG terminal and a FASTON terminal, the latter of which is the same style as the terminal that always fails to crimp.
The Pro Crimper die guide states that the die I have bought is only suitable for the PIDG and PLASTI-GRIP terminals - which include the spade, ring and splice terminals - but is not suitable for the female receptacle style. The FASTON terminals require a specific crimper that costs $2500! LOLs
The Pro Crimper die guide states that the die I have bought is only suitable for the PIDG and PLASTI-GRIP terminals - which include the spade, ring and splice terminals - but is not suitable for the female receptacle style. The FASTON terminals require a specific crimper that costs $2500! LOLs
I finally broke down and bought a quality crimp tool from Digikey. I paid $40 for it.... It has the ratchet in the handle that won't allow the handle to open until the crimping action is complete. That thing is worth every penny. I use no-name terminals that I get at my FLAPS (Friendly Local Auto Parts Supplier). As long as I use the appropriate size wire with the appropriate size terminal, everything works really well.
The divot crimpers are even better. They leave a divot in the metal that really locks the wires in place. For the connectors that are rolled as Brian describes, put the divot in the area without the seam.
In either case, use a ratcheting tool.
~Tom
The divot crimpers are even better. They leave a divot in the metal that really locks the wires in place. For the connectors that are rolled as Brian describes, put the divot in the area without the seam.
In either case, use a ratcheting tool.
~Tom
BAH !
Just use your PIDG crimper, and it will be just fine. Can't beat the PIDG, but yes, it has a limited offering.
There are two brands of pro-grade non-ratchet quality crimp tool, in my experience. One, no surprise, is Klein. The other is Ideal. I/ve never worked with any other that was as good. First quality terminals, in my experience, are Thomas & Betts, Ideal, Panduit. Second rank 3M. Third rank made in Taiwan ones sold by various auto supplies and Dorman. Fourth rank, Made in ***** ones from R***** S***** and other vendors and auto supplies. The dorman's yellow splices wont even go around a real 10 ga wire, so quality falls fast, although they do hold okay. I've never used Tyco brand, no opinion on those. If it pulls off, it is wrong. The package should tell you which size wire goes in which color terminal.
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Here is an example.
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Here is what it looks like with the jacket removed. The barrel is continuous, no seam.
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For those that are using a crimp tool that puts a dimple in the crimp, that is only for non insulated connectors. The squeeze type that closes the barrel around the wire is the only type that should be used on insulated connectors. Using the non insulated crimp tool on insulated connectors breaches the jacket. This is usually found on cheap tools too.
Purchase a ratcheting type crimper for insulated connectors. These have a wider die and require a full cycle of the tool for the proper crimp. The tool will not open until it has been squeezed through its full cycle. A good crimper and connectors will make fast, strong, reliable connections that will not pull or fall off from tension or vibration.
Ratcheting crimper for insulated connectors
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Crimper for non insulated connectors
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Pure garbage. Throw this type away.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
OK, just to reiterate, I have a ratchet style crimp tool. It wasn't cheap which is why I thought it might do the job.
However, the terminal I'm after seems to be the Tyco 140805-2 and is supported by the die set I have. The tool I mentioned earlier for $2K+ is for the crimps that support thicker gauge wire. However, I can't source this terminal anywhere in the UK. Nice.
And if you ever decide to try and use the Tyco Live Chat service - don't bother, just go outside and throw yourself off your roof. It'll be a much more pleasurable use of your time.
Back to searching.
Oh, and thanks a lot for all your input. I'll report back once I've tried some more terminals from different manufacturers.
However, the terminal I'm after seems to be the Tyco 140805-2 and is supported by the die set I have. The tool I mentioned earlier for $2K+ is for the crimps that support thicker gauge wire. However, I can't source this terminal anywhere in the UK. Nice.
And if you ever decide to try and use the Tyco Live Chat service - don't bother, just go outside and throw yourself off your roof. It'll be a much more pleasurable use of your time.
Back to searching.
Oh, and thanks a lot for all your input. I'll report back once I've tried some more terminals from different manufacturers.
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