Elekit TU-879S 6L6GC

[vkung]

Originally Posted by rittb001

I just completed a tu-879 kit. One channel has about 25% of the output than the other. I switched output tubes and replaced the 12AX7 without benefit. Used input 1 and input 2 without change. Checked my computer soundcard outputs which feed the amp. No deal. Reversed the inputs and even switched the speakers which did nothing. No matter what I change, one channel is down about 6 dB. Before I start tearing my hair out and tearing the amp apart, anyone have an idea as to where to look?

Here are my suggestions:
1. check the PCB board step by step with the manual.
2. check your wiring (input 1 and 2)
3. swap the output tube
4. if you still have problem, e,ail or call me

Victor

[rittb001]

Turns out the input switch was defective. I thought I was going to need to replace it, but after numerous flips of the switch, the second channel came in fully. This was probably a one in a million defect.

I use my computer as a music media manager. Sound card is an M-Audio Audiophile 192. This feeds directly into the TU-879S and sounds great through a pair of Klipsch speakers. When people use different 12Ax7s or output tubes, are the results subtle or more clear cut? I'm trying to decide if it is worth it to me to invest in multiple output tubes.

Which will make a more noticeable impact on sound, new caps or different tubes?

[vkung]

Originally Posted by rittb001

.

Which will make a more noticeable impact on sound, new caps or different tubes?

It is eaier to do tube rolling...
It is worth to trial both.

[mboxler]

Sorry, but I'm a little confused. Is the Elekit TU-879S kit an amplifier or an integrated amplifier (do I need a pre-amp between the source and the amp)? It appears to be an integrated amp, but need clarification.

Thanks, Mike

[Gobble]

Attaching a pic of my current dilemma. I put this project on the back bench 3 months back when I realized I would never get the screw to properly insert into the RCA block without undue force. Vicktor told me to use "the right amount of pressure", but I was skeptical from the start as I knew the screw was already losing its groove while threading it in. Actually I was quiet fearful this would happen, so waited a few months for a brainwave to strike me about whether to use the m3x8mm screw or another size (then forgot about it for a few months).

So I went ahead yesterday deciding to complete it, now I am stuck with the results you see in the pic. Alas ...its totally jammed, the grooves are now worn out, and the Philips screw driver is of no use. the needle nose pliers is of no help. How do I get this unscrewed?

I need to attach this to the back plate of the chassis to complete the assembly, which means unscrewing it and screwing it back via the through hole of the chassis.

TIA
-G0bble

[Gobble]

Originally Posted by mboxler

Sorry, but I'm a little confused. Is the Elekit TU-879S kit an amplifier or an integrated amplifier (do I need a pre-amp between the source and the amp)? It appears to be an integrated amp, but need clarification.

Thanks, Mike

Its an Integrated. The 12AX7 is the preamp part with two RCA inputs.

HTH
--G0bble

[vkung]

Originally Posted by Gobble

Attaching a pic of my current dilemma. I put this project on the back bench 3 months back when I realized I would never get the screw to properly insert into the RCA block without undue force. Vicktor told me to use "the right amount of pressure", but I was skeptical from the start as I knew the screw was already losing its groove while threading it in. Actually I was quiet fearful this would happen, so waited a few months for a brainwave to strike me about whether to use the m3x8mm screw or another size (then forgot about it for a few months).

So I went ahead yesterday deciding to complete it, now I am stuck with the results you see in the pic. Alas ...its totally jammed, the grooves are now worn out, and the Philips screw driver is of no use. the needle nose pliers is of no help. How do I get this unscrewed?

I need to attach this to the back plate of the chassis to complete the assembly, which means unscrewing it and screwing it back via the through hole of the chassis.

TIA
-G0bble

I can order the replacement part for you. The part number is 4130352

Pleasse let me know..
Victor

[Gobble]

Originally Posted by vkung

I can order the replacement part for you. The part number is 4130352

Pleasse let me know..
Victor

You mean the 4P RCA block in plastic mould? Please do. Can you also put in a M3x12.5mm spacer nut for the JFET? I put in a replacement of a different size as I could not find it (I am certain it came originally, guess I lost it). but it being smaller I cannot screw in the m3x10mm screw from outside the chassis for heat radiation. How critical is this for the JFET? Or can I leave it as is?

PM me the details via email.

Thanks!

--G0bble

[vkung]

Originally Posted by Gobble

You mean the 4P RCA block in plastic mould? Please do. Can you also put in a M3x12.5mm spacer nut for the JFET? I put in a replacement of a different size as I could not find it (I am certain it came originally, guess I lost it). but it being smaller I cannot screw in the m3x10mm screw from outside the chassis for heat radiation. How critical is this for the JFET? Or can I leave it as is?

PM me the details via email.

Thanks!

--G0bble

i will let you know soon
please email your mailing address to me

[Gobble]

Ok, my friend reminded me that I have a dremel lying unused in my cupboard - one of those expensive fancy toys I dont know how to use really

Cutting a groove into the screw head for use with a regular flat blade screw driver however was easier and quicker than it takes to read a page on the internet.

I removed it!! Now I will finish the project in a couple of hours.


--G0bble