Proper solder for electronics is not lead free and not silver. I use Autosol RA 2% flux 0.7mm from Warton Metals Solders, Cored Solder Wire, Solderpastes, Fluxes, Rosin Free Solders and Lead-Free Solders you can buy in small quantity or a reel.
there is nothing wrong with including silver in the solder.Thanks for the information, I will look into it. I think it was threads on the net that led me toward silver solder in the first place... You can read and read, but in the end you just have to have a go and find out the hard way I guess.
Even better is including copper like the savbit, but whether it's copper and/or silver try to find a true eutectic.
Inside the EU, that's all you can get (legally). It's a PITA to work with. I have to get another solder station because the one I got initially doesn't get hot enough.
Bonus question for the thread - is it a bad idea to mix lead and lead-free solders? IE using lead-free to service a leaded solder board?
leaded solder is not illegal, nor is it illegal to sell it and finally it is not illegal to use it.
If you need to declare your product Rohs compliant then there are rules to follow. If you don't need to be Rohs compliant then those rules do not apply.
I believe one of our solder experts (John?) said it is a very bad practice to mix solders.
If you need to declare your product Rohs compliant then there are rules to follow. If you don't need to be Rohs compliant then those rules do not apply.
I believe one of our solder experts (John?) said it is a very bad practice to mix solders.
Amazed at how complicated solder can get...
I have spent hours finding out what I can about solder. I thought it was the silver or non-silver lead free stuff from Maplins, how wrong can you be?
I found out that lead free is only compulsory (presumably to commercial repairs) in repairs to products post 2006 sometime, and new commercial production (sorry for the vagueness). Us DIYers are free to use tin/lead/fluffy dog in any proportion you can find and care to play with. I found an interesting article:
http://www.dklmetals.co.uk/PDF Files/Factorfiction.pdf
Apologise if that doesn't work as a link, never done this before, but I found it interesting reading regarding eutectic and ingredients, and especially the corrosive action of silver on the soldering equipment as I struggle to keep my tips shiny despite doing what I am supposed to.
In the end I found solder at Farnell, a few to experiment with, there is so much choice I was losing the will to live, the only eutectic they sell is lead free with a high melting point, but I'm going to try it, I cannot find 63/37 tin/lead in the UK it's all in the US and it seems like a big - to me - import levy. So I have some Savbit and some cheap 60/40 as well.
Now to find some things to experiment on.
I have spent hours finding out what I can about solder. I thought it was the silver or non-silver lead free stuff from Maplins, how wrong can you be?
I found out that lead free is only compulsory (presumably to commercial repairs) in repairs to products post 2006 sometime, and new commercial production (sorry for the vagueness). Us DIYers are free to use tin/lead/fluffy dog in any proportion you can find and care to play with. I found an interesting article:
http://www.dklmetals.co.uk/PDF Files/Factorfiction.pdf
Apologise if that doesn't work as a link, never done this before, but I found it interesting reading regarding eutectic and ingredients, and especially the corrosive action of silver on the soldering equipment as I struggle to keep my tips shiny despite doing what I am supposed to.
In the end I found solder at Farnell, a few to experiment with, there is so much choice I was losing the will to live, the only eutectic they sell is lead free with a high melting point, but I'm going to try it, I cannot find 63/37 tin/lead in the UK it's all in the US and it seems like a big - to me - import levy. So I have some Savbit and some cheap 60/40 as well.
Now to find some things to experiment on.
OK, admit fallibility. I read your post and it was the first place I went to look, but as I said I continued looking and got mind boggled. The article did put me off, but also made me think I hadn't done to badly so far with my rubbish solder. the new lower melting point stuff is definitely friendlier. Will try your recommendation next, and thanks.
Interesting; my iron tips always dissolve like sugar cubes in hot water.
I use silver bearing solder exclusively and have always blamed the tip damage on the flux. No way would I ever switch to standard tin/lead solder though, this silver stuff makes beautiful joints.
I think your solder/soldering looks pretty good too, I only bought tiny amounts of the other stuff to experiment with the differences, your solder is next on the list to try. I'm not exactly doing anything critical right now so it's just 'fun'. Is that sad.
Interesting that your tip has lasted years, I think this is one of the most relevant points. Getting a new camera for Christmas so maybe I'll learn how to upload a photo one day!
Interesting that your tip has lasted years, I think this is one of the most relevant points. Getting a new camera for Christmas so maybe I'll learn how to upload a photo one day!
35 posts you still left me room for the 3 principles of good soldering...
1. Cleanliness
2. Cleanliness
3. Cleanliness
You can solder most anything metal but you need the right flux and sometimes you need to abrade the surface immediately before soldering. Sometimes you need a specialist solder.
w
1. Cleanliness
2. Cleanliness
3. Cleanliness
You can solder most anything metal but you need the right flux and sometimes you need to abrade the surface immediately before soldering. Sometimes you need a specialist solder.
w
Sn63 Pb37, Weller WESD51 Tip Temperature for 2.54mm Vero PCB ( Pin Through Hole )
Whoever is interested in low temperature settings :
I have just used Sn63 Pb37 with Weller WESD51 and 2.54mm Vero PCB ( Pin Through Hole ).
The solder melts well enough to tin the tip at 204. However, this will not be sufficient to heat the component wire and the track all around the hole.
I put the tip on one side of the hole and the tip touches the wire as well as this side of the hole but not the other.
I use high quality paste which boils at PROBABLY low temperature, yet, slowly.
So, I touch the lead and one side of the whole with the tip. The paste begins to boil. As the paste boils, I touch the tip with solder just a tiny bit. AFTER most of the paste boils out ( evaporates ), I touch the OTHER side of the whole ( where the tip does NOT touch ) with the solder. The solder begins to melt and makes a good point on the TWO sides of the hole : very evenly.
The tip temperature is at :
250 degrees Celsius.
Takes 2 to 4 seconds.
240 degrees Celsius also works. Lower may also work but more difficult and may need to wait longer.
This is for normal Vero boards, 2.54mm pin through hole and for standard components such as resistors, signal transistors, signal diodes, ceramic capacitors, thin bare wire, etcetera. Obviously, thick electrolytic capacitor wires, heavy power supply wires, power transistors, huge diodes, etcetera, may need more, although this arrangement may work just fine.
Whoever is interested in low temperature settings :
I have just used Sn63 Pb37 with Weller WESD51 and 2.54mm Vero PCB ( Pin Through Hole ).
The solder melts well enough to tin the tip at 204. However, this will not be sufficient to heat the component wire and the track all around the hole.
I put the tip on one side of the hole and the tip touches the wire as well as this side of the hole but not the other.
I use high quality paste which boils at PROBABLY low temperature, yet, slowly.
So, I touch the lead and one side of the whole with the tip. The paste begins to boil. As the paste boils, I touch the tip with solder just a tiny bit. AFTER most of the paste boils out ( evaporates ), I touch the OTHER side of the whole ( where the tip does NOT touch ) with the solder. The solder begins to melt and makes a good point on the TWO sides of the hole : very evenly.
The tip temperature is at :
250 degrees Celsius.
Takes 2 to 4 seconds.
240 degrees Celsius also works. Lower may also work but more difficult and may need to wait longer.
This is for normal Vero boards, 2.54mm pin through hole and for standard components such as resistors, signal transistors, signal diodes, ceramic capacitors, thin bare wire, etcetera. Obviously, thick electrolytic capacitor wires, heavy power supply wires, power transistors, huge diodes, etcetera, may need more, although this arrangement may work just fine.
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.