The surgical pneumatic motor has a single piece chuck of about 3mm. A drill bit has broken and its end has remained inside. I tried banging the end on a rubber piece in order to force it out. It moves forward but not enough and stays inside at about 3-4 mm from the front end. The 3 slits on the chuck are very narrow and the bit cannot be pushed out by using a scalpel.
Any ideas....please.
Gajanan Phadte
Any ideas....please.
Gajanan Phadte
Heat is often used to expand one piece of a tight-fitting arrangement, so you might try and heat up the chuck and see if this loosens things up enough to let the bit come out. Some silicone lubricant might help.
Also, there are things thinner than a scalpel blade. Some shim stock (side of a beer can?) or a feeler gauge cut into a small, sharp piece might work.
If it is not stuck too badly, it might be possible to glue the other end of the drill bit back onto the base with a tiny dot of super glue (cyanoacrylate) or epoxy--take care that there's not enough glue to ooze out and attach both parts to the chuck.
Worst case, you might have to use a Dremel-tool with a diamond burr bit and grind a hollow into the end of the bit to allow a wire to be wedged or glued into it as a handle to pull it out.
One way or anoher...good luck.
--Buckapound
Also, there are things thinner than a scalpel blade. Some shim stock (side of a beer can?) or a feeler gauge cut into a small, sharp piece might work.
If it is not stuck too badly, it might be possible to glue the other end of the drill bit back onto the base with a tiny dot of super glue (cyanoacrylate) or epoxy--take care that there's not enough glue to ooze out and attach both parts to the chuck.
Worst case, you might have to use a Dremel-tool with a diamond burr bit and grind a hollow into the end of the bit to allow a wire to be wedged or glued into it as a handle to pull it out.
One way or anoher...good luck.
--Buckapound
Maybe the slots are wide enough for a piece of .002" or so brass or stainless steel shim stock. Possibly take apart an old disk drive and salvage the ultra-powerful magnets, then use one of those to encourage the bit out. Tape around the front of the collet and use compressed air around the base of the slots to blow the bit out (aim carefully). Charge up a big low voltage capacitor and connect one end to the (closed!) collet. Connect the other end to a piece of steel wire. Touch the wire to the end of the bit, welding it there. Pull the wire, and the bit, out. Put the collet end of the tool in a strong ultrasonic cleaner- maybe it will fall out. Buy new tool! 
Tade wrote
No, it is steel.
Buckapound wrote
I will try this
Conrad Hoffman wrote
The end of the bit remains behind the slots and the pushing becomes difficult.
The surrounding metal is also magnetic, I tried the magnet and the bit didn't budge.
Capacitor method is very good and I will give it a try. I will have to be careful not to weld the bit to the chuck in doing so.
This will be tried first.
Thanks to u all
Gajanan Phadte
No, it is steel.
Buckapound wrote
I will try this
Conrad Hoffman wrote
The end of the bit remains behind the slots and the pushing becomes difficult.
The surrounding metal is also magnetic, I tried the magnet and the bit didn't budge.
Capacitor method is very good and I will give it a try. I will have to be careful not to weld the bit to the chuck in doing so.
This will be tried first.
Thanks to u all
Gajanan Phadte
Broken Drill Bit
If the drill bit is of reasonable diameter you might consider tightening up the chuck and drilling into the stub with a smaller diameter drill. Most steel bits are hardened only at the end, so the shank is reasonably soft and can be drilled with HS steel. If you can drill a hole in the shank stub, then you can either glue in a wire and pull out the stub or tap the hole, insert a screw of the appropriate diameter, and pull out the stub.
I have used an arc welder to stick a welding rod onto a broken spline and pull it out that way. Similar to the capacitor trick, but with a more controlled curent source.
Good luck.
If the drill bit is of reasonable diameter you might consider tightening up the chuck and drilling into the stub with a smaller diameter drill. Most steel bits are hardened only at the end, so the shank is reasonably soft and can be drilled with HS steel. If you can drill a hole in the shank stub, then you can either glue in a wire and pull out the stub or tap the hole, insert a screw of the appropriate diameter, and pull out the stub.
I have used an arc welder to stick a welding rod onto a broken spline and pull it out that way. Similar to the capacitor trick, but with a more controlled curent source.
Good luck.
Conrad: Three ways I can see. The third way is the best, bringing the barometer to the building superintendent and telling him that he can have that nice, shiny, new barometer if he'll tell me how tall the building is.
That welding idea is pretty slick. I'd have to find someone with much younger eyes and hands to do it for me.
That welding idea is pretty slick. I'd have to find someone with much younger eyes and hands to do it for me.
One method I don't think I've seen published- the barometer probably has a nicely polished glass window to protect it. Move around until the sun is just next to the building and reflect it off the barometer window. Tilt the barometer until the reflected spot is on the base of the building. Now, move the spot up to the top of the building. Measure the angles of the barometer, and distance to the building, then calculate the height.
Broken Drillbit in Chuck
Hi gajanan
I'm afraid superglue will run everywhere you don't want it to go. Other than the neat tranny trick, shoving it out with a piece of shimstock sounds a better idea. How's about using the blade from an NT cutter to scrape it out? Recommended NT cutter model # A300. Is the chuck's collar captive?
IF the chuck was ally, you could have tried leaving it in some nitric acid for an hour or two. The acid will act quickly on the steel drillbit, leaving the ally not too chewed.
bulgin
Hi gajanan
I'm afraid superglue will run everywhere you don't want it to go. Other than the neat tranny trick, shoving it out with a piece of shimstock sounds a better idea. How's about using the blade from an NT cutter to scrape it out? Recommended NT cutter model # A300. Is the chuck's collar captive?
IF the chuck was ally, you could have tried leaving it in some nitric acid for an hour or two. The acid will act quickly on the steel drillbit, leaving the ally not too chewed.
bulgin
Using superglue would definitely be a risky process, as it will stick to unwanted places.
I have canada balsam, as a substitute to superglue, in mind, if cap discharge welding does not work. I will have to experiment on another drill bit to try its needs.
Presently, the chuck is not with me and it is Ganesh Chaturthi Festivities from tomorrow. It belongs to another institute few kms away.
The building height issue...
May be a gravity difference measurement between bottom and top should be easier, assuming that the gravitational force reduces as u go higher.
Have fun
Gajanan Phadte
I have canada balsam, as a substitute to superglue, in mind, if cap discharge welding does not work. I will have to experiment on another drill bit to try its needs.
Presently, the chuck is not with me and it is Ganesh Chaturthi Festivities from tomorrow. It belongs to another institute few kms away.
The building height issue...
May be a gravity difference measurement between bottom and top should be easier, assuming that the gravitational force reduces as u go higher.
Have fun
Gajanan Phadte
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